Richardtr3a Posted May 22, 2022 Report Share Posted May 22, 2022 I used two new Moss special nuts to fit the extension for wire wheel. on the rear RHS. The other two nuts were in good condition. I have a special tool for tightening these nuts and noticed that there was still a small amount of thread showing inside the nut, when they were fully tight, I checked the LHS and there was no small bit of thread showing. I measured the threaded studs without the extension in place and it was 1/16"longer than the RHS. The nuts tighten down well on both sides and I am sure that this does not become a problem. Please let me know if it is in any way needing some repair. Tomorrow I plan to bleed the rear brake fluid after fitting a new cylinder on the RHS. Thanks to Past Parts. Please let me know Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 22, 2022 Report Share Posted May 22, 2022 Put a bit of plasticine or blue tack on the offending studs/nuts. Fit the wire wheel properly. Remove wheel and look at the offending nut/stud. Is the blue tack or plasticine flattened but no bit of stud or nut is peeking through? If so it is good. If metal of the stud is shewing through, the stud needs reducing in length as it is touching the wire wheel spoke hub. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted May 23, 2022 Report Share Posted May 23, 2022 Richard, it sounds as though the RHS studs have been shortened a little too much. I have original factory wire wheel hubs and studs and the studs just protrude slightly, about 2mm, from the nut without fouling the hub. It is good engineering practice to have the full thread of a nut used, but as we are only talking about 1/16" here I would think it would be OK. There is a torque setting for the nuts holding the adapters on, and if you can achieve this there should be no problem. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2022 Thanks Peter. I was not clear enough in my original post. The thread that is just visible is not the stud but the last bit in the nut which is covered by the longer stud and exposed when fitted over the slightly shorter stud. The stud is not exposed on either side. Thanks for your fast reply. Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 23, 2022 Report Share Posted May 23, 2022 Hi Richard, remove the brake drum and measure ALL 8 studs. They should ALL be the same. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 23, 2022 Report Share Posted May 23, 2022 I would not trust the shorter studs if they do not at least end level with the nut. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 23, 2022 Report Share Posted May 23, 2022 (edited) Are all the double chamfered adaptor nuts the same thickness? Have you fitted new splined adaptors? Nuts measure 0.475” thick Original wire wheel studs measure 0.875” from flange to stud end. Are the brake drum, drive flange and spline adaptor faces all CLEAN. of paint? Edited May 23, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2022 I have just measured one chamfered nut on the RHS and it measures .502" and has a shine around the pointed end only and the rest of the chamfer looks like new. I can only measure the wire wheel studs in position by using a ruler I will be busy tomorrow making sure that it has no paint etc. Looks like no rain. Thanks Richard & B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2022 I have found my proper measuring callipers and I just measured all four chamfered nuts and they all measure 0.527" Tomorrow I will take off the brake drum and try to measure the studs. Thanks Richard & B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 23, 2022 Report Share Posted May 23, 2022 Based on both our measurements …Your double chamfer nuts are 0.050” thicker than the samples I have. The stud is 7/16x20 tpi unf thread. 20 tpi means one thread crest for every 1/20 of inch 1/20” is 0.050” So your studs will be one thread shy of the thickness of the nuts you have compared to those I have. I could swap you some thinner nuts? Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2022 Thanks very much for the offer. I am planning to check out the drum and paint today. If I have no improvement I would like to try one off your chamfered nuts. I will post this evening and let you know. Thanks Richard & B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2022 Thanks for the offer of a chamfered nut. Please could you send me just one so that I can try and see if it makes a reasonable difference.I think that you have my address but I will confirm it in a PM. When it arrives I will make with a small dash of red paint so that there is no confusion out in the garage. If it works we will need another 3 and I will post you my redundant 4. Thanks Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2022 Thanks for the new chamfered nuts. They make a difference and I think my problem is well solved. How tight should they be ? I do have a torque wrench which does not get much use. I have also found a plastic bag with a collection of old chamfered nuts, mostly damaged , which were used before I had the special socket for these nuts. Thanks very much Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted May 27, 2022 Report Share Posted May 27, 2022 (edited) Because there is not much of these chamfered nuts showing you need to use a very well fitting socket with a single Hex configuration rather than the standard multi point socket. Support the socket and nut with one hand pressing the socket over the nut and use one hand on the torque wrench. From memory these nuts go on at 45 lbs ft which you'll find looking inside your workshop manual. Mick Richards Edited May 27, 2022 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2022 Thanks Mick. I have the correct socket which was machined so that it sits fully over the nut. The front edge was made flat and works very well with no slipping off under pressure. The next job is to find the workshop manual. Thanks Richard & B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 27, 2022 Report Share Posted May 27, 2022 Do not bother posting the spare 4 nuts back to me, they are just going to be fishing weights as I do not have a wire wheel car. Glad they fixed your problem. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted May 27, 2022 Report Share Posted May 27, 2022 45-55 lbf.ft according to TR2/3 WSM. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2022 Thanks Ian Sunny day here so out to the garage, Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 27, 2022 Report Share Posted May 27, 2022 (edited) According to AKM3646 the Triumph service manual TR4-6 Wire wheel extended nuts are to 65 lbs ft Steel road wheel nuts are to 60 lbs ft TR6 (big chromey things) 80 lbs ft. Edited May 27, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 27, 2022 Report Share Posted May 27, 2022 Yes I always use 65lbsft Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2022 I spent the afternoon removing any old paint/primer from the relevant surfaces. A light sanding and two coats of Kurust. The wire wheel extension fits well and the new chamfered nuts fit over the studs so that there is no longer any problem there. Back on the road tomorrow. ( at last ) Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted May 28, 2022 Report Share Posted May 28, 2022 Just looking at Haynes manual again and it lists 65lbsft for Wire wheel adapter nuts ( TR3 Only), followed by " Hub extension nuts for wire wheels @ 65lbsft" Slightly confused as aren`t they one and the same thing ?, same torque anyway. But why TR3 only? , is that when the Girling axle was adopted? Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted May 28, 2022 Report Share Posted May 28, 2022 I use 65 ft-lbs and Loctite 270. I had an adapter come loose once and I don’t want it happening again. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 I have upgraded mine to 65 ft-lbs but no Loctite. Thanks Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted May 29, 2022 Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 On 5/28/2022 at 8:52 AM, Ralph Whitaker said: Just looking at Haynes manual again and it lists 65lbsft for Wire wheel adapter nuts ( TR3 Only), followed by " Hub extension nuts for wire wheels @ 65lbsft" Slightly confused as aren`t they one and the same thing ?, same torque anyway. But why TR3 only? , is that when the Girling axle was adopted? Ralph Just realised I was being an idiot, of course the TR2 with the Lockheed axle had the wire wheel extensions built in so there would not have been any nuts to torque up. DOH! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.