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Hi. I’m slowly putting my old 3a back together and yesterday I tried to remove the seized threaded end of the handbrake cable (which had already sheared) out of the clevis fork. After drilling and heating it my ‘easy out’ snapped off inside the fork. 
I don’t suppose anyone has a spare one of these knocking around on a shelf?

4E09F8B6-8B3C-4D6E-A0C5-865B143DA7BC.jpeg

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I couldn`t find one anywhere and ended up making one. I would heat that up red hot and let it cool down a couple of times and I bet it would unscrew.

Where are you based? If near me I could sort it for you.

Ralph

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Hi Graham,

if you Google  "Spark Erosion" you should find something near you.

It may also be possible that SE equipment suppliers may do little jobs as demo.

 

Roger

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Hello Graham,

Please do not show pictures that contain cans of “WD40” or mention the words “Easy-Out”, incase Motorsport Mickey reads the thread and comes to give you a lecture about how useless both items are. :ph34r:

 Charlie

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Hi Graham,

 just had another thought about your stuck 'Easy Out'.

Drill a 1/8" from the exposed end of the threaded section until you hit the Easy Out.

Open the hole as big as possible.

Then using a pin punch sat on the Easy Out  from this exposed end give it a good whack

 

Roger

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Or, heat the whole thing up & quench a couple of times, then hacksaw a slot across the exposed end (inside the fork, & try using a screwdriver to remove it

Bob

Edited by Lebro
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5 hours ago, Charlie D said:

Hello Graham,

Please do not show pictures that contain cans of “WD40” or mention the words “Easy-Out”, incase Motorsport Mickey reads the thread and comes to give you a lecture about how useless both items are. :ph34r:

 Charlie

Curses ! Beaten to the reply by Charlie (sob). As he so rightly points out I would bemoan the use of WD40 as an anti seize ( cats piss) which doesn’t work ( no lubricant qualities). Also the use of the misleadingly named “Easy out” which on every occasion I’ve heard of…doesn’t.
 

Damn you Easy out… damn you. That sinking feeling, as the highly aggressive taper on the left handed thread careers like a drunken sailor around the hole and then the slightest of resistance as it grabs. Then the explosion of super hard easy out as the stress riser on the top of the taper exceeds base material ductility  and you are left looking at a shattered harder than the hobs of hell stub in your work… damn them all. As Roger says depending upon individual cases it may be possible to use it’s own hardness against it. A smart crack with a hard drift against the edge where threaded form meets the base circle diameter can sometimes cause them to fracture, and you can deal out similar medicine to the other side. Let’s hope you have success.

But the mere fact that owners miss my copious postings on Easy outs ( spit) against the much superior fluted drive rod which actually works, shows that my work here is not yet done. Sweeping my voluminous cape over my shoulder…Hi Ho Silver… and away to the next Forum user who I can help.

Mick Richards

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Graham

 

This you tube vid shows the way I go about this sort of thing

Works for me

Chris

 

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On 5/14/2022 at 11:13 AM, Lebro said:

Or, heat the whole thing up & quench a couple of times, then hacksaw a slot across the exposed end (inside the fork, & try using a screwdriver to remove it

Bob

Yep, heat is the answer. Never fails.

Ralph

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On 5/14/2022 at 10:52 AM, RogerH said:

Hi Graham,

 just had another thought about your stuck 'Easy Out'.

Drill a 1/8" from the exposed end of the threaded section until you hit the Easy Out.

Open the hole as big as possible.

Then using a pin punch sat on the Easy Out  from this exposed end give it a good whack

 

Roger

Hi Roger that was what I also tried. I got a drill hole down the side but the beast wouldn’t budge. 
I will perhaps leave this one to more capable souls. 

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On 5/16/2022 at 7:36 AM, Bob Smith said:

Graham, I have a brand new Stanpart clevis fork 101247 if you or any one else needs it.

Thanks Bob. Another member came to the rescue so I now have a working item. Thank you so much for your kind offer though. 

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On 5/14/2022 at 4:08 PM, Motorsport Mickey said:

Curses ! Beaten to the reply by Charlie (sob). As he so rightly points out I would bemoan the use of WD40 as an anti seize ( cats piss) which doesn’t work ( no lubricant qualities). Also the use of the misleadingly named “Easy out” which on every occasion I’ve heard of…doesn’t.
 

Damn you Easy out… damn you. That sinking feeling, as the highly aggressive taper on the left handed thread careers like a drunken sailor around the hole and then the slightest of resistance as it grabs. Then the explosion of super hard easy out as the stress riser on the top of the taper exceeds base material ductility  and you are left looking at a shattered harder than the hobs of hell stub in your work… damn them all. As Roger says depending upon individual cases it may be possible to use it’s own hardness against it. A smart crack with a hard drift against the edge where threaded form meets the base circle diameter can sometimes cause them to fracture, and you can deal out similar medicine to the other side. Let’s hope you have success.

But the mere fact that owners miss my copious postings on Easy outs ( spit) against the much superior fluted drive rod which actually works, shows that my work here is not yet done. Sweeping my voluminous cape over my shoulder…Hi Ho Silver… and away to the next Forum user who I can help.

Mick Richards

FYI I wasn’t using WD as a penetration spray I was using it as a lubricant for drilling. Thanks Mick I’m off to research fluted drive rods. 
graham

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14 minutes ago, Graham Baggaley said:

FYI I wasn’t using WD as a penetration spray I was using it as a lubricant for drilling.

It's not much good for that either. :rolleyes:

 

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