Dady Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 I am new to the marque and have only recently acquired my 4a. It’s stunning, and after visiting a local classic car show, I washed off the mud and then discovered the lake in the drivers footwell!! The dealer I bought from suggested that this is common on TRs! (Where have I heard that before?) . Anyway, I’m calling out to those who know best, to ask what have you done to sort/reduce this ‘known’ problem? David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 Hi David, I wouldn;t suggest that puddles are common but they can occur. Look at the seal that holds the windscreen in the steel frame. The frame seal where it sits against the body should also be sealed. Also look along the front edge of the door glass. Water can get around it and then flow downwards and along the lower flange of the dash metal work. The top of the windscreen capping has at least to large holes that should have rubber plugs. Make sure they are fitted. Also on top of the windscreen is the brightwork capping. This should be sealed between the capping and the frame. Otherwise water can get underneath and then into the frame (it is hollow) - it can then leak out the bottom and drip on the floor. It will also make the frame rotten. Good luck Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trchris Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 Hi David Rogers covered most of the main problem areas the best way is to sit in the car and get a willing helper to use the hose and armed with a torch go looking mind you you will need to be a bit flexible its best to sit in the opposite side to which you are looking at Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dady Posted August 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 Roger/Chris, many thanks for your very prompt replies. I don’t suppose either of you guys can recommend a suitable sealant. I was considering Captain Tolley, although not used it before. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trchris Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 David The windscreen frame to body seal you need to use a non setting sealant and you will possibly need to lift the frame slight to apply properly I would check first the ingress areas before getting any sealer Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 I think you will need something a bit thicker than that. Captain Tolley is great for re-sealing windows on boats etc, but is as thin as water, & not really suitable for cars. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 If the vent flap is open or not sealing, water can enter the plenum chamber which runs from left to right across the bulkhead. In the corner of the chamber, at each end of the bulkhead, there's a metal tube pointing downwards which feeds via rubber tube (650308, AJ19 in the Workshop Manual) into the inside of the bodywork - Triumph's method of guaranteeing that the body will rot from the inside as well as the outside. If the rubber comes loose, rots or has become blocked, water will find its way out elsewhere! Many cars will have had holes drilled for items which may no longer be present, and these holes , if on the bulkhead, may discharge onto the floor. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 2 hours ago, Dady said: Roger/Chris, many thanks for your very prompt replies. I don’t suppose either of you guys can recommend a suitable sealant. I was considering Captain Tolley, although not used it before. David I used Captain Tolley to reseal my tr6’s windscreen and it worked well but took a few applications CT expands upon drying which is how it works, the thin liquid creeps into small cracks then expands to seal them as it dries. steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 Ivor88 swore by Capt. Tolley. Most of the dedicated window seal sealants should do a good job SEALANT Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ANFRUSSELL Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 Another vote for Captain Tolley here - I used it to stop an annoying leak from the top on the windscreen on my 4A - It would only leak in torrentail rain but as Steve says a few applications of Tolleys over a couple of days seems to have done the trick and was very very easy to apply. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 15 hours ago, ianc said: If the vent flap is open or not sealing, water can enter the plenum chamber which runs from left to right across the bulkhead. In the corner of the chamber, at each end of the bulkhead, there's a metal tube pointing downwards which feeds via rubber tube (650308, AJ19 in the Workshop Manual) into the inside of the bodywork - Triumph's method of guaranteeing that the body will rot from the inside as well as the outside. If the rubber comes loose, rots or has become blocked, water will find its way out elsewhere! Many cars will have had holes drilled for items which may no longer be present, and these holes , if on the bulkhead, may discharge onto the floor. Ian Cornish I'm with Ian on this, especially when you talk about puddles on the floor. Problem is, certainly on my TR4 is that the plenum chamber is not enclosed, but open on the dashboard side, to allow fresh air from the plenum through the dashboard vents, it has about a 1 inch lip and thats it. Any blockage in the outlet tube and this lip soon overflows down onto your knee if you are driving, and the floor otherwise. Suggest you prove the point by putting a hosepipe directly into the flap, and without going mad, let the plenum fill, you'll very soon see if thats your issue, and if it is, sealing the windscreen will have no effect. I fixed mine by cutting a peice of aluminium, slightly larger than the airvent, and with copious amount of mastic, slid this over the area, its right behind the airvent, and the rubber seal of the vent holds the ally in place, I don't have fresh air ventilation, - in an open top car, - but I do have dry knees! Did this many years ago, and so far 100% success. I know this is only a stop gap cure, and one day I'll need to get in there and clean out the area, and repair the plenum outlet tube, plus whatever. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dady Posted August 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2021 Many thanks to everyone that has responded to my plea, I must say I’m impressed with the advice given. This is just what I’d hoped for when joining. I will take all on board and report back when I’ve hopefully sorted the issue. It takes me back to my 16 year ownership of a Scimitar GTC. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted August 19, 2021 Report Share Posted August 19, 2021 Another endorsement for Captain Tolley. Very easy to apply for windscreen rubber sealing. Comes out a " milky " colour so that you can see where it has been applied but dries clear. Invariably needs a second application but quick , easy and you don't get mucky doing it. The harder fix , if it's the plenium at fault , is another story all together. I had to weld in patches, new short metal drain tubes and a new circuit for the rubber tubing , taking the water out below the car. Access was easy during my body off , cut in two restoration . Wings removed . new floor pan , cills , etc. I made sure I wouldn't have to do it again in a hurry. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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