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Gearbox Removal


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4 minutes ago, Richard71 said:

Thanks for the replies.

The image you've put in my mind is a piece of hardwood wedged between the back of the cyl head & the area beneath the battery tray?

Richard.

Exactly Richard.

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7 minutes ago, Richard71 said:

Thanks for the replies.

The image you've put in my mind is a piece of hardwood wedged between the back of the cyl head & the area beneath the battery tray?

Richard.

Yes, like this Richard- this is my 3A but I've used the same method on my TR6s, albeit it with a slightly longer piece of wood to spread the load.

Cheers, Andrew

IMG_4790.thumb.JPG.79c0ab0b23684817faaddf0c83d63318.JPG

 

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On 11/26/2020 at 5:12 AM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Or a block of wood across the back of the engine leaning against the bulkhead.

There's probably a Churchill tool number for that :rolleyes:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

Sadly having run my newly rebuilt gearbox in my near completed TR4A project, I was not happy with the IP Bearing noise in Neutral when run on axle stands. The bearing seemed perfectly good to the hand rotation on inspection. However possibly not.

So out with the gearbox!  Owing to Covid had to do a one man job. No problem removing the gearbox, usual car jack underneath, support the engine under the sump, pull back, wriggle it out and try not to get a Hernia or a slipped disc :D.

Pulled the gearbox to bits and replace Input and output bearings, also the IP shaft needle bearing for good measure. I had already installed an uprated 3 bearing laygear and new shaft.

Now to refit the gearbox single handed!. Tried to use a jack to support the Gearbox and twist it to get the clutch lever past the floor and then line it up with the engine. After a couple of hours either under the car or in the cab pushing and twisting I was getting no where as the jack would not hold the gearbox in position. In normal time a mate would help with this this method.

Give up and have a cup of tea. Then a Eureka moment! Why not support the gearbox from the top on a sling. So a quick look under the dash and I was able to fix a cargo strap, one end on the left side secured to the dash/Glovebox support bracket, the right side around the steering column. By using the ratchet I was able, take the weight of the gearbox, turn it easily to get the clutch leaver past the floor and push it forward to drop down past the prop shaft tunnel and then locate two long 5/16 UNC guide bolts into the two bolt holes adjacent to the top 3 studs. One push with a long lever braced against the prop shaft tunnel, and heh presto in it popped.

The cargo strap method took about 10 minutes and all done from inside the cab.  Much easier that rolling my 76 year old body around under the car!:D.

Cheers

Rich

 

 

 

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Must be the season to take out gearboxes.  Just done mine (needed to swap the pressure plate for a stronger one to take the torque from the supercharger). Definitely use the block of wood.. my trick for refitting is to place a plank from the back of the engine to the back of the chassis in front of the teeshirt. Keep it in place with a Jack.  You can then slide the gearbox along it and it is at the perfect height to slide in to the clutch. I also cable tie the clutch lever to one of the bolt holes in the  bell housing to keep it out of the way.. only issue I had was for getting to cut it before doing up the bolts so it got trapped and had to undo them all and pull it out.  Doh!

altogether, 90 mins to remove and about 3 hours to replace. 
 

cheers tim

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1 hour ago, rvwp said:

Hi Guys,

Sadly having run my newly rebuilt gearbox in my near completed TR4A project, I was not happy with the IP Bearing noise in Neutral when run on axle stands. The bearing seemed perfectly good to the hand rotation on inspection. However possibly not.

So out with the gearbox!  Owing to Covid had to do a one man job. No problem removing the gearbox, usual car jack underneath, support the engine under the sump, pull back, wriggle it out and try not to get a Hernia or a slipped disc :D.

Pulled the gearbox to bits and replace Input and output bearings, also the IP shaft needle bearing for good measure. I had already installed an uprated 3 bearing laygear and new shaft.

Now to refit the gearbox single handed!. Tried to use a jack to support the Gearbox and twist it to get the clutch lever past the floor and then line it up with the engine. After a couple of hours either under the car or in the cab pushing and twisting I was getting no where as the jack would not hold the gearbox in position. In normal time a mate would help with this this method.

Give up and have a cup of tea. Then a Eureka moment! Why not support the gearbox from the top on a sling. So a quick look under the dash and I was able to fix a cargo strap, one end on the left side secured to the dash/Glovebox support bracket, the right side around the steering column. By using the ratchet I was able, take the weight of the gearbox, turn it easily to get the clutch leaver past the floor and push it forward to drop down past the prop shaft tunnel and then locate two long 5/16 UNC guide bolts into the two bolt holes adjacent to the top 3 studs. One push with a long lever braced against the prop shaft tunnel, and heh presto in it popped.

The cargo strap method took about 10 minutes and all done from inside the cab.  Much easier that rolling my 76 year old body around under the car!:D.

Cheers

Rich

 

 

 

Hi Rich!

This is the trouble, age catches up with you! I have to get my son on some of these jobs that I had no trouble in doing. But when he does them for me now he is like a rat up a drain pipe, it all is so easy for him!

Bruce.

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