BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 Does your figure of 8 look like this? Then you caught it just in time. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 indeed you did ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 That was 35 years of corrosion, since the liners were installed. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 Did the liners come out easily ? I ask because mine will be coming out in the next day or two once I get the engine onto the engine stand. they will have been in for >50 years, & still did not leak ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 Are they steel? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Lebro said: Did the liners come out easily ? I ask because mine will be coming out in the next day or two once I get the engine onto the engine stand. they will have been in for >50 years, & still did not leak ! Bob. Probably copper Fo8 gaskets with a Wellseal covering, this tool pulls liners out at 50 years old Bob The alloy plugs turned shoulders are -10 on a 86 mm liner bore where the shoulder is (the other one is 89mm) and -20 on the outside dia on the block bore. Drop the heavy duty channel with the slotted holes over 2 diagonal cylinder head studs onto old gudgeon pins over the same head studs located onto the block. Screw a couple of head stud nuts loosely onto the studs to prevent possible movement, locate the threaded bar in position down the liner bore centre and position your chosen plug on the bottom of the liner. The steel support plate painted orange goes behind the alloy plug, it also has an outside dia -20 on the block bore, screw the bottom nut on the threaded bar and screw up until the liner lifts. No damage and the liner could be reused if needed. The liner needs to come up a couple of inches before it can be wiggled out...carefully especially if 89mm they are thin on the liner skirt. Mick Richards Edited November 5, 2020 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 1 hour ago, Charlie D said: Are they steel? Steel figure of 8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Motorsport Mickey said: Probably copper Fo8 gaskets with a Wellseal covering, this tool pulls liners out at 50 years old Bob The alloy plugs turned shoulders are -10 on a 86 mm liner bore where the shoulder is (the other one is 89mm) and -20 on the outside dia on the block bore. Drop the heavy duty channel with the slotted holes over 2 diagonal cylinder head studs onto old gudgeon pins located onto the block. Screw a couple of head stud nuts loosely onto the studs to prevent possible movement, locate the threaded bar in position down the liner bore centre and position your chosen plug on the bottom of the liner. The steel support plate painted orange goes behind the alloy plug, it also has an outside dia -20 on the block bore, screw the bottom nut on the threaded bar and screw up until the liner lifts. No damage and the liner could be reused if needed. The liner needs to come up a couple of inches before it can be wiggled out...carefully especially if 89mm they are thin on the liner skirt. Mick Richards Our item for same job. Can you guess what it is adapted with? No real effort required, lots of grot in the lower water jacket area though. Peter W Edited November 5, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 I will make something similar. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 (edited) 32 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Steel figure of 8 I guess they would have lasted a lot longer if they were copper. (I wonder if it was it a thickness issue to use steel.) Here is my puller. An old brass gear from an antique photo copier (turned down), a bit of screwed rod, and 2 square washers. I space it above the head surface using a couple of 1/2 inch sockets. Very satisfying to use. You get a "BANG" as the seal breaks, and then you just wind it out. Charlie. Edited November 5, 2020 by Charlie D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 (edited) From my stock of Triumph gaskets......Steel fig 8 is sort of 15 to 16 thou thick. Copper are sort of 17 to 18 thou thick. Using my ‘verynear’ callipers I do not think the copper ones crush down by more than a thou in use. what say you Mick? Peter W Edited November 5, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 19 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: From my stock of Triumph gaskets......Steel fig 8 is sort of 15 to 16 thou thick. Copper are sort of 17 to 18 thou thick. Using my ‘verynear’ callipers I do not think the copper ones crush down by more that a thou in use. what say you Mick? Peter W 2 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said: Probably copper Fo8 gaskets with a Wellseal covering, this tool pulls liners out at 50 years old Bob The alloy plugs turned shoulders are -10 on a 86 mm liner bore where the shoulder is (the other plug is 89mm) and -20 on the outside dia on the block bore. Drop the heavy duty channel with the slotted holes over 2 diagonal cylinder head studs onto old gudgeon pins located onto the block. Screw a couple of head stud nuts loosely onto the studs to prevent possible movement, locate the threaded bar in position down the liner bore centre and position your chosen plug on the bottom of the liner. The steel support plate painted orange goes behind the alloy plug, it also has an outside dia -20 on the block bore, screw the bottom nut on the threaded bar and screw up until the liner lifts. No damage and the liner could be reused if needed. The liner needs to come up a couple of inches before it can be wiggled out...carefully especially if 89mm they are thin on the liner skirt. Mick Richards Not even that Peter, I reckon 3/5ths of bugger all, certainly not enough to have to make allowances for Mick Richards. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dic Doretti Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 I rebuilt my TR2 engine on the street in Glasgow many years ago. No chance of using a puller on the liners as the pistons were seized in the bores so I resorted to an aluminium drift and a lump hammer, not easy but they came out in the end and the engine was successfully rebuilt. Cheers Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 (edited) On 11/5/2020 at 1:29 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Does your figure of 8 look like this? Then you caught it just in time. Peter W Taken out yesterday, having been there since Triumph put them in circa 1960. Shows that copper is the material to use. There was no evidence of any sealant being used either. Edited January 16, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 Bob, 1 hour ago, Lebro said: There was no evidence of any sealant being used either. What did the mating faces in the block and on the liners look like? Charlie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 Clean, corrosion free, & shiny once given a wipe. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 (edited) The trouble with copper Fo8 gaskets are just be careful you don't nick the edges on the flat mating surfaces when you stone them ready for their reuse lol. Mick Richards Edited November 8, 2020 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 But yours is an FRE engine Bob, originally I believe they were all steel. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 3 hours ago, Lebro said: Taken out yesterday, having been there since Triumph put them in circa 1960. Shows that copper is the material to use. There was no evidence of any sealant being used either. How thick are the copper fig 8s you have just removed? in thousandths of an inch please as I am still struggling with SI units unless I use a calculator. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 2 hours ago, Charlie D said: Bob, What did the mating faces in the block and on the liners look like? Charlie Regarding the corroded fig 8 the block - The seating area of no 4 just below the black drain tap was pitted where the fig 8 had corroded. The block is now away being refaced. The corresponding liner mating face was dark but not pitted. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 Measured thickness of the removed f of 8 is 0.0165" on average Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 2 hours ago, stuart said: But yours is an FRE engine Bob, originally I believe they were all steel. Stuart. Yes, it is a FRE engine, the center main cap, & the block are stamped 57 which I presume is DOM. F of 8 are definitely copper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 FWIW just measured a new copper one (from TR shop bottom gasket set) 0.020", then measured the steel ones which came with the liner / piston set (also TR shop) 0.015" Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 Hi Bob if you want to use the thicker copper Fo8's and that puts the liner too high then simply trim the liner back on your lathe - top or bottom Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Lebro said: Yes, it is a FRE engine, the center main cap, & the block are stamped 57 which I presume is DOM. F of 8 are definitely copper Nope ! it you scrape off the c r a p (see what I did there lol) on the front cap with it's alloy sealing block you'll find the same number and possibly an alphabet letter also, same on the rear cap also (normally on the mains bolt register area). They are mains caps identification to match the caps and block together in case of being reworked and mixed with other parts. Mick Richards Edited November 8, 2020 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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