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Any need for unleaded head?


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If the head is off the engine for refurbishment then get it converted for unleaded with hardened exhaust valve seats. Dont remove the head merely to have it converted,  just drive on unleaded and under normal road conditions,  it will be fine for tens of thousands of miles.

Nigel

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I wouldn't class an unleaded  head upgrade as an absolute requirement.

20 years ago the demise of unleaded was the upcoming monster about to be unleashed on the classic community. The threat never eventuated. I've got by by for a few decades  adding a dash of lead additive at each fill.

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Judging from anecdotal evidence over the years, some do this, and some don't, both with good results.

It seems that it is less common on this (US) side of the Atlantic.

Ed

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When I rebuilt my TR6 engine, no sign of valve seat recession and I did not fit new valve seats. The TR3 had some serious valve seat recession and I had it machined for new hardened valve seats.

Stan

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For all the aggravation removing a head etc while its off along with the relatively small cost I'd have the seats done.

Plus I suspect as there is a switch to electric the demand for higher octane petrol/diesel will fall and we will be stuck with the lower octane offerings which these engines won't be as happy using and higher combustion temps and seat recession so it might also be a bit of insurance as well to have them done.

Andy 

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I'd agree with the advice but would add that my exhaust seats did need replacing when I removed the head, possibly due to use of unleaded fuel. If your compression is good, seats are probably ok but I would use an additive. 

Regards Mike.

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Taking all advice on board thank you,can I ask what you guys would consider good or at least acceptable compression readings,as the last owner had readings done fairly recently.I know I can find them in a book but I would prefer real world advice from the guys in the real world obviously meaning no disrespect to the book writers

nige

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