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Damaged AC Fuel Pump


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It certainly is not Marco - credit where it is due, you do very well indeed.  

It must be very difficult to understand, and to use, some of the more idiomatic expressions and technical jargon which we tend to lapse into. 

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Hi there,

Apologies Hamish. I like the pebble dash, rustic look of the inside of the pump, crusty!!!!!!!!!!!!

Roger, get a life, It's a fuel distributer.

David,

Not to dampen your spirits (get it petrol, spirits, oh forget it ) but you probably should be aware there is a oil seal that is missed out of the repair kits. It can and does go brittle over time and leaks from engine block, not mentioned by anyone that I can see.

As regards the picture, I would dress the vertical edge of the inlet/outlet valve receptacle smooth off the other area fit the valves in their correct hole and use a punch to hold them to hold them. do NOT BE OVER ENTHUSIASTIC WITH THIS. YOU ONLY NEED TO SWELL THE MATERIAL TO HOLD THEM in a vice like grip.

Rod

NB

 

Edited by Rodbr
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Hi David,

I did not want to make you worry about the "oil" (petrol) seal because I don't know where you can buy one....

And - do diaphragms really crack ? I never heared about. The pump on my TR4A was without this seal for years until I realized it.

If you want photos please let me know, I have some stored from my rebuilt some years ago.

And: do you own a lathe? This is the key to some more possibilities to improve your pertol pump.

Is your pump leaver made of cast steel or of layers of hardened steel fixed with a rivet?

Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
petrol pump, not oil pump
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Hi Marco,

The pump lever is layers of hardened steel with a rivet. Which seal are people referring to? Not the pump to crankcase, that seems widely available...

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Hi David,

sadly my petrol pumps (3) are not AC but "Made in Canada", so they could be different to yours.

When you look at your work shop manual you see the seal for the pushrod and its retainer washer, next #14 and 15.

At the german translated manual it is called "oil seal".

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They have not been on the market the last years and also not currently, they look like this, left from the top, right from below.

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If it is still on your fuel pump best is you don't touch it, on the next photo it is missing (in the center), right marked by the red ring: the "breather" hole.

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You see the "breather" hole also here:

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I've been told 2 stories about what "the seal" and retainer is for:

1.

It is a oil seal to keep the oil and oil vapors in the engine and away from the diaphragm and to avoids loosing oil out of the breather hole.

I guess this is not likely, not to loose oil was never a special attempt at the TR2-4 with its breather pipe to the atmosphere (it was an attempt on the 4A with its PCV valve).

And the oil should be no problem to the diaphragm if the petrol is no problem.

2.

It's a petrol seal to avoid pertol draining in the engine in the case of a leak in the diaphrgam,

also therefore the construction has a "rim" inside, see 2 photos above, so the "breather" hole (indeed this it is) could also be a "drain" hole to indicate a leaking diaphragm?

In my opionon this is likely.

 

When you have the pump in pieces have a look on the very soft flanges of the zinc cast body.

With the bolts torqued too much they could be bended and you will not get it sealed, guess why I know.

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I leveled them on sandpaper glued with tape on a glass panal, please see 3 photos above.

Better is to have a pump with a cast steel (not iron) lever, they have some less play to the left and right side.

ABLVV87RyNrYNudWjuqJrQbj72O5iuMYlTel_fS0

The pumps with lever made of layers have mostly a horrible play, the lever can slip down the cam on the camshaft and so bend and fail.

This never hapened to me but I have seen some pumps with bended lever. If you own a lathe you can shim the leaver and the play to "zero".

Or you buy standard shims.

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ABLVV84j1ng-AWhPdCcXtSQdy4PtoWlIJVDryaaK

About the shaft of the leaver there are 2 different models, one with clips, one slightly punched.

Also one with manual pump leaver outside and one without.

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On the cuttently repro copy the shaft is not doing through, its pressed in from the engine side.

The one I bought is good quality, of cause I tested it on my TR4A and also opened it: it comes with the seal and retainer for the push rod. 

This is my 4 th pump and stored.

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I still drive the old one that came with my TR4A about 11 years ago (very pleased),

without external pump leaver, with new diaphragm, petrol seal, retainer and shimed.

The other pumps I own by accident.

If you still have any question please ask.

Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
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Hi Marco,

there is a 3rd option/choice for retaining the lever pivot pin (your 2nd from last pic above)

The pin can be lightly splined and pushed into the alloy body.

This is not a very good method as the pin can migrate out (twice in my case).

The pump worked well so I kept it but made pump mounting washers that TRapped the pin.

Roger

DSCF0012a.jpg

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Hi Roger,

good idea! Mine also moved out one time, so I glued it with lump of 2K glue,

first one side, then the other side,  with this the shaft is also oil sealed, durable since 5 years.

I guess some of you relize I like to glue thinks. That works pretty well with the always correct glue for the case...

Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
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Hi Marco,

'glue' is a good thing. I spent at lot of time on aircraft checking the 'glue' quality for airframes etc.

Fokker, in Holland, pioneered extensive adhesive bonding of fuselages etc. BEA, then BA, did a great deal of bond testing and understood the process very well.

Sadly some of the USA manufacturers were lagging behind.

Roger

 

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4 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Marco,

'glue' is a good thing. I spent at lot of time on aircraft checking the 'glue' quality for airframes etc.

Fokker, in Holland, pioneered extensive adhesive bonding of fuselages etc. BEA, then BA, did a great deal of bond testing and understood the process very well.

Sadly some of the USA manufacturers were lagging behind.

Roger

 

I glued a leg back onto a bedroom cabinet for my daughter using PVA. I primed and coated it, then left it all to dry on the patio table.

After an hour or so the glue had indeed set rock hard..but the leg had fallen to the ground.:huh:...

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7 hours ago, RogerH said:

....I spent at lot of time on aircraft checking the 'glue' quality for airframes etc....

Uhmmm...

Most people just watch the in-flight film,
have a couple of whiskies,
or have a snooze…

You must have terrified the other passengers.

Charlie.

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1 hour ago, Charlie D said:

 

You must have terrified the other passengers.

Charlie.

Yes on several occasions explaining that this aircraft had a crack in it in a certain place and had to be checked for the cracks progress every so many flying hours.

Not the best person to be accompanied by on a flight.:ph34r:

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