iani Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 I refurbished my N/S/F suspension whilst my car was off the road, as part of this I fitted longer wheel studs & spacers to allow for my wire wheels. After only 60 miles I thought I hadn't tightened the wheel bearing up enough as it was very noisy, on inspection the hub adaptor was loose. All four studs are like the one on the right, the one on the left is a new one. If I put the new one in the hub, it just turns in 3 of the holes, the splines just aren't gripping so I would struggle to tighten the nuts up. Before I hunt for a replacement hub, I just want to sanity check that the new stud should be tight in the hole and not just turn? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 The spline should grip and not turn.There is some suspect ones out there with the splines not so pronounced. I guess these are the front ones as the rears are taper seat. I fitted the uprated Alloy hub kit from CDD although Stuart recommends another supplier. There is always something to do and don't you just love this hobby of ours. Regards Harry TR5 Nutter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 I’d try loctite and a wrap of 0.003” shim around the spline and pull in with nut and washer. or a blob of mig on the head of the stud to the flange.? Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 If the threads of the studs are good, do a weld. Pulling in a stud with nut is not recommended. Studs need to be pressed in. Jochem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted November 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 Thanks chaps, I'll try the weld approach first. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 I’m not a fan of welding bolts. The stud material contains quite a bit of Cr, Ni and C, but a bit of a pre-heat to 100 degr. C will reduce the risk of cracks from high hardness. Best only a light tack weld if you plan to do so. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 (edited) I wouldn’t risk it. As Waldo said welding will compromise the material. A hub is the last place you want to compromise and good used front hubs are quite easy to find. Edited November 24, 2019 by Drewmotty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 The studs should be tight when fitted. Unless the studs are very loose, I'd try installing them with Loctite Red before I scrapped the hub. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted November 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 I've ordered a S/H hub from RTR, hopefully be sorted this week. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 (edited) 38 minutes ago, iani said: I've ordered a S/H hub from RTR, hopefully be sorted this week. Are you sure the new studs are correctly dimensioned? I have far more problems with new parts that are supposedly equivalent to the originals but aren't than secondhand. Were the original studs tight in the hub when you removed them? Edited November 24, 2019 by Mike C Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted November 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 2 minutes ago, Mike C said: Are you sure the new studs are correctly dimensioned? I have far more problems with new parts that are supposedly equivalent to the originals but aren't than secondhand. I'm not using these studs again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 43 minutes ago, iani said: I've ordered a S/H hub from RTR, hopefully be sorted this week. I mean if the old studs were tight in the hub when they were removed, the new ones should also be tight if they were correctly dimensioned. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted November 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 2 minutes ago, Mike C said: I mean if the old studs were tight in the hub when they were removed, the new ones should also be tight if they were correctly dimensioned. They were tighter than they are today but I pushed them in by hand, they were then pulled up by the nuts on the hub adaptor. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 Personally I'd suspect the new studs are undersized, but they might fit securely in your replacement hub. Hope all goes well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted November 25, 2019 Report Share Posted November 25, 2019 If you can't find studs to fit, there are a number of ways the hub could be fixed, either by you or a machine shop. For one, you could drill the holes oversized and insert thin sleeves, tacking or staking them so they won't pull out. Cost at a shop might approach the cost of a hub, though. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted November 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2019 I spoke with Revingtons today, they told me they've seen a number of studs made of too soft a material and the splines not being strong enough. I have used hub and some new studs on their way, hopefully sorted by the weekend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 On 11/24/2019 at 3:09 PM, iani said: ..., as part of this I fitted longer wheel studs & spacers to allow for my wire wheels. Ian, You mention in your original post using longer wheel studs and spacers to fit your wire wheels. Surely you need to fit the special SHORTER wheel studs (Moss P/No 114281) and special thin chamfered nuts (Moss P/No 110366) which allow the wire wheel to seat properly on the splined hub adaptor. Could it be that your wheels aren't seating fully, if the studs/nuts are slightly too long, and that they are "oscillating" on the hub casing the stud damage? Apologies if that suggestion offends but it's worth a look. Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted November 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 8 hours ago, Dave McDonald said: Ian, You mention in your original post using longer wheel studs and spacers to fit your wire wheels. Surely you need to fit the special SHORTER wheel studs (Moss P/No 114281) and special thin chamfered nuts (Moss P/No 110366) which allow the wire wheel to seat properly on the splined hub adaptor. Could it be that your wheels aren't seating fully, if the studs/nuts are slightly too long, and that they are "oscillating" on the hub casing the stud damage? Apologies if that suggestion offends but it's worth a look. Dave McD No Dave, my car had the shorter studs all round, I fitted a pair of replacement rear driveshafts that came with longer studs so I fitted spacers to allow me to use my wires. I then decided to put the longer studs and spacers on the front, I then have the option of changing to bolt on wheels should I choose to. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.