John McCormack Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 Hi, any suggestions on where I can get some original looking body coloured wing beading for my signal red early TR2. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 Hi John, I looked into this a couple of years ago on behalf of the SDF after Dan (2long) asked the same question. The very original/early stuff was cotton covered. Unless you are good at knitting then that is a non-starter. A number of people suggested VW beading but that has the wrong cross section. Moss have a very small amount of Grey or black but it is not advertised. You could ask the question direct to Moss Europe. The original manufacturer are these people COH Baines Ltd Unit 3 Buckingham House Longfield Road Tunbridge Wells Kent TN2 3EY United Kingdom TELEPHONE Phone: 01892 543311 They do not make it any more but they could if the order was high enough. I think it is apprx 1000 Mtr/colour. When I looked into it the numbers just didin't add up. The beading is colour coded. If there were 6 colours, that would be 6000 Mts. How many TR2's need the beading and what colour are they - there would be a great deal going spare. Not much help - sorry Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 ...and what actually is the correct size, shape and was it only a round core covered with leathercloth like welting on trim? Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 Hi Pete, the very early stuff was cotton covered. The later stuff some for of colour coded plastic. I have a small sample here (kindly sent through by Dan). can't remember of hand if it is round or Half round. It does have quite a deep flange. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 (edited) I have seen this done using stainless beadings that have been 'scotchbrited' then painted body colour . Others suggest using VW Beetle wing bead and painting using modern flexible paint. https://www.vwheritage.com/ac8986731-wing-beading-roll-gloss-black-vw-spare Or buy Ruby Red https://www.vwheritage.com/ac8986737-wing-beading-roll-ruby-red-vw-spare In my youth....Cox&Buckles had a roll of Standard Triumph wing beading (700947BLK) and it was as you describe leather cloth covered round section with a long tail/flange. We used to use a trimmer who had a tool to roll/press the Rexine material round the former to create the correct colour seat piping when doing exotic retrims. Peter W Edited October 30, 2019 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 Hi Pete, the VW stuff has a full round profile whereas the TR2 had half round (I'm sure that is right) so the VW beading can;t really be used. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ijonsson Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 "I have seen this done using stainless beadings that have been 'scotchbrited' then painted body colour " Thats what I did, and it works (at least has done so for 3 years) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonathan Smith Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 Racetorations had a TR2 long door restoration on there stand at the IWE this year with coloured beading in ice blue. It may be worth giving them a ring as they may be able to point you in the right direction. I’ve a similar problem - geranium TR2 long door with stainless steel beading and thinking of changing but at moment can’t face the hassle and the prospect of locating original spec in geranium is highly unlikely Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 Would a stainless trim covered in leather cloth look about right? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr2_applegreen Posted October 31, 2019 Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 15 hours ago, ijonsson said: "I have seen this done using stainless beadings that have been 'scotchbrited' then painted body colour " Thats what I did, and it works (at least has done so for 3 years) That was also done on my apple green TR2. However, some pitting/bubbles occured, which is why I would like to renew those. I would highly be interested in a good solution. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted October 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 20 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Pete, the very early stuff was cotton covered. The later stuff some for of colour coded plastic. I have a small sample here (kindly sent through by Dan). can't remember of hand if it is round or Half round. It does have quite a deep flange. Roger Thanks Roger, My car is TS3732O. Would it have been cotton covered? I have used a marine fabric over a rubber core I made from the rubber tubing you use to hold fly screen in a screen door. We have just had our Concours this past weekend and for the first time there were no 3As and there were two long doors and a 3 in Concours class, marvellous, and I will have mine finished by next year (next month hopefully) so 3 long doors at that standard. The two this year used plastic tubing they colour matched to their cars and they looked good. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted October 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 55 minutes ago, tr2_applegreen said: That was also done on my apple green TR2. However, some pitting/bubbles occured, which is why I would like to renew those. I would highly be interested in a good solution. It looks good in the photo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr2_applegreen Posted October 31, 2019 Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 Here is a picture of the other side, where you can better see the bubbles. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted October 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 7 minutes ago, tr2_applegreen said: Here is a picture of the other side, where you can better see the bubbles. I see the problem. Is the beading around the top of the stone guard an original feature or something you did to tidy it up? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr2_applegreen Posted October 31, 2019 Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 Just now, John McCormack said: I see the problem. Is the beading around the top of the stone guard an original feature or something you did to tidy it up? Good question. I didn't do it by myself. Maybe someone else knows? Maybe the picture is irritating- the beading is acutally a black rubber sealing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 31, 2019 Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 1 hour ago, tr2_applegreen said: That was also done on my apple green TR2. However, some pitting/bubbles occured, which is why I would like to renew those. I would highly be interested in a good solution. Painting over stainless can be a problem. Stainless steel puts down an oxide layer on the surface that makes attaching anything problematic. If you scratch the surface as suggested by Pete above and then coat with Jenolite this may give a bubble free surface after the first couple of years. Jenolite contains Phosphoric acid and should protect the SS surface - rather like a flux for soldering. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roger murray-evans Posted October 31, 2019 Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 By extraordinary coincidence, I've spent the day farting around with the piping for my Ice Blue TR2. Mine is early early as opposed to early, so although I'm not absolutely sure what the correct core should be, the piping should be stitched up round (assuming 1/4") rexine/vinyl covered string or hollow rubber core.The later type, and I don't know from what commission number, early (not early early) TR2s, had T section body coloured plastic. FWIW, my TR2 ST parts book gives p/n 700947 and 4 unnamed colours to select. The TR3 supplement shows 'beading with tabs', which has to be the usual s/s beading.? I had previously painted some solid plastic piping from CompleatAutomobilist, using a plastic primer and then a couple of coats of top coat cellulose.Result was paint pinging off in places.Presumably because the primer is flexible and cellulose ain't.So, today I've tried super cleaning and abraiding a spare piece of solid piping and cleaning again with panel wipe, followed by 'Plasticote' primer and then Ice Blue cellulose.I have also tried a rexine/pvc stitched piping with a solid plastic core which I've given 3 coats of Ice Blue to which I had added a very small capful of 2K paint plasticiser. Both are drying overnight, so I don't know how they'll turn out.I suspect that the longer one leaves fitting the piping, with all the flexing and pulling involved, the greater the chance of early failure. I'm rather interested as to how the treatment of cellulose with 2K plasticiser pans out as it may provide a solution. Future experiments in the event of failure, will be to get some 2K Ice Blue made up to match my cellulose, add the full dose of plasticiser which is actually formulated for 2K paint and go from there.I suspect this is going to be the answer, as this is what the modern trade uses for plastic trim/bumpers etc. Roger M-E Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.