Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
John McCormack

TR2 Wing Beading

Recommended Posts

Hi, any suggestions on where I can get some original looking body coloured wing beading for my signal red early TR2.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi John,

I looked into this a couple of years ago on behalf of the SDF after Dan (2long) asked the same question.

The very original/early stuff was cotton covered. Unless you are good at knitting then that is a non-starter.

A number of people suggested VW beading but that has the wrong cross section.

Moss have a very small amount of Grey or black but it is not advertised. You could ask the question direct to Moss Europe.

The original manufacturer are these people

COH Baines Ltd
Unit 3
Buckingham House
Longfield Road
Tunbridge Wells
Kent
TN2 3EY
United Kingdom

TELEPHONE

Phone: 01892 543311

They do not make it any more but they could if the order was high enough.  I think it is apprx 1000 Mtr/colour.

When I looked into it the numbers just didin't add up.  The beading is colour coded. If there were 6 colours, that would be 6000 Mts.

How many TR2's need the beading and what colour are they - there would be a great deal going spare.

 

Not much help - sorry

Roger

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...and what actually is the correct size, shape and was it only a round core covered with leathercloth like welting on trim?

Peter W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Pete,

the very early stuff was cotton covered. The later stuff some for of colour coded plastic.

I have a small sample here (kindly sent through by Dan). can't remember of hand if it is round or Half round.  It does have quite a deep flange.

 

Roger

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have seen this done using stainless beadings that have been 'scotchbrited' then painted body colour .

Others suggest using VW Beetle wing bead and painting using modern flexible paint.  https://www.vwheritage.com/ac8986731-wing-beading-roll-gloss-black-vw-spare

Or buy Ruby Red  https://www.vwheritage.com/ac8986737-wing-beading-roll-ruby-red-vw-spare

In my youth....Cox&Buckles had a roll of Standard Triumph wing beading (700947BLK)  and it was as you describe leather cloth covered round section with a long tail/flange.  We used to use a trimmer who had a tool to roll/press the Rexine material round the former to create the correct colour seat piping when doing exotic retrims. 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Pete,

the VW stuff has a full round profile whereas the TR2 had half round (I'm sure that is right)   so the VW beading can;t really be used.

 

Roger

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"I have seen this done using stainless beadings that have been 'scotchbrited' then painted body colour "

Thats what I did, and it works (at least has done so for 3 years)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Racetorations had a TR2 long door restoration on there stand at the IWE this year with coloured beading in ice blue. It may be worth giving them a ring as they may be able to point you in the right direction. 
I’ve a similar problem - geranium TR2 long door with stainless steel beading and thinking of changing  but at moment can’t face the hassle and the  prospect of locating original spec in geranium is highly unlikely

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would a stainless trim covered in leather cloth look about right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, ijonsson said:

"I have seen this done using stainless beadings that have been 'scotchbrited' then painted body colour "

Thats what I did, and it works (at least has done so for 3 years)

That was also done on my apple green TR2. However, some pitting/bubbles occured, which is why I would like to renew those.

I would highly be interested in a good solution. 

Foto 26.04.19, 18 31 24.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Pete,

the very early stuff was cotton covered. The later stuff some for of colour coded plastic.

I have a small sample here (kindly sent through by Dan). can't remember of hand if it is round or Half round.  It does have quite a deep flange.

 

Roger

Thanks Roger,

My car is TS3732O. Would it have been cotton covered?

I have used a marine fabric over a rubber core I made from the rubber tubing you use to hold fly screen in a screen door.

We have just had our Concours this past weekend and for the first time there were no 3As and there were two long doors and a 3 in Concours class, marvellous, and I will have mine finished by next year (next month hopefully) so 3 long doors at that standard. The two this year used plastic tubing they colour matched to their cars and they looked good.

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
55 minutes ago, tr2_applegreen said:

That was also done on my apple green TR2. However, some pitting/bubbles occured, which is why I would like to renew those.

I would highly be interested in a good solution. 

Foto 26.04.19, 18 31 24.jpg

It looks good in the photo.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, tr2_applegreen said:

Here is a picture of the other side, where you can better see the bubbles.

Foto 25.04.19, 20 55 12.jpg

I see the problem.

Is the beading around the top of the stone guard an original feature or something you did to tidy it up?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, John McCormack said:

I see the problem.

Is the beading around the top of the stone guard an original feature or something you did to tidy it up?

Good question. I didn't do it by myself. Maybe someone else knows?

Maybe the picture is irritating-  the beading is acutally a black rubber sealing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, tr2_applegreen said:

That was also done on my apple green TR2. However, some pitting/bubbles occured, which is why I would like to renew those.

I would highly be interested in a good solution. 

Foto 26.04.19, 18 31 24.jpg

Painting over stainless can be a problem. Stainless steel puts down an oxide layer on the surface that makes attaching anything problematic.

If you scratch the surface as suggested by Pete above and then coat with Jenolite this may give a bubble free surface after the first couple of years.

Jenolite contains Phosphoric acid and should protect the SS surface - rather like a flux for soldering.

 

Roger

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

By extraordinary coincidence, I've spent the day farting around with the piping for

my Ice Blue TR2. Mine is early early as opposed to early, so although I'm not absolutely

sure what the correct core should be, the piping should be stitched up round (assuming 1/4") rexine/vinyl

covered string or hollow rubber core.The later type, and I don't know from what commission number,

early (not early early) TR2s, had T section body coloured plastic. FWIW, my TR2 ST parts book gives p/n

700947 and 4 unnamed colours to select. The TR3 supplement shows 'beading with tabs', which has to be the usual s/s

beading.?

I had previously painted some solid plastic piping from CompleatAutomobilist, using a plastic  primer

and then a couple of coats of top coat cellulose.Result was paint pinging off in places.Presumably

because the primer is flexible and cellulose ain't.So, today I've tried super cleaning and abraiding  a spare piece

of solid piping  and cleaning again with panel wipe, followed by 'Plasticote' primer and then Ice Blue cellulose.I have also tried a

rexine/pvc stitched piping with a solid plastic core which I've given 3 coats of Ice Blue  to which I had added a very small capful of 2K paint plasticiser. Both are drying overnight, so I don't know how they'll turn out.I suspect that the longer one leaves

fitting the piping, with all the flexing and pulling involved, the greater the chance of early failure.

I'm rather interested as to how the treatment of cellulose with 2K plasticiser pans out as it may provide a solution.

Future experiments in the event of failure, will be to get some 2K Ice Blue made up to match my cellulose, add the full

dose of plasticiser  which is actually formulated for 2K paint and go from there.I suspect this is going to be the answer, as this is

what the modern trade uses for plastic trim/bumpers etc.

Roger M-E

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.