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John McCormack

REGULATOR STICKING

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My long door car regulator is sticking occasionally. Remove the cover and give the contacts a flick and all is OK.

What might cause this and how do I fix it permanently? The regulator was new when I fitted it recently. The car has now done 240 miles.

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If the regulator is brand-new it may just be faulty. The repro ones are probably not as good as the Lucas originals. The only 'cure' might be to take it apart and make sure there are no burrs or other manufacturing defects on the moving parts but then I guess you invalidate any warranty and would have to adjust it properly on re-assembly.

Edited by RobH

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May just be a small "pip" on one of the contacts getting stuck in a small hole in the other one. try rubbing them flat with some abrasive paper in between.

Bob.

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The contacts of the cut-out are original made of silver, so I use a very smooth sand paper or just a piece of card board to clean them.

I would test the regulator out of the car.

Only with the voltage coil the contact closes at about 13 V and open at only 8 or 9 V, if I remember right.

The current coil on the cut-out relais is the one that makes the contact open fast, this with the beginning negative current by making an inverse magnetism, getting stronger when the engine is switched off.

Guess that does not work, if the regulator is adjusted correctly.

Much success, Marco

 

Edited by Z320

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As an apprentice at BEA we were taught not to use abrasive paper/ sand paper to clean contacts.

The particles are non-conductive and may come off and stick to the contacts and cause them not to work.

A very small smooth file was recommended.

Not sure what the modern take is on that.

 

Roger

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If the regulator is new and has only done 240 miles there is no way the contact should need cleaning or de-burring.  If it does, it points to inferior materials being used in the contacts which doesn't suggest the unit will have a long service life........

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21 minutes ago, RogerH said:

As an apprentice at BEA we were taught not to use abrasive paper/ sand paper to clean contacts.

The particles are non-conductive and may come off and stick to the contacts and cause them not to work.

A very small smooth file was recommended.

Not sure what the modern take is on that.

 

Roger

I think about sandpaper 1.000 (or card board) to polish them.

Indeed Rob is right: if there is a problem with the contacts already you will not have much joy with the regulator.

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18 hours ago, RobH said:

If the regulator is new and has only done 240 miles there is no way the contact should need cleaning or de-burring.  If it does, it points to inferior materials being used in the contacts which doesn't suggest the unit will have a long service life........

Spot on.

My friendly auto electrician dropped by. The regulator points are burnt out after 240 miles.

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Fit an alternator...

I'll get my coat.

Peter W

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18 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Fit an alternator...

I'll get my coat.

Peter W

This car is to be as original as I can make it. Foibles and all.

 

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There are still some NOS and used in good condition out there....

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I spent a lot of effort on this topic over the years. I have bought many new units cheap and very expensive and they all failed from all the usual suppliers. The copper used is reclaimed and fails very quickly.  After many years I found that the best route was to buy an old one and send it to Cox Automotive for overhaul. They do a great job.

However after a year the units need resetting. Lucas used to say that they made £5 every time an owner took off the cover. So I send mine back to Cox for cleaning and adjustment. This worked well for years until in 2017 I had a solid state unit purpose made to cope with my output and positive earth. Dynamo Regulators Ltd in Fareham Hampshire.  It was £75.00 in 2017. It fits inside the old unit and is out of sight. I have never had to look at the problem again

I have a collection of old regulators in the top shelf in the garage and carry one overhauled one in the boot of my car. It may be my imagination but I think that the car runs better. The ammeter never goes past zero and the battery never needs topping up.I can turn on all electrical parts, 2x spot lights, electric fan, heater fan headlamps etc and as long as the revs are about 2K the ammeter remains in the centre. It is impossible to see any difference from inside the engine bay. There could be a problem with overheating so I use an old cover which has a small hole on the underside from being dropped in the garage. The solid state comes built on a heatsink and some air circulation takes care of the temperature.

I have three old overhauled regulators supplied by Cox Automotive in sealed plastic bags which I am taking to Stratford -on-Avon tomorrow morning to show on the Bring and Buy stall.. I always wanted to keep my car original but the RB106 was always a weak spot even when new.

If you want one of mine send a message via the forum. Sydney is a long way from the Triumph week end.

Good luck Richard and B.

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10 hours ago, Richardtr3a said:

I spent a lot of effort on this topic over the years. I have bought many new units cheap and very expensive and they all failed from all the usual suppliers. The copper used is reclaimed and fails very quickly.  After many years I found that the best route was to buy an old one and send it to Cox Automotive for overhaul. They do a great job.

However after a year the units need resetting. Lucas used to say that they made £5 every time an owner took off the cover. So I send mine back to Cox for cleaning and adjustment. This worked well for years until in 2017 I had a solid state unit purpose made to cope with my output and positive earth. Dynamo Regulators Ltd in Fareham Hampshire.  It was £75.00 in 2017. It fits inside the old unit and is out of sight. I have never had to look at the problem again

I have a collection of old regulators in the top shelf in the garage and carry one overhauled one in the boot of my car. It may be my imagination but I think that the car runs better. The ammeter never goes past zero and the battery never needs topping up.I can turn on all electrical parts, 2x spot lights, electric fan, heater fan headlamps etc and as long as the revs are about 2K the ammeter remains in the centre. It is impossible to see any difference from inside the engine bay. There could be a problem with overheating so I use an old cover which has a small hole on the underside from being dropped in the garage. The solid state comes built on a heatsink and some air circulation takes care of the temperature.

I have three old overhauled regulators supplied by Cox Automotive in sealed plastic bags which I am taking to Stratford -on-Avon tomorrow morning to show on the Bring and Buy stall.. I always wanted to keep my car original but the RB106 was always a weak spot even when new.

If you want one of mine send a message via the forum. Sydney is a long way from the Triumph week end.

Good luck Richard and B.

Thanks Richard. The first thing I noticed was your cars owned and likes. TRs, old houses (all old buildings really) and dogs, especially retrievers, would fit in my description. Next time we are in London I'll contact you.

I repaired the bad regulator (cleaned the points) so it is working and I picked up a spare regulator today so am right for awhile. 

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Hi,

when I bought my TR4A  10 years ago it came with a Lucas RB106/2 23 84 37290F

(23 = week, 84 = year? 37290F serial number for Triumph Herald),  a label "Unipart GEU 603" glues on the cover.

It works without any problem, I give it same attention from time to time but there is always no need for adjustion.

About 5 years ago I bought a good used one at Beaulieu for 15 GBP,

stamped 04 67 (year of my car) 37283E/F (made for TR4A!), sometimes Fortuna is with me.

Tested it, works well, stored.

Ciao, Marco

 

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I cleaned the points and it is working fine. I did buy a new one from our spares so can replace this one if needed.

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