Nigel A Posted September 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2018 Another interesting suggestion. It is quite possible I didn’t tension the hood enough. My main worry though is, after making some adjustments, how to test it at speed as this was probably the scariest moment for a long time. nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 26, 2018 Report Share Posted September 26, 2018 Hi Nigel, when sitting in the car, push the roof frame up; will it go up? if yes, it is not tensioned enough. If it feel quite solid then you are there. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Willie Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 For interest, I tarted up the appearance of the rear window assembly with a further innovation. The stopper filling the upright hole would normally be found in a laboratory flask. The "bung in the horizontal hole is filled with a plastic bump stop from stacking chairs which just happened to fit! See pic. Luckily the stopper is roughly signal red!! Best wishes Willie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 Roger - many thanks for your very kind offer. I’ll p.m. you at some point. Meanwhile ................I tried the sequence as advised, starting at the front. I couldn’t get the rear fixings in despite slackening the frame. Admittedly it was cold so not flexible. Left it, maybe go back to it next week. In the garage this morning there it was sat like this. It’s a repro top, original metal strips and always has been tight. Very very difficult to fix the front. I have managed to put it on previous years but strength in fingers is declining. Any suggestions? JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 I'd suggest using something like a wooden spatula to open up the gap between the screen frame and the capping strip so that the front of the surrey fits in more easily. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 (edited) i JJC, has the front popped out because the back is not attached? Doing mine, after I insert the front metal plates/pouch under the capping I then screw in some pins in the back rail (where the screws would normally go to hold it down) See pic This allows the rear rail screw tubes to be inserted into the holes in the rear frame . This allows the 5/16 screws to be inserted and tightened. I find the hardest part is pushing down the 2nd of the two popper across the centre. The gap under the front capping does need to be wide enough to allow the metal strips/pouch to fit in as deep as the seam in the roof fabric. You may be able to raise it slightly with a spatula but I've never been lucky this way. I've had to fit spacers at the rivet positions of the capping. Roger Edited January 13, 2019 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 may be a picture of your screen capping may give us a clue. My way is first the frame then the front ensuring fully in and the 2 popper studs connected.Next the rear rail screwed in and poppers fitted and last the 2 that are on the centre rail.Finally the 4 elastic straps to front and rear hooks. Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 Picture of the capping Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 Roger your pins look like a finger saver! JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 (edited) Hi JJC, the picture doesn't show the profile of the capping to well but it looks as though it may be for a non - Surrey top. This has a shorted lip !! Is yours a 4 or 4A. The 4 should only have one option - extended lip. The 4A has a short and extended. item #29 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/body-chassis/windscreens-glazing-fittings/windscreen-sun-visors-rear-view-mirror-tr4-4a.html Roger Edited September 27, 2018 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YankeeTR5 Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 Gotta agree with Roger. The surrey windshield cap extends out and angle downs 1/2 inch or so further than the non surrey cap. Even with the picture not being the greatest angle it looks like a regular non surrey cap to my eyes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 I’ll take another picture from above. Car sat for years in barns gently decaying away. The original soft Surrey was with it the screen and capping are as it came. But who knows? Need to find another 4 and have a look. Alternatively a measurement might solve it. Is it the front to back depth of the capping that’s different? JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 6 hours ago, roy53 said: may be a picture of your screen capping may give us a clue. My way is first the frame then the front ensuring fully in and the 2 popper studs connected.Next the rear rail screwed in and poppers fitted and last the 2 that are on the centre rail.Finally the 4 elastic straps to front and rear hooks. Roy Roys' method is exactly what I do to fit mine without any problems. I would agree that the photo of the screen capping, whilst it is from an awkward direction, looks like a standard soft top capping - i.e. without the lip required to locate/fix the surrey soft top front metal stiffener "bar." This is actually 3 parts, a long piece in the centre with 2 shorter end sections for flexibility. Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 28, 2018 Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 13 hours ago, JJC said: I’ll take another picture from above. Car sat for years in barns gently decaying away. The original soft Surrey was with it the screen and capping are as it came. But who knows? Need to find another 4 and have a look. Alternatively a measurement might solve it. Is it the front to back depth of the capping that’s different? JJC Hi JJC, the fore/aft length is different on the surrey & non-Surrey cappings. I'll take a measurement this morning and post it. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SuzanneH Posted September 28, 2018 Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 37 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi JJC, the fore/aft length is different on the surrey & non-Surrey cappings. I'll take a measurement this morning and post it. Roger Roger, for goodness sake take a picture of the front capping too and post it here also. It might also be helpful to take a pic of how the fabric tucks under the capping. a picture is better than a thousand words and all this talking at cross purposes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 28, 2018 Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 (edited) Hi JJC, the fore/aft measurement for the Surrey capping is 72mm at the centreline. I can get a steel rue apprx 18mm under the capping. Roger PS - note where the pop rivet is and the front edge. Edited September 28, 2018 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 28, 2018 Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 Roger - that was quick! Just tried to measure mine....3”......guess that’s 75mm in new money. Picture below Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 28, 2018 Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 Hi JJC, from above you capping looks about right. Next thing is to sort out the gap between capping and screen frame. If needs to be wide enough to accept the pouch with the metal strips in. If it is not then it needs opening up a touch. You could try a wooden spatula and lever it up - this may distort the capping. Remove capping and put spacers in to raise the cap. This will make you scratch your head Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 28, 2018 Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 Roger - brilliant advice by return. My capping isn’t exactly pristine so maybe that’s part of the problem. I’ll fight off the urge to go down the beach for a coffee in the glorious sunshine we’ve got at the moment and go back to the garage. The car isn’t going anywhere right now see picture below, but maybe next week! JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 28, 2018 Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 Just measured under the lip. Nowhere more than 14mm and in places down to 10mm. Reshaping needed. Looks as though it needs reshaping at the upward facing bit just in front of the rivets. That is, not just bending the front up? I guess spacers might be easier. A washer glued on the rivet holes?JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 28, 2018 Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 (edited) Hi JJC, if you go down the spacer route (and it does work) you need to think about where the spacers go. If you fit the spacer (like a washer) under the rivet then you stand the chance that the capping with pivot on it and you will have other problems. If you put a spacer forward of the rivet then the rivet may pull down the capping and give a super dimple effect. So you need to consider a spacer in front of the rivet (to give the gap). and a washer etc under the rivet to stop the dimpling. It can be done but will take all day. Roger Edited September 28, 2018 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 28, 2018 Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 Result! Made up a wood drift with Roger’s 18mm marked on it. Dressed along the capping a few times and it works. All these years of needing help to put it on and I did it single handed. Just need to rebuild the engine to test it at speed. JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted September 28, 2018 Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 Good result! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 28, 2018 Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 Hi JJC, when you go for your test drive amke sure the rood fabric is tensioned and the front looks as if it is where it should be. It should look neat and tidy (ish) Good luck Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 28, 2018 Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 Thanks all. I’ll report back when the engine bits are all inside the engine. JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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