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  1. It can be a tight fit but can be tapped on using a “soft” pipe (I used black abs plumbing pipe as o had some around. On the other hand, you could freeze your main shaft overnight, warm up the bearing in an oven set at 120 and both the shrinkage of the shaft and expansion of the bearing should make it just slide on
  2. One is cheap one isn’t....just sayin
  3. Hot off the press: https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/pts/d/milton-barn-find-rare-british-classic/7389613870.html
  4. Hi Les, My son and I went thru this on his 74. We installed a new SS factory style exhaust but the tips angled up. This started a long exercise of chasing down where the exhaust could enter. While figuring out your running condition, you might want to look at the condition of the seals around the rear tail lights, reverse lights, all grommet in the trunk pan, any grommets under the gas tank (US models have two both of which were shot) finally, the grommets for the e-brake cables thru the bulkhead behind/between the two seats (again, both shot) The e-brake grommets were t
  5. The principle behind the 6-2-1 is, I believe, is that there may not be much principle behind it (other than the simplistic things like packaging, ease of mfg and the fact that cars need some type of exhaust manifold). For the dual pipe exhaust using a 6-2-1 header you can almost make the case that each of the two branches would have its own exhaust pipe. The 6-3-1 at least has some thought re: resonance scavenging etc. that make sense. Basis some other comments....the beauty of the 6-3-1 is that the largest benefit to power is mostly on the lower end.
  6. I have an original Stanpart upper front valence from a TR4. About 9 months ago I compared it to my TR5 and TR250 as someone local was looking for the part. Anyway, as near as I can tell the parts are mostly interchangeable. I believe the difference is in the size of the opening for the running light/turn signal in the grill. The TR4 came with the beehive lens while the 4a and 250 came with a bigger, plastic lens. SO, on the surface, it would seem that the 4a and 250/5 are different than the 4 due to the different sizes of the lenses and the holes to support them. BUT my TR5 was an
  7. And one more. I have an original paint Royal Blue tr250 that is more parts car then runner, stored at my brothers farm. I had him go take a look see at it and he confirmed that there is no black paint behind the grill. There is black on the grill slats but its all body color on any of the body sheet metal (upper valence, lower valance, grill inset) Interesting to see how the Royal Blue has a, to me at least, a really cool oxidation layer on the surface of purplish metallic. It almost looks like a NASA picture of a nebula. Anyway, I get where the Royal comes in as back in the Roman
  8. Wanted to add a footnote: my Malines assembled CKD TR5 is white, still wearing its first paint (although maybe not so a year from now). The grill is removed and it is white behind, above, below, sideways ect around the front opening. So no black. Maybe this was just a CKD thing since the bodies were sent over there for final finishing.
  9. A bit late to the conversation, but for those shaving the head of a North American market car, the factory pushrods on these cars are longer than the ones that came on the PI cars. Shaving down the head on a NA car to the 3.4 thickness of a PI head (to get a 9.5 to 1 compression) will normally require swapping in the PI length (shorter) pushrods. Some folks do not do this and while they all do not have problems there are those who then check in after a bit with valve train issues related to geometry, rockers slipping off the pushrod etc.
  10. I picked up an original paint Royal Blue TR250 about six months ago. It needs restoration (missing floors and trunk), alot of restoration, but the Royal Blue paint has done something pretty amazing to the people who have seen it. One (some?) of the original pigment has oxidized evenly over the entire car giving it a very metallic purple "shine". It doesn't wash or wipe off...it could be polished off, but it would take some effort It really stops people-its quite fetching....to the point where universally, instead of saying "when are you going to restore the car" its "when you restore it
  11. Probably not the source of your problem, but wanted to mention that where the studs go into the block can form a "ridge" that needs to be removed (a very long file that can rest across the blocks face can be gently -gently! used to file flat or at least highlight that you have them. The ridge can occur from multiple tightening of the head.
  12. Sorry Mike, the rope is nothing mechanically like hydraulic locking. Its cotton or nylon and compresses. It neither fills up the entire cylinder nor does it build up pressure in a closed system, but to each their own. Been there, done this on the 2.5 probably a couple of dozen times. Richard, good luck.
  13. rope trick: stuff rope into #1 & #6 cylinder. rotate the engine. The head will "pop" up (depending on how much rope was stuffed into the cylinder) up to 1/2 inch. you can then slide progressively thicker devices (I like wood wedges) until fingers fit to pull it up. I have yet to have a car this didn't work on, except for one where the pistons were stuck to the cylinder walls and couldn't rotate.
  14. For the folks who have had (having) trouble removing the propshaft....are you undoing the collar ring toward the front and then compressing the shaft together? This shortens the shaft a few inches allowing removal in my experience.
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