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  1. Sounds like a shaft rotating and whacking something on each go around. On my sons 74, when we redid the rear (rebuilt hubs, new axle shafts....) we had the same thing. Turns out the bolts we used to connect the flanges together were about 1/4" longer than the stock ones and that difference in length would make a similar noise as you describe on tight turns at low speeds (probably happening at high speeds too but can't really hear things then) and only one of the bolts making contact. No visible signs of the rubbing either.
  2. Time to drain the oil to see whats in it. With the A-type.....if its engaged and driven in 1st or reverse it will quickly make all sorts of noises, some terminal! Hope that's not your case. I'm no expert but have recently torn apart and rebuilt a couple of gearboxes that seem to be doing well in service. A third, that wasn't worth rebuilding it had so much wear and metal circulating (used it as a spare in the son's daily driver while I rebuilt the one w OD) but was in service till the end made lots or whirring and other type of noises made while rotating, but nothing like you're describing. I hope its a clutch or pressure plate that's out of balance (they do break rivets every now and then). If you are not that mechanically inclined find a shop. If you are, its time to pull the tranny. All the best.....
  3. Do you have overdrive on the transmission? Is so, what year is your car?
  4. The factory PI cylinder head with a compression ratio of 9.5 to 1 had a deck height of 3.4". The number you posted is going to give much more I think! Not sure about the fuel mixtures in the UK, but when my son & I did this last summer with the 74 (we swapped on a spare PI head I had) we ended up chasing problems for awhile around run-on, mixture and timing. I mention this as I'd stick at 9.5 to 1 or less. You'll feel a performance bump over what you have for sure.
  5. Hi Paul, Rebuilding strombergs not hard and really no specialized tools needed, other than for adjusting the needle for mixture. Here's a great write up that many have used to rebuild theirs. https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/carburetors All the best....Dan
  6. TRF has all the pieces available. They regularly go on sale for about half of what their retail, if you wanted to wait..... http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/92.php
  7. Just as an FYI ….the factory workshop manual has a diagram showing all the locations they applied seam sealer as well as the various types used. It might be a useful reference given how far you've come....
  8. That looks more like the setup used by Maserati on the 3500, Sebring and Mistral. Probably a bargain at the existing price - I've seen the ask for the fuel pump almost the same as the total setup here.
  9. From Arkansas, I'd look at shipping out of New Jersey or New York. Much less expensive going over to Europe. As a bonus, either is closer to Arkansas, so shipping to the port will be less as well. Check out Hemmings Motor News for transport companies. They regularly advertise.
  10. The head of engineering at King Bearings was interviewed and was asked which was better for classic cars - bi or tri metal bearings. His response, which surprised me, was the bi metal bearings were best for classic cars. The bimetals are better at "absorbing" contaminates as there is more material for those to bed in to and not damage the crank journals. He commented that newer cars due to much tighter tolerances had much smaller contaminates that could flow thru so less needed for them to bed in to.
  11. My concern about the larger carb is would the engine provide enough vacuum to make them responsive enough, especially off the line and lower RPM. Bigger hole, same draw of aie = less flow velocity across the needle = bad, Also, the pistons will be slightly heavier, meaning more flow is needed to move them. The 2.0L GT6 used 1.50's so the 1.75's are already a step up. The 1.75's are good to up to 150 bhp (so I've read), so unless you're going beyond that, I guess the big question is why? If its more performance you're looking for there are far more proven ways to get it.
  12. Hmm, that looks like its made for the now, very rare TR6 GT widebody!
  13. Ok, its an early car and a press car, but in the grand scheme of things, what would you expect a premium to be for a the car? So if a restored, regular TR5 is a 50,000 pound car, this car restored would be worth ?? as a press car? 60 ( a 20% premium)…..70?....80? I've been a lifelong TR fanatic (owned 27 of them from 3s to 6's) and the press car gets kind of a meh. Interesting but not really worth too much more than a regular one especially in project form. Just my opinion of course and I'm across the pond. As much as is made of the fakes that exist, and they do, I think the actual number of those cars is a far smaller percentage than they're made out to be. I mean, in reading this thread, if I were an outsider interested in a TR5 (not the press car, just looking and learning for instance) I'd walk out of fear that the vast majority of TR5's advertised are fake. Caution is the nature of the day in the entire classic car market these days given prices. I guess I'm lucky I have a CKD car I found here in the states from an owner going back to 1972 and when I went to look I knew where to look for things like the commission number stamped on the frame before that became more known so have some peace of mind.
  14. Tim, same thing recently happened to my J-type w/brass bushings. The steel thrust washer for second had crumbled apart...after about 5K on a rebuild. It was a reused part so I figured it had become brittle or maybe went in reversed (no big deal) but that the stresses it undergoes were reversed and maybe that had something to do with it. Luckily everything else, except bearings, were good enough to reuse after pulling things apart.
  15. Gotta agree with Roger. The surrey windshield cap extends out and angle downs 1/2 inch or so further than the non surrey cap. Even with the picture not being the greatest angle it looks like a regular non surrey cap to my eyes.
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