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YankeeTR5

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  1. From Arkansas, I'd look at shipping out of New Jersey or New York. Much less expensive going over to Europe. As a bonus, either is closer to Arkansas, so shipping to the port will be less as well. Check out Hemmings Motor News for transport companies. They regularly advertise.
  2. The head of engineering at King Bearings was interviewed and was asked which was better for classic cars - bi or tri metal bearings. His response, which surprised me, was the bi metal bearings were best for classic cars. The bimetals are better at "absorbing" contaminates as there is more material for those to bed in to and not damage the crank journals. He commented that newer cars due to much tighter tolerances had much smaller contaminates that could flow thru so less needed for them to bed in to.
  3. My concern about the larger carb is would the engine provide enough vacuum to make them responsive enough, especially off the line and lower RPM. Bigger hole, same draw of aie = less flow velocity across the needle = bad, Also, the pistons will be slightly heavier, meaning more flow is needed to move them. The 2.0L GT6 used 1.50's so the 1.75's are already a step up. The 1.75's are good to up to 150 bhp (so I've read), so unless you're going beyond that, I guess the big question is why? If its more performance you're looking for there are far more proven ways to get it.
  4. Hmm, that looks like its made for the now, very rare TR6 GT widebody!
  5. Ok, its an early car and a press car, but in the grand scheme of things, what would you expect a premium to be for a the car? So if a restored, regular TR5 is a 50,000 pound car, this car restored would be worth ?? as a press car? 60 ( a 20% premium)…..70?....80? I've been a lifelong TR fanatic (owned 27 of them from 3s to 6's) and the press car gets kind of a meh. Interesting but not really worth too much more than a regular one especially in project form. Just my opinion of course and I'm across the pond. As much as is made of the fakes that exist, and they do, I think the actual number of those cars is a far smaller percentage than they're made out to be. I mean, in reading this thread, if I were an outsider interested in a TR5 (not the press car, just looking and learning for instance) I'd walk out of fear that the vast majority of TR5's advertised are fake. Caution is the nature of the day in the entire classic car market these days given prices. I guess I'm lucky I have a CKD car I found here in the states from an owner going back to 1972 and when I went to look I knew where to look for things like the commission number stamped on the frame before that became more known so have some peace of mind.
  6. Tim, same thing recently happened to my J-type w/brass bushings. The steel thrust washer for second had crumbled apart...after about 5K on a rebuild. It was a reused part so I figured it had become brittle or maybe went in reversed (no big deal) but that the stresses it undergoes were reversed and maybe that had something to do with it. Luckily everything else, except bearings, were good enough to reuse after pulling things apart.
  7. Gotta agree with Roger. The surrey windshield cap extends out and angle downs 1/2 inch or so further than the non surrey cap. Even with the picture not being the greatest angle it looks like a regular non surrey cap to my eyes.
  8. 600 hours seem very excessive - had an old Alfa missing floors rockers etc that had to be fabbed and total hours charged was near that for all the repair and paint. 200 hours may be five weeks, which your car may have taken, but dollars to donuts that wasn't 8 hours a day of labor for 5 weeks....Shop rates are supposed to be for work being performed, not also for idle time of car sitting. My Alfa took a lot longer than 600 hours (15 weeks) to get back to me!
  9. I do not mean to step on John's toes as his article is the correct way to achieve an exact compression ratio for a given cylinder head. However, a bit simpler method that will get you close, and is useful if you're not going to push the envelop on compression ratio, is to use the deck height of the cylinder head itself. Here's a link that discusses this a bit and tells you what deck height equates to a particular compression ratio: https://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?ukey=auxpage_tr6-compression-ratio
  10. Tim....have referenced your post over the last several months to several folks here in the US facing replacing their original motor. Thanks for discovering it!
  11. those don't look bad, but you should check them all. Recently changed all rod and mains on my sons 74 6. The #1 main was unworn, the others were showing copper on the bearings. Apparently its nearest the oil pump so gets best oil flow. All rods were showing some copper and were evenly worn. Bearings are cheap, relatively, so since you've got things apart, why not just replace them all. Its pretty simple to do. Can't comment on pistons, but a good cleaning always helps everything. You could always re-ring them and hone the cylinders and now you've got yourself a "hillbilly rebuild"! What the heck, you're already there
  12. I used 30 wt non detergent oil in my j-type overdrive that was working fine-supposedly a recent rebuild when car was purchased. I have now pulled it and am having to do a rebuild due to the layshaft bearings and thrust washers disintegrating quickly. I will not use 30wt ND oil, nor any non factory recommended lubricant again. Irrespective of what the various forums suggest! YMMV
  13. Or drop an aluminum V8 into that and go upmarket. Oh what could have been. Too bad BMW owns the trademark for Triumph and have stated they have no intention of ever letting it go. Lots of passion and a fantastic history around this mark.
  14. Not to go down the rabbit hole or to be contentious....BUT, Kas Kastner, Triumph's race team director in the states did very extensive testing on the six cylinder engine including different cam's, induction (standard & modified ZS, Webers & PI) etc and wrote a manual on how to make a 6 pot go faster - for street and for all out race. The manual is full of comparative graphs showing differences of bolting on different parts to the same engine as a baseline. Good read really. Given his results (TR's were very successful, if not dominant, from TR4-6's under his direction) he called out under the exhaust section that the best performance, other than for all out race, to be achieved was with a single pipe exhaust with a slightly larger diameter pipe. He found no benefit to fitting the dual manifold/dual pipe exhaust. Just sayin.... He did not however ever test a 6-3-1 manifold, as the idea wasn't around back then. From my understanding, this style if correctly done (equal length primaries, etc) provides a nice bump in HP and torque on a street car.
  15. It sounds like a cracked dif mount or pin. If that checks out, could be worn trailing arm bushes...or if recently changed to poly/nylatron, too much space so they clonck as they "set" into position (my recent issue as everything else had been redone in the rear - particularly bad at low speeds btw). Given new u-joints and shafts, you're running out of options. Although the rear is full of all kinds of opportunities for clonks.....
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