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qkingston

Inside the chassis

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So the next question is; what's the best way to clean the crud and any surface corrosion from inside the chassis box sections? Given the general clean state of the exterior of the chassis steel, I don't think it needs shot-blasting. So is there an effective way of doing this?

 

VMT

 

David

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The chassis also has a number of baffles inside the box sections which prevent proper cleaning or Wayoiling, unless you know where to drill access holes to the sealed off sections....

 

Does anyone have such a chart to hand for each chassis type?

 

Iain

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Dip it?

From what I can see, the steel is in very good condition (generally California chassis don't corrode from the inside out as a UK one does), so I think its mainly about cleaning off the crud so it can be Waxoyled. Something like a long rotating brush on a flexible drive?

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As Iain says the chassis has a number of internal baffles or bulkheads welded across which inhibits even pouring Waxoyll in from the end box sections with the chassis vertical and all holes blanked off and then turning the chassis over and standing it on the other end after a suitable period of a couple of hours. I used an entire 5 litre tin thinned down and after the vertical immersion and then turned around vertical with the other ends sealed up...nothing came out !

Any idea of a long wire brush scouring other than at the open box section ends is very unlikely to work, drilling behind each baffle or bulkhead with at least 2 holes to allow air dispersal and then dipping galvanised or acid dipped and then phosphated is probably the best way.

I should think Stuart of Watermill Carriage who post here with very interesting and excellent bodywork photos might know where the baffles are having straightened and chopped a number of TR4 chassis, also RogerH loves to squirt oil and other stuff in his chassis so he also might have a "terrain" map of the chassis baffles. Depending on your chassis you might be able to see spot welding marks indicating where the baffles are yourself from underneath.

 

Mick Richards

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My chassis (TR6) was not corroded either, apart from the lower T-shirt.

I first blew out each section with compressed air from one side and a 1/2 hose taped to a vacuum cleaner on the other end.

You can measure how long the sections are with a flexible wire. I think the only blind boxes were at tge rear trailingarm connections, but not 100% sure. Drilled a small hole in the bottom to inject.

The majority of dirt was around the openings. Removed stuck dirt with vent wire, and again above blowing/sucking until satisfied.

When all cleaning was completed, filled with waxoil, several times, also with chassis on sides and upside down.

This was after all welding blasting and powdercoating was completed.

HAppy with result, it will outlast me probably, which is a strange idea, isnt it?

Waldi

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Hi Waldi,

 

The chassis has several baffles at the front in the suspension tower area, sometimes you can see the spot welds from the outside.

 

Mick Richards

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ok just about ready to do this now, does anyone have a chassis 'terrain map'? And is it Dinitrol or Waxoyl?

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If you wanna avoid the commercial products then a mix of linseed oil, paraffin wax (candles) and kerosene 40:40:20 works very well ... maybe in a cold climate go 60:20:20...it 'sets' initially due to the wax and later due to the oxidation of linseed...it remains waxy and somewhat 'self healing' and once set doesnt drip off on a sunny day.

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Thirty five years ago my newly restored TR3 with an excess of thinned down waxoyl in the chassis waxoyled Iains car for him when he was following me home from an Apple County meeting. :-)

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Hi David,

               haven't got an internal map of baffles etc.

You will need to insert holes into the side member of the chassis rails to appply waxoyl etc or rust removing/killer products.

Use a wire coat hanger to feel along the rails from these holes to find the baffles.

If you drill any holes ensure you have the grommets before you start.

Roger 

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