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Rear end losing traction


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Aside from the discussions about axle modifications, Stan's car does not sound to be particularly "hot" and still suffers wheel spin. I too have had this - Stan calls it Leadfoot. I call it Triumph linkage. I have run side screen cars modified to a cable throttle and very nice they were too. My car currently on the road has the standard set up and I have the dickens of a job feeding in the power from a start. This is all down to the linkage, relatively new components which I have adjusted till I am blue in the face. It is acceptable though is still a bit on or off and a smart geataway at junctions will still break traction. I am sure there could be ways of improving it by changing some parts - partuclarly the bell-crank, The ultimate would be to fit a cable again but I am loath to do that on this particular car so I just live with it.

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Aside from the discussions about axle modifications, Stan's car does not sound to be particularly "hot" and still suffers wheel spin. I too have had this - Stan calls it Leadfoot. I call it Triumph linkage. I have run side screen cars modified to a cable throttle and very nice they were too. My car currently on the road has the standard set up and I have the dickens of a job feeding in the power from a start. This is all down to the linkage, relatively new components which I have adjusted till I am blue in the face. It is acceptable though is still a bit on or off and a smart geataway at junctions will still break traction. I am sure there could be ways of improving it by changing some parts - partuclarly the bell-crank, The ultimate would be to fit a cable again but I am loath to do that on this particular car so I just live with it.

What you need is a bit of slack in the primary linkage that way the throttle is less sensitive, I found this particularly on my 4a with Dellortos as the road to my workshop is fairly rough and without the slack you could chirrup the tyres as soon as you touched the throttle just in a straight line never mind when pulling away round a corner.(Of course the ultimate cure is a much heavier throttle spring that`ll up your MPG too!)

Stuart.

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This is how the axles and springs work on my 3a

Not a lot of power in it. 110bhp and 128ft/lb torque. It has uprated rear springs and vredestien sprint classic 185/70x15 tyres that were brand new. The white marks are just reference marks for the camera.

https://youtu.be/vo1y_9Guzsc

A few straight bits and a few dual carriageway type roundabouts. Then a play on a private car park.

I was trying to assess the inside wheel going light in corners.

 

H

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I bought my first TR3 50 years ago when I was 21..... worked on the building sites to raise the money.... and first weekend, raining, going to a friend's 21st, young, naive, trying it on, thought I could beat an on-coming Green Line coach with my right hand turn at the lights in front of it.

 

360 degrees later, a foul-mouthed coach driver and a weeping boy pulled in to the kerb and thought, "What the hell have I bought? Will I be able to drive it?" Respect for the car was earned that night. Sadly the car had to go a couple of years later; i was broke. But 50 years later I bought my second, and hell am I enjoying it........ though I declined to do a donut at the request of the oik on a pedal bike last week....

 

Best wishes to you all

 

Ian

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Aside from the discussions about axle modifications, Stan's car does not sound to be particularly "hot" and still suffers wheel spin. I too have had this - Stan calls it Leadfoot. I call it Triumph linkage. I have run side screen cars modified to a cable throttle and very nice they were too. My car currently on the road has the standard set up and I have the dickens of a job feeding in the power from a start. This is all down to the linkage, relatively new components which I have adjusted till I am blue in the face. It is acceptable though is still a bit on or off and a smart geataway at junctions will still break traction. I am sure there could be ways of improving it by changing some parts - partuclarly the bell-crank, The ultimate would be to fit a cable again but I am loath to do that on this particular car so I just live with it.

 

My car is slightly warmed over, and I have zero problem getting the power down with whatever modulation feels appropriate using the original bell crank design. I'm by nature a featherfoot, although I'm perfectly happy to leadfoot the TR from time to time.

 

I can't see how the original system (or the driver) can't be adjusted to get smooth power delivery to the wheels.

Edited by Don H.
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My car is slightly warmed over, and I have zero problem getting the power down with whatever modulation feels appropriate using the original bell crank design. I'm by nature a featherfoot, although I'm perfectly happy to leadfoot the TR from time to time.

 

I can't see how the original system (or the driver) can't be adjusted to get smooth power delivery to the wheels.

+1 Don

The biggest culprit for a snatchy throttle on my car was the nylon bush in the bulkhead being absolutely shot! ( Followed by my leaden foot.. :D )

 

Iain

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Stan,

 

This is a luxury problem, I recently joined the forum only because I frustratingly currently can not get my 3 to do that at the moment!

 

So long as you can still control it (to a fashion) surely, you should be happy? - Or, time to trade down to an MGB?

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Stan,

 

This is a luxury problem, I recently joined the forum only because I frustratingly currently can not get my 3 to do that at the moment!

 

So long as you can still control it (to a fashion) surely, you should be happy? - Or, time to trade down to an MGB?

:) Yes indeed, a first world problem for sure. I'm reassured that this is not unusual, I'm still tripping over issues that I created during the rebuild and I'm never sure if I'm seeing normal behavior or a result of me not fully tightening some nut.

 

Stan

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I watched the video a couple or three times and I was surprised by the amount of axle deflection.

Have you looked at the area on the axle where the axle sits to the spring and also checked the u clamps for tightness. Check for excessive paint on axle plate between this and spring and wind the u clamps up tight.

 

Confirm you have no spacers between the spring and axle?

 

If my springs give that much I will be slightly pissed as I fitted uprated rear springs and dampers and found it to be great although after a few hundred miles I had to tighten the u clamps.

I have superpro rear bushes, Revington front spring modification. At the front uprated front springs, spax adjustables, delrin bushed steering arms, superpro bushes. Anti roll bar fitted. The car leans rather less and turns in fine but I have never had an issue with chirping my XAS tyres. It would be difficult to do that I think as it puts the power down smoothly with slightly "floppy" throttle response set up as Stuart advises.

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The film above shows pretty much the usual mount of axle movement that I would expect, nothing wrong with that.If you search Christian Marx Youtube channel you will see exactly the same type of movement on his race TR4

Thats why IRS was developed.

Stuart.

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Rod

No spacers and all tight.

Similar set up to you.

Passed MOT and several scrutineers.

Its just how it is.

You cant really feel that movement and I am glad I Reyes the camera, did so after watching a healey version. https://youtu.be/tN-4LLAKlpw

 

I do drive it like I stole it tho. And with these sprint classics it does squeal.

 

https://youtu.be/VOLmOJj7pIg

 

Enjoy the driving.

H

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