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Nick Webster

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About Nick Webster

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    North Norfolk UK

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  1. Another vote for FRE in light blue Hammerite. Was definitely a "hammer" finish. My father had one in 1965.
  2. Bit shocking to re-read this thread. I've just checked and at least I am still alive, so please do post some pictures of your trim.
  3. Cork is in the list of materials than can be adversely affected by ethanol in fuel. I have no experience myself, but have read that some older car owners have experienced shrinkage of cork seals. Some kind of non natural rubber seal seems to be the way to go. Nick
  4. This car was owned by Martin Stalley, a member of the Essex Group in the mid 1970s. I have a photo of it at a meeting. It was a bit ruff. Perhaps someone from the Group will know what became of him and possibly the car.. Nick Webster
  5. Aside from the discussions about axle modifications, Stan's car does not sound to be particularly "hot" and still suffers wheel spin. I too have had this - Stan calls it Leadfoot. I call it Triumph linkage. I have run side screen cars modified to a cable throttle and very nice they were too. My car currently on the road has the standard set up and I have the dickens of a job feeding in the power from a start. This is all down to the linkage, relatively new components which I have adjusted till I am blue in the face. It is acceptable though is still a bit on or off and a smart geataway at junct
  6. Mention had been made of the fabric piping. The reason this is not much advertised is that most trimmers will make it themselves from off cuts. It can then be color co-ordinated to choice. There are various thicknesses of piping cord available and then vinyl or leather is simply sewn round it. It can even be done on a home machine, but for best results will require a piping foot which compared to the standard foot is off-set. Cost about £15. Whether round piping or flattened is correct for TR2 wings has been the subject of previous debate in this forum. Nick
  7. I have trimmed out complete classic buses - some pictures to be found in this album https://www.flickr.com/photos/21640011@N07/albums/72157630287399370 My tips would be: Under no circumstances paint the panel before hand because the glue will eventually disolve the paint and even if it stays stuck, lumps can appear much later. I use Alpha glue, previously made by Dunlop. In their range is a high temperature glue that will not be affected when the Sun shines directly on it. This is what professionals use. You do not say what kind of vinyl you are using. So called "expanded vinyl" which
  8. I could not tell you how much wear is too much slack as a measurement, but I was taught to assess chain wear against a new chain by gripping a link of the chain and holding the whole thing up flat (i.e. link face upwards) and compare how much it droops compared with a new chain. Takes a bit of finger strength for larger chains but is a good way of spotting how much wear has taken place on each link. Ultimately it was just common sense judgement of course. The worst of worn things were always archived in a black museum. Nick
  9. You could also consider sealing with a Dowty washer, which is a metal washer with a bonded oil proof sealing insert. This will enable you to get a good seal without having to turn down so tight that an ordinary rubber washer oozes out or as in the case of a harder sealing washer so tight the rocker cover starts to deform. Nick
  10. Make sure that there is definitely meant to be an O ring. If you have an early TR2 gearbox with overdrive on top gear only. it might not have one. When filled to the correct oil level they just leaked until the level goes down a bit. I tried fitting an O ring and the overdrive did not drop out of gear properly and stayed engaged, even in reverse which can be fatal to the box if you don't realise. I don't think the parts manual illustrates the early box. Also sometimes early boxes have been modified. Just take care. As recommended an overdrive expert should know. Nick
  11. As I recall, Triumph were very concerned about continuity of supply regarding SU carburettors because the company had bad labour relations and was being badly affected by strikes in the early 1960s. Delivery was patchy. The Stromburg CD (constant depression) was actually part designed and developed by Standard Triumph who I think went so far as to put money into the firm along with Zenith. Having gone to the effort of doing all that (carefully avoiding SU patents) it is of course logical to use one's own product. I would suggest that a return to SU occurred partly because that company continue
  12. This car does not look like a "barn find", but I wonder if you know of its history? Has it been on the road continuously in South Africa? Being a hot climate, old fuel in the tank might have part evaporated if it has been laid up for any length of time. I'm not at all sure of the sulphur levels allowed in African petrol, but I know that it has not been as low as we have enjoyed in this country, even before latest legislation - especially given the age of the car. As a result there will be a certain amount of chemical sediment best described as varnish. Modern fuels will leach this off the tank
  13. An oddity may be, but I find that it does provide an interesting window into Walter Belgrove's design philosophies. To clarify, when I say " Design philosophies" I mean the lines that make a particular designer recognisable even without knowing they "did it" . I don't think for a moment that he was trying to make a modern Triumph Roadster, a design he had nothing to do with anyway. If you draw it out simply in "lumps", similarities between TRX and TR2 are very evident. Looking front to back, there is a bulbous centre section flanked on either side by slightly less bulbous areas containing the
  14. That has reminded me that the Foden 4 litre two stroke diesel, into production 1948 featured an alloy crankcase with wet liners. Mk1 engines featured two heads for six cylinders and driven hard the heads might warp if the engine was shut down before being allowed to cool by ticking over for 5 minutes. Hence on the Mk2 Foden introduced individual heads for each pot. This was assembled to the liner by sustantial studs, and then bolted down to the block. The liner was sealed with a rubber O ring just below the top of the block face and another lower down - a complication being that as it was two
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