Hamish Posted November 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 I have tried to read up in this and looked at various you tube videos Im Hoping I dont need specialist tools inc dummy shaft. To just split OD from gearbox plate. Then remove plate from gearbox. Clean these faces and renew gaskets and put back together. As I say the gearbox works so not taking cigs etc out and not opening the OD to tamper with sun gear etc. It just seriously leaks at the OD plate. Im not touching the clutch either. But if I need specialist tool Its best I know now. Please. ???? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted November 24, 2017 Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 May I urge you to have a look at the clutch when you have the gearbox out. I was surprised to find that my plate was worn as was the clutch release bearing and the clutch fingers. The notorious cross shaft pin was broken. - all after only 70 000 gentle km and twenty years. James Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted November 24, 2017 Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 Hamish No special tools required to refit the overdrive just look down the inards to make sure the splines are aligned (the rear one can be turned with a screwdriver) and as you begin to tighten the nuts on the 2 long studs manipulate the pump plunger onto the cam with a pair of screwdrivers. George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 Thanks George Its what I thought. And that fine mig welding wire can be used on the pump fitting process. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 24, 2017 Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 Just forget the brush on stuff,go rtv Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted November 24, 2017 Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 To check that the splines have aligned do a "dry run", .... carefully fit the overdrive without the 8 springs in place first, don't forget you have to manoeuvre the pump roller onto the cam, position this so that the lowest section of the cam is aligned with the roller, this makes it easier to flip the cam into position. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 Neil I think some of my sludge issues is the over use of gasket sealer squidging into the box. But I guess this is an experience thing of how much is the right amount. Rob I like the idea of a trial fit without springs ???? Thanks for all the help and tips Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted November 24, 2017 Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 Hamish Dave Burton and I replaced the worn parts in my TR3 box a couple of weeks ago and tried the thin wire routine without much success, we then tried pushing the pump down with a long screwdriver and sliding the cam up so the roller sat on it with another scewdriver and it worked 1st try. (As an aside for 2 days work and less then £200 it has transformed the car) George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 Thanks George it gives me hope and confidence. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 24, 2017 Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 Neil I think some of my sludge issues is the over use of gasket sealer squidging into the box. But I guess this is an experience thing of how much is the right amount. Rob I like the idea of a trial fit without springs Thanks for all the help and tips H Correct,blue is for water should not be in contact with oil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stoker Posted November 24, 2017 Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 To avoid the problem of sealer ending up inside any unit I always use an Anaerobic one, usually orange in colour. It will only set where there is no air present ie actually in the joint. Any that squeezes out will remain liquid and so not cause any problems. I can't remember the name of it at the moment but am sure that if you \\\\\\\\\GOOGLE "anaerobic sealer" it will come up. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted November 25, 2017 Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 (edited) Hi Hamish this will be/could be useful, Pete Cox video in the members section. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/past-issue/2015/08/0003/Overdrive-and-Gearbox-Overhauling-with-Pete-Cox-Moss-Europe Iain Edited November 25, 2017 by iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 Hi folks Just to let you know all your help and comments are not being wasted on me. For many reasons I have only just got back into the (bl@@dy cold) garage to work on the gearbox removal. But Im pleased to say that its out and on the bench/floor. Its quite a lump with the OD fitted and doing it solo. What did help was supporting the gearbox on a trolly jack pointing fore and aft so it moved a little with the box when pulling it back off the engine. ( god know how Ill get it back in !!) Removing OD. Will be the next job ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 Very good Hamish, There are a couple of movies on youtube worth watching before you pick up the spanners to open the box of pandora. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 Hi waldi thank you. I have been studying the book and the videos. I hope I only have to go as deep as removing the the OD and OD plate from the box ! Only error I can see so far was not marking the relative position of the prop shaft and output if the box where they bolt up. Hope this isnt critical?! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 Well it might be! On the two TRs I have owned in 47 years this position had been marked with a centre pop on each flange. Was this done in the ST factory because the prop shaft was balanced? Have a good look on edge of the two flanges to see if there is anything ( under the gunge) and try to match things up! James Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 ???? Damn it. I will have to hope the factory or PO marked it up. I thought it was going too well ???? I will have to brave the snow to go and have a look Keep your fingers crossed for me ???? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 Don't panic it will be marked Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 Hi Hamish, everybody has a different way of putting the GB back into the car. John Morrison, on here, made a small hoist that works well and which I still need to make. I use an electric scissor jack under the CofG of the GB/OD. This allows lots of wobble and up/down movement to get things sorted. A fixed crocodile jack may be more cumbersome. As you try to engage the GB splined shaft keep an eye on the gap between engine and GB attachment face - this must stay parallel (top/bottom - side/side) Good luck - it is mighty cold out there. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 Thanks Roger I will come back to this thread when I need to re fit. Could be next year the way things are going ! H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 Could be next year the way things are going ! H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 Don't panic it will be marked Iain Iain Of course it was marked. Nice clear lines in the metal. After all the previous owner is a great engineer. I on the other hand am not. Just a half competent enthusiast so I have added white paint to prompt me next year when I put it all back. H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 I've never understood this either, I didn't hear about marking prop shaft until after it was all disassembled. If the prop is balanced I can't see it being an issue. Good luck with the strip down. Keep us posted, job for me in the coming months. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 Hi Mark I am just chasing a leak that developed after doing a few sprints and hill climbs. Whilst it was on the car I think I traced the issue to be the OD to Gearbox plate. Thus OD and plate off. So I hope that is as far as I need to go. H There are some good videos on you tube though. Elin Yakov has done some very good OD ones recently. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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