TwinCamJohn Posted August 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 (edited) Just checking that the nut in this picture sat on a "plinth" is the one to undo.It has what looks like a ball bearing just to the left. What is that ? P1040771 by john curtis, sur Flickr I have done the test with the alignment arm and after the alignment hole there is very little movement and perhaps a little resistance. Will try some bleeding tomorrow. Edited August 19, 2017 by TwinCamJohn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 19, 2017 Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 Hi John, that is the screw head. It will be tight. Did you remove/release the arm from the solenoid plunger. That may be holding the other arm away form the springs. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted August 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 No, I didn't. Will try that tomorrow morning. Just had a couple of G&Ts and winding down now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 19, 2017 Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 Hi John, I just had a lamb Henry and a cup of tea - I'm fully unwound. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted August 19, 2017 Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 Roger did Henry mind...we don't name our lambs it's much easier! :-) John that ball bearing is a blanking on an oil way not what you at looking for:- Yes that's the nut...it has an integrated collar....it will be tight. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 You say you have been running it in second gear, I would try it in top gear which will increase the oil pressure and give it a better chance of engaging. Just make sure you keep away from the tail shaft and uni joint. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 I did try third but will have a go at fourth before anything else. This has got put back till Monday as I can't believe with everything else I have started to remove some rear suspension on another car and this hasn't come apart easily. Possibly not touched since 1955 !! Anyway it is all apart now with plenty of heat. Not the best thing in this hot weather as I'm in the summer workshop and the sun comes directlly in. Had to give up at midday but at least it's all apart. Just waiting for the parts to arrive from the UK. Relaxing with a large plate of tropical crevettes and a bottle of Pouilly Fumé. Work will start again at the end of the day. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Relaxing with a large plate of tropical crevettes and a bottle of Pouilly Fumé. Work will start again at the end of the day. Sounds tough! Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Camilo may be along in a minute to give his opinion on what I am drinking !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Hi John, have one for me - slurp Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tthomson Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 The nut that you refer to has to be tight, it is holding back nearly 400psi. TT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Hi John, have one for me - slurp Roger Well the suspension on the Austin has gone back without too much problem, Just waiting for the shocker links. So, hopefully another go at the TR tomorrow. Finished the bottle tonight. "Dry" day tomorrow! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 We would love a dry day.............. its been raining on(mainly) an off( rarely) for weeks! Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted August 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 OK, an update. I ran the engine in 4 at a good speed and it still didn't engage. Tried the bleeding and the oil weeped. Have taken out the plug,spring,plunger and ball bearing. All cleaned. Have taken out the valve cleaned with air. The one thing I can't understand is the comment about seating the ball with the valve out. Surely there is nothing to seat it on? The valve will have to be replaced before the ball can be put back? Maybe I'm missing something? Not unusual. Time for lunch. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 John The ball seats in the aluminium case of the O/D unit, it has an cupped fit to the top of the valve also. The critical seal is the ball to its seat. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 John, loosen the clamp bolt on the solenoid operating lever so that the shaft can be turned by the setting lever. With the engine running in gear you should feel reasonable resistance when pushing the lever forward to engage the OD . If the pressure is there it should engage if not you have other problems, just make sure you don't let the lever come back too far or the operating valve could drop into the casing. You haven't changed the oil recently, have you? Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted August 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 OK I have reassembled evrything and run a test. No movement of the O/D. Have done the test with the loosend (is that right !) operating lever. It doesn't work and there doesn't appear to be any resistance. No recent oil change. Oil level is good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 (edited) Edited. Not sure I understand what you have done. Edited August 21, 2017 by iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted August 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 Tried the bleeding and the oil weeped. Have taken out the plug,spring,plunger and ball bearing. All cleaned. Have taken out the valve cleaned with air. Reassembled. No change. As suggested also by Graham above "loosen the clamp bolt on the solenoid operating lever so that the shaft can be turned by the setting lever. With the engine running in gear you should feel reasonable resistance when pushing the lever forward to engage the OD ." Have tried this and no resistance. That is where I am now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 Got you. So what is the vintage of the Oil in the Gbox O/D? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 If all this has failed........remove and clean components 11-19. Remove the drain plug, BIG brass nut. Carefully remove it, remove the filter, see if its full of cr£p.? Check the magnets ( in the brass plug under the filter) to see what they have picked up. Then because you have gone this far....... It could be the ball in this diagram that wants cleaning and re eating. Remove 37-41, O/D must be drained, plate 53 removed without destroying the gasket or buckling the plate. The ruddy great springs will help you bend it if you don't release each of the holding bolts equally. The refill with oil, bleed and test. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted August 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 Got you. So what is the vintage of the Oil in the Gbox O/D? Gearbox oil was changed and filter cleaned about nine months ago. Nothing was found. OK I'll tackle that next stage. The bleeding you mention at the end is the same bleeding I did on the other side earlier ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 Yes. That's right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 It is possible to assemble the operating-lever and it's carrying rod in such a way that it does not actually lift the valve. You can rectify this without much dismantling. It's to do with the position of the operating lever when you insert the plunger-rod that lifts the valve. These have to engage together and you can "miss". The best procedure to set the operating lever uses a dial-indicator to measure the actual lift of the valve. Whilst doing this I found that the valve was not actually lifting at all. It had been and I'd broken nothing and I found out that you can get this together in such a way that it does not work. No harm comes, you just need to fiddle to get it to lift properly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted August 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 (edited) You chaps will , I hope understand, as I have never touched an overdrive before and the following questions may seem a bit daft. Firstly the insertion of the rod. I assumed (very dangerous) that the rod just went through the adjustment lever and into the box. Does it have to go further in and line up the other side ? Going on Alan's post above I am a little confused. I haven't dissembled anything other than the operating valve, spring etc. This means that his suggestions don't apply to me? or do they? I thought the setting of the actuating lever was to slacken off the pinch bolt and line up the adjustment lever with a rod just into the casing and then tighten up. Is that correct? In Graham's post earlier he said about manually moving the adjustment lever with the actuating lever not tightened "If the pressure is there it should engage if not you have other problems, just make sure you don't let the lever come back too far or the operating valve could drop into the casing." Well , it didn't work and there was no pressure but I would add, if this means anything that there was very little movement forwards and backwards. I was making sure it didn't come too far back, as I was warned, but after the lever returned to the original setting there was no further rearwards movement as suggested. Another thing which may mean nothing. I do not have a rubber stop that the piston from the solenoid sits on. I am thinking this doesn't effect what we are talking about as manual operation of the piston doesn't actuate the O/D Edited August 21, 2017 by TwinCamJohn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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