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I think that you have not replaced the operating valve correctly and the lever does not move it.

 

It's a while since I had mine apart but I remember this problem.

 

Set the lift with a dial-indicator or depth micrometer. These days these items are cheap.

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You chaps will , I hope understand, as I have never touched an overdrive before and the following questions may seem a bit daft.

 

Firstly the insertion of the rod. I assumed (very dangerous) that the rod just went through the adjustment lever and into the box. Does it have to go further in and line up the other side ?

The 3/16" pin/drill goes through the lever and into a hole in the box casting. This locks the arm in place.

 

Going on Alan's post above I am a little confused. I haven't dissembled anything other than the operating valve, spring etc. This means that his suggestions don't apply to me? or do they?

I thought the setting of the actuating lever was to slacken off the pinch bolt and line up the adjustment lever with a rod just into the casing and then tighten up. Is that correct?

To check that the oerating valve is in the right place. Remove the 3/16" pin, Remove the Solenoid arm. Rotate the rigging arm *where the pin was) clockwise past the alignment hole.

There should be a springy resistance. This is the cam lifting the valve and pushing the ball against a spring.

If it does not do this or becomes solid remove the Screw on top of the valve, remove the ball and its springs etc, lift out the valve (long rod).

Place the 3/16 pin in the alignment arm and then into the bax. Drop the operating valve back down the hole - can you hear it hit the cam othewrwise remove the 3/6 pin and rotate the arm aprx 30 or 45 degrees clockwise - can you see the operating vlave move upwards - if it does then the arm/cam/ valve are operatingf correctly.

Replace the ball / guide / sring and s crew. Can you now feel the springy resistance at the end of the arm travel.

 

In Graham's post earlier he said about manually moving the adjustment lever with the actuating lever not tightened "If the pressure is there it should engage if not you have other problems, just make sure you don't let the lever come back too far or the operating valve could drop into the casing." Well , it didn't work and there was no pressure but I would add, if this means anything that there was very little movement forwards and backwards. I was making sure it didn't come too far back, as I was warned, but after the lever returned to the original setting there was no further rearwards movement as suggested.

The arm will only come back to nearly vertica positon and go forward (clockwise) up to the spring

 

Another thing which may mean nothing. I do not have a rubber stop that the piston from the solenoid sits on. I am thinking this doesn't effect what we are talking about as manual operation of the piston doesn't actuate the O/D

The solenoid rubber end stop is not required

 

To set the arm in the correct place - slacken the solenoid arm clamp. Place the 3/16" pin oin the riggiong hole. Swirch on the OD (4th gear/Ignition On/OD switc ON) the solenoid should go clunk.

Hold the solenoid arm against the bottom of the solenoid plunge and tighten the clamp. This is the basic setting.

Roger

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John,

To set the operating lever in the right place slacken the clamp nut move the setting lever to line up the 3/16 holes with a drill bit or a nail engage top gear turn on the ignition and engage the OD switch. Now check to make sure the solenoid is all the way up and tighten the clamp nut take out the setting drill or nail disengage the OD and re-engage to check that every thing still lines up then do a live run and see what happens. Good luck.

 

Graham

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Well, here we are again. The streets are flowing with champagne. It's working again !!

The cause at the end apart from the solenoid not working at the start, was that it was badly adjusted.

I would now appear to be an "expert" on overdrives !!

 

Thanks to you all for your help and suggestions.

 

I shall now return to more mundane things like preparing for the house move.

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Roger

 

I suspect you have the same problem as I had in that the workshop manual standard setting didn't work for me. From memory I started with the adjustment lever locked with the 3/16 dowel and whilst the solenoid plunger was engaged loosened the solenoid clamp and moved the clamp down and then re-tightened. Remove the 3/16" dowel.When the solenoid is then switched on again the adjustment lever hole will be forward of the hole in the overdrive case. I think this is what I did but I may have missed something out!. The main point though is to get the solenoid plunger to hit the switch in the solenoid which the standard setting is not allowing.

 

Rob

PS I have sent you a PM as well.

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Hi John,

I took my TR4 to the MOT station this morning, having replaced the leaky seals as week. the OD does not now work :o:o:o

 

It'll get sorted but funny how things come in bunches.

 

Roger

Remember what I said about those seals Roger.

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart,

what you said is what is happening.

The solenoid pulls in nicely but when the power is off the alignment arm does not move back. Gripping O rings Batman :o

 

However when the solenoid comes in the OD does not engage. I'm hoping this is an adjustment issue.

If, when I can get it operating I'm hoping that the pressure in the system will return the arm.

I spoke to ORS last week and they said they do not use the square seals. They use a simple O ring P/No BS109.

 

Why can't life be straight forward.

 

Roger

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