Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Just checking that the nut in this picture sat on a "plinth" is the one to undo.It has what looks like a ball bearing just to the left. What is that ?

36276478380_a527b784dd_b.jpgP1040771 by john curtis, sur Flickr

 

I have done the test with the alignment arm and after the alignment hole there is very little movement and perhaps a little resistance.

Will try some bleeding tomorrow.

Edited by TwinCamJohn
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Roger did Henry mind...we don't name our lambs it's much easier! :-)

 

John that ball bearing is a blanking on an oil way not what you at looking for:-

 

Yes that's the nut...it has an integrated collar....it will be tight.

 

Iain

Link to post
Share on other sites

I did try third but will have a go at fourth before anything else.

This has got put back till Monday as I can't believe with everything else I have started to remove some rear suspension on another car and this hasn't come apart easily. Possibly not touched since 1955 !! Anyway it is all apart now with plenty of heat. Not the best thing in this hot weather as I'm in the summer workshop and the sun comes directlly in. Had to give up at midday but at least it's all apart. Just waiting for the parts to arrive from the UK.

Relaxing with a large plate of tropical crevettes and a bottle of Pouilly Fumé. Work will start again at the end of the day.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi John,

have one for me - slurp :):):blink:

 

Roger

Well the suspension on the Austin has gone back without too much problem, Just waiting for the shocker links. So, hopefully another go at the TR tomorrow.

Finished the bottle tonight.

"Dry" day tomorrow!

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, an update. I ran the engine in 4 at a good speed and it still didn't engage.

Tried the bleeding and the oil weeped.

Have taken out the plug,spring,plunger and ball bearing. All cleaned.

Have taken out the valve cleaned with air.

The one thing I can't understand is the comment about seating the ball with the valve out.

Surely there is nothing to seat it on? The valve will have to be replaced before the ball can be put back?

Maybe I'm missing something? Not unusual.

Time for lunch.

Link to post
Share on other sites

John, loosen the clamp bolt on the solenoid operating lever so that the shaft can be turned by the setting lever. With the engine running in gear you should feel reasonable resistance when pushing the lever forward to engage the OD . If the pressure is there it should engage if not you have other problems, just make sure you don't let the lever come back too far or the operating valve could drop into the casing. You haven't changed the oil recently, have you?

 

Graham

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK I have reassembled evrything and run a test. No movement of the O/D.

Have done the test with the loosend (is that right !) operating lever. It doesn't work and there doesn't appear to be any resistance. No recent oil change. Oil level is good.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Tried the bleeding and the oil weeped.

Have taken out the plug,spring,plunger and ball bearing. All cleaned.

Have taken out the valve cleaned with air.

Reassembled. No change.

As suggested also by Graham above "loosen the clamp bolt on the solenoid operating lever so that the shaft can be turned by the setting lever. With the engine running in gear you should feel reasonable resistance when pushing the lever forward to engage the OD ."

Have tried this and no resistance.

That is where I am now.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If all this has failed........remove and clean components 11-19.

 

Remove the drain plug, BIG brass nut.

Carefully remove it, remove the filter, see if its full of cr£p.?

Check the magnets ( in the brass plug under the filter) to see what they have picked up.

 

Then because you have gone this far.......

 

It could be the ball in this diagram that wants cleaning and re eating. Remove 37-41, O/D must be drained, plate 53 removed without destroying the gasket or buckling the plate. The ruddy great springs will help you bend it if you don't release each of the holding bolts equally.

 

The refill with oil, bleed and test.

tr24_14_07_01.jpg

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Got you.

 

So what is the vintage of the Oil in the Gbox O/D?

Gearbox oil was changed and filter cleaned about nine months ago. Nothing was found.

OK I'll tackle that next stage. The bleeding you mention at the end is the same bleeding I did on the other side earlier ?

Link to post
Share on other sites

It is possible to assemble the operating-lever and it's carrying rod in such a way that it does not actually lift the valve.

You can rectify this without much dismantling.

 

It's to do with the position of the operating lever when you insert the plunger-rod that lifts the valve.

These have to engage together and you can "miss".

 

The best procedure to set the operating lever uses a dial-indicator to measure the actual lift of the valve.

 

Whilst doing this I found that the valve was not actually lifting at all. It had been and I'd broken nothing and I found out that you can get this together in such a way that it does not work.

 

No harm comes, you just need to fiddle to get it to lift properly.

Link to post
Share on other sites

You chaps will , I hope understand, as I have never touched an overdrive before and the following questions may seem a bit daft.

 

Firstly the insertion of the rod. I assumed (very dangerous) that the rod just went through the adjustment lever and into the box. Does it have to go further in and line up the other side ?

Going on Alan's post above I am a little confused. I haven't dissembled anything other than the operating valve, spring etc. This means that his suggestions don't apply to me? or do they?

I thought the setting of the actuating lever was to slacken off the pinch bolt and line up the adjustment lever with a rod just into the casing and then tighten up. Is that correct?

 

In Graham's post earlier he said about manually moving the adjustment lever with the actuating lever not tightened "If the pressure is there it should engage if not you have other problems, just make sure you don't let the lever come back too far or the operating valve could drop into the casing." Well , it didn't work and there was no pressure but I would add, if this means anything that there was very little movement forwards and backwards. I was making sure it didn't come too far back, as I was warned, but after the lever returned to the original setting there was no further rearwards movement as suggested.

 

Another thing which may mean nothing. I do not have a rubber stop that the piston from the solenoid sits on. I am thinking this doesn't effect what we are talking about as manual operation of the piston doesn't actuate the O/D

Edited by TwinCamJohn
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.