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Hi John,

not sure if the solenoid relays (within the solenoid) can be got at and cleaned.

It would probably be easier to just fit a new one.

 

Before doing that you could run a 12V lead from the battery and try powering the solenoid direct. That would remove all the other components.

If it is the same then it is the solenoid. If it improves then perhaps the wiring loom needs looking at.

Dirty/ corroded electrical joints can cause volts to disappear. Clean or replace.

 

Roger

Thanks Roger.

So If i run a lead to the wire that is going in to the top of the solenoid ? and that straight from the battery. The car is now negative earth so presumably the source should come from positive ?

When I have that connected I should do the test earlier where there was buzzing?

I'll try and manage that with the car on the stands .

many thanks

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A few years ago, the Technicalities CD was issued to every member, and everyone who has joined the club since then should have received a copy as part of the Joiners Pack.

If you haven't got one, contact Jo at the office.

Ian Cornish

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At Malvern, I noticed that Overdrive Repair Services have solenoids (of course!) and they look slightly different to the spare which I have and which I purchased from Moss several years ago.

That said, the solenoid on 4VC has been there since 2004, gets a great deal of use as often I use all 7 gears, and it was from Moss.

Ian Cornish

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Hi John,

not sure if the solenoid relays (within the solenoid) can be got at and cleaned.

It would probably be easier to just fit a new one.

 

Before doing that you could run a 12V lead from the battery and try powering the solenoid direct. That would remove all the other components.

If it is the same then it is the solenoid. If it improves then perhaps the wiring loom needs looking at.

Dirty/ corroded electrical joints can cause volts to disappear. Clean or replace.

 

Roger

I had an issue like this once.

 

The overdrive solenoid only worked every now and again, the electrical stuff to the solenoid was all operating fine.

Tested the solenoid with direct electrical feed - noticed it would work if I flicked it up with a screw driver. (Fit string to lever & make manual operation ? - all too Healey to my mind)

 

NOTICED- There was no stop screw or rubber buffer fitted to reduce the drop of the operating lever/solenoid plunger.

 

Fitted a lower stop on the overdrive side plate to reduce the 'drop' of the solenoid plunger - that improved things but not completely.

 

The solenoid was filthy with oil and road dirt - Next, I removed the solenoid and drenched it in WD40, inside where the plunger goes and under the rubber top cap. Thoroughly cleaned the plunger.

 

Carefully blew dry with air line, wiped it it all dry, inside and out, refitted cap, and hey presto it pulled in and worked. Went on happily for years after that.

 

Peter W

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Only just had time to fit the solenoid. Very busy, house sold, new one found and just the job for me . The garage is the complete footprint of the house (sous sol) ie under the house so I am going to be very happy. Just have to sort 30 years of spares and other collected stuff and sell heaps of furniture !!

Anyway, my question is, should I put a thin layer of grease on the plunger or just leave it as it is ?

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Hi John,

fixing cars and moving house - superman.

 

The plunger should need no grease.

Did it arrive with a boot over the plunger. If yes make sure it is flexible and will allow the plunger to fall to the off position.

I had one so stiff it held the OD in the operating position.

 

If it did not have a boot then you can fabricate one from a rubber glove.

Use a finger from one of the garage blue gloves. Very thin and flexible.

 

I've just done that on my TR4.

 

Good luck

 

Roger

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Nothing is straight forward!! But then you all knew that.

Solenoid fitted and works well; Went for run and O/D doesn't engage.

Checked the position of the setting lever with the O/D engaged and a 3/16 rod passes through spot on.

The only thing I don't have is the little rubber stop for the plunger.

Help please !

Just as a recap the reason for changing was that the solenoid was buzzing and not holding the O/D engaged.

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Does it engage if you use your hand/fingers to push the operating lever down? Assuming you have the tunnel off.You can test this by jacking up the rear of the car and running the car. If it engages then ignore the drill bit and adjust the lever so that it works.....wear and tear means the alignment method doesn't always work after 50- 60 years.

If it still doesn't work.....it could be hydraulic issues however this is unlikely as it worked prior to the solenoid buzzing.? But try the above first.

 

Iain

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Iain, Assume when you say pushing the operating lever down you mean so that the plunger goes up into the solenoid ?

Have tried that with the engine running and in second gear jacked up and nothing works..

When activated normally the plunger snaps upwards very firmly.

Nothing else has been touched and beforehand the O/D was dropping out and then nothing and only the solenoid buzzing.

Just feel i've missed something as it ought to work?

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Ok so the new solenoid pulls in and stays in?

The Actuating lever...by the hand brake lever moves in synchrony with the solenoid and is in alignment with the setting hole?

The oil level in the box is correct?

One can only guess therefore that the Hydraulics are the issue.

Have you bleed the system? Open the 1/4 W Nut that is above the operating valve. Its on the handbrake side of the OD unit, a little and run the car engage overdrive and see if oil weeps from around the nut. Have a rag at hand otherwise its going to run all over the exhaust pipe!

If oil issues freely then the rule out an air lock.

If he OD still doesn't work you might need to check that the ball valve above the actuating valve is seated properly. This is below the nut you unscrewed for bleeding. Under the Nut is a spring with a guide and below that a ball bearing. Use a magnetized scewdriver to careful remove the ball. Please don't loose it. Clean it, put it back, then with a punch give it a reasonably hard "tonk" with a hammer to ensure the ball seats in the case of the OD properly. Replace the spring and its guide, replace the nut loosely, bleed and test again. If this doesn't work, maybe the operating valve itself is stuck, this is below the ball valve and again can be with drawn with a bit of patience and some welding rod , its hollow and the rod will sit inside the tube,,, pull it up and out and ensure its as clean as a whistle including the tiny hole drilled in the side of the shaft.....1mm I think.

Refit in the reverse order and test again...fingers crossed this works, otherwise its the ball on the pump side of the unit. This means taking the plate behind the solenoid off and removing the other ball and re seating it. Don't go there unless you have too!

 

Iain

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Thanks iain. i may attack this tomorrow as I have started to replace some rear shock absorbers on another car and the links are going to have to be cut off ! nothing easy at the moment. I had just intended changing the shockers whilst waiting for a reply. Hmm.

Going back to the TR. can the ball valve become unseated if you haven't touched it ?

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Hi Iain/John,

you can check to see if the operating valve is stuck without dismantling.

 

Move the alignment arm up to the alignment hole (there should be no resistance ) and then continue past this point - there should be a spring resistance

If you can feel this spring then the vave is working.

 

Not sure of you will need to uncouple the solenoid arm.

 

Roger.

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This process is fresh in mind as I had to correct a fault last weekend.

 

My overdrive was sluggish. I spoke to P Cox the Overdrive Guru and he suggested that if the ball was not seating correctly, just a microscopic particle of dirt can hold it open then the overdrive would play up or not work. Alsop if the actuating valve was stuck or had some dirt in it then it could cause similar problems. So out came the plug out came the spring and its guide, outcome the ball out came the actuating valve, all cleaned in petrol, blown out with air and reassembled with the ball being re seated.

It now works like it should, in with a snap, its a competition unit, so sluggish wasnt what was wanted!

That Nut is 1/4Whit / 3/16BSF........dont try 7/16 AF

 

Iain

Edited by iain
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Hi Iain/John,

you can check to see if the operating valve is stuck without dismantling.

 

Move the alignment arm up to the alignment hole (there should be no resistance ) and then continue past this point - there should be a spring resistance

If you can feel this spring then the vave is working.

 

Not sure of you will need to uncouple the solenoid arm.

 

Roger.

Roger good point re the valve being stuck.

 

Iain

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Hi John,

before tapping the ball into its seat remove the valve from within (3/32" wire into valve then lift) and inspect the set in the valve.

As Iain said - it must be perfectly clean and damage free,

You can now place the ball on the valve seat and give it a tap with a nylon/wood hammer.

 

You can also do it insitu - place the alignment arm inline with the rigging hole then raise a tad more, now you can tap down on the ball.

I would prefer the method above - valve removal.

 

Roger

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