monty Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 I have a stripped front wheel stud on my TR4 fitted with 6" Minilites. Can the stud be retapped to fit a 7/16 chrome wheel nut or is it a replacement job? Can the stripped stud be removed & refitted without removing the front hub/disc etc? Straightforward job? Any particular stud to fit those Minilites? Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 Absolute No No on re-cutting a stud thread, new one needed along with a new wheel nut, I'd be inclined to replace all 4 studs (maybe 8, both front hubs) ... easy job to replace, but hub must come off, tie the calliper out of the way and remove the hub, then straightforward dismantling job. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 If the stud was stripped by overtightening, it'd be best to scrap the wheel as well, or at least have it crack tested. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted April 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 If the stud was stripped by overtightening, it'd be best to scrap the wheel as well, or at least have it crack tested. Pete No it was not over tightening. incidently what is the correct torque for Minilites & associated nuts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 No it was not over tightening. incidently what is the correct torque for Minilites & associated nuts? That's a totally different can of worms, check the search function, there's at least a couple of threads including one where the seller gave very peculiar instructions as to lb ft supposed to be used. Lots of questions really, are they original Minilites or copies etc,? as a guide I used 85 lb ft when I torqued my originals up. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted April 9, 2017 Report Share Posted April 9, 2017 As far as I know from my TR garage : The torque setting for minilites on a TR is 75-80NM That's what I apply for my Woolfrace wheels on the TR6... now for over 30 years without problem. I must say that the wheelnuts supplied with the wheels were more or less crap. Following some problems I had a set of original TR6 nuts reworked on a lath to fit the wheels. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted April 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2017 That's a totally different can of worms, check the search function, there's at least a couple of threads including one where the seller gave very peculiar instructions as to lb ft supposed to be used. Lots of questions really, are they original Minilites or copies etc,? as a guide I used 85 lb ft when I torqued my originals up. Mick Richards Thanks Mick. Just found my workshop manual which says 45 to 55 but I guess that is for original steel wheels. The Minilites are today's branded Minilites. Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted April 9, 2017 Report Share Posted April 9, 2017 Well Minilites shouldn't flex anything like a steel so Jeans suggestion at 85nm (62 lb ft) fall into a decent fixing amount. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted April 9, 2017 Report Share Posted April 9, 2017 A couple of earlier threads: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/59475-alloy-wheel-thread/ http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/56984-alloys-and-studs/ Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted April 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2017 Thanks to all. Frankly I find this all a bit disappointing, worrying & depressing. Here I have a vehicle built up by one of the most respected TR suppliers, fitted with Minilite wheels & presumably appropriate studs from an equally respected 'big name' with again presumably the correct wheel nuts to go with the wheels & studs. Now I am reading comments from others who put doubts on the suitability of what the previous owner of my car was supplied with by Companys who race & rally these cars. I emphasis that the 2 Companys we are talking about here are in the top league in the TR world so I would like to think they know what is required etc. If these guys cannot be trusted with what they supply then how on earth can we know what is being supplied elsewhere in the rest of the TR 'world' by those who do not rally, race or prepare great cars for customers. Off to my engineer friend tomorrow to see what he thinks, a guy who works on classics of all kinds whose knowledge is huge. I hope I can be taken out of my depression that I have found on the forum in recent days. Regards. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 10, 2017 Report Share Posted April 10, 2017 Hi Monty, don't panic (too much). Things go wrong even for the big boys. I bought an EBC vented disc kit quite a while ago. When I came to torque the new bolts holding the caliper together one of the bolts simply extended like chewing gum. I phoned them up and questioned the torque load - 65 lbs ft. The end of the phone wasn't too bothered - make it 45 lbs ft in that case. BUT!!! the pld bolts were perfect - a little short though. Sadly many people in the classic car industry have simply learnt by doing not by science, practicality rather than theory. Your stud may have been made of cheese or simply missed a process in the manufacturing - QC isn't that common on our cars. Buy a new stud off ebay - it will work. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 10, 2017 Report Share Posted April 10, 2017 FWIW I buy my studs from Cambridge Motor sports, theirs do seem to be better quality.http://www.cambridgemotorsport.com/ Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted April 10, 2017 Report Share Posted April 10, 2017 No it was not over tightening. incidently what is the correct torque for Minilites & associated nuts? What caused the thread to strip? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted April 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2017 What caused the thread to strip? Pete No idea really. I think it was done by the body shop when they refitted the wheels after some sill painting late last year. I found it last weekend after taking the wheels off for some under body wax oiling. Difficulty found when trying to put one wheel back on. Have just ordered a fresh set of studs & nuts from a reputable TR supplier who had originally supplied the wheels to the previous owner. They have said they have raced & rallied with these wheels/studs/nuts with no problems so that is hopefully reassuring. Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 10, 2017 Report Share Posted April 10, 2017 Hi Monty, I had a badly fitted nut/stud a couple of years ago at a tyre shop. Not really their fault. The moment the nut locked up the stud started spinning. I had to drill it all out when I got home. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 Impact wrenches are stud killers if not used properly... what most tyre centres do.. these people just don't care. Whatever of our cars I bring to them I always tighten the wheel nuts myself with a calibrated torque wrench. Not to forget to put it back to " 0 " after use. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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