Mixed bag; new alternator, wheel spacer and burning oil smell...

[TR4TUNE]

Nice day today up North so took the 4 out for a run. Had to change the alternator first as the ignition warning light was on more than it was off and consequently learned a few things.

 

New alternator mounts had to be changed to fit the RHS of the engine, not a problem really, just undo the three long screws, the plastic base and turn to suit. Checked spacing of mounting holes on new alternator with new one and they matched (spacers used on old one can be reused without fiddling) but...close observation of the pulley unit showed that the pulley was a different distance from the mounting holes so it would be out of line---buxxer! My mechanic friend came to the rescue and whipped off the old pulley with an air driven socket and we swopped them over, result. Note that the old pulley was fixed to its drive shaft with a small raised bar on the shaft (keyway) but the new one does not have the keyway fitted to prevent rotation when under duress. We shall see....

 

Recently fitted new tyres using forum advice to choose----Vredstein T Tracs (166x80x15) on minilite type wheels. The tyre fitter told me that the drivers side front wheel had a spacer fitted but only on that wheel. Took a look as not used car much since new tyres fitted and indeed there was a thin (5mm) aluminium spacer fitted. Took it off and checked clearance without the spacer and the inside edge of the alloy wheel (5J) caught the top of the upper wishbone unit on full lock. As we have driven the car for a few thousand miles without knowing or noticing the spacer I replaced it as it does serve a purpose. Not sure why it should be on one side only? Anyone else come across this? The chap who restored the car did it to a very high standard (new CTM chassis, new liners , new suspension all round, electric fan, narrow fan belt conversion, etc) so I guess there was no alternative solution. It drives very well with the new tyres ( I can recommend them) so will continue as before.

 

After spending the morning sorting these issues it was time for a sunny TRip.....

Have noticed that when you give it a bit of gas up hill there is a slight smell of burning oil. The temp and oil pressure (60psi) are fine and on the level there is no problem. Any ideas?

 

On the whole the car is great, pulls like a train and with the new tyres you can push on with a lot more confidence.

Attached a pic to show that we do get a bit of sunshine up here.....occasionally.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mark69]

I would check that all four wheels have the same offset.

 

Mark.

[Robin Powell]

The burning oil smell when the engine is working hard is from oil that has dripped or blown on to the exhaust as it gets hot. Mine does the same!

[peter clarke]

hi ,,,I would have the old alternator checked before you throw it away. If they fail the light is usually on all the time. If your fan belt was a bit too loose you old alternator could be ok but you would get the charge no charge indication depending on engine revs/belt slip.

[ianc]

Sounds as if you need to reset the lock stop(s) on the steering to prevent that wheel hitting the wishbone. Each lock stop is a fat washer drilled off-centre - by rotating, one can alter the amount of lock permitted.

Ian Cornish

[RogerH]

Hi (have you a name),

if you are going to have wheel spacers you really need to do both front wheels.

 

As IanC pointed out there is a 'stop' that limits the amount of turn -

Item #98 http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steering-suspension/front-suspension/front-suspension-tr2-3a-tr4.html

This used to have an off-centre fixing to give more than enough adjustment. The offerings today have a central fixing but usually work.

 

Where the wheel is touching the upper wish bone - with an angle grinder remove any excess metal.

You may only need to remove a small amount.

 

If the smell of burning oil is only when you are flooring it then it is probably coming out of the crankcase breather pipe (near the fuel pump) and is caused by excess blow by (rings not bedded in or engine wearing out)

 

get the old Alternator looked at, get it fixed, and use as a spare.

 

Roger

[ianc]

FYI: Revington TR sells the correct lockstop:

101047 Lockstop Limiter TR2-4 Eccentric.

Ian Cornish

[stuart]

FYI: Revington TR sells the correct lockstop:

101047 Lockstop Limiter TR2-4 Eccentric.

Ian Cornish

FWIW I believe they no longer offer the offset drilled one and only supply a 20mm wide centrally drilled one instead. This does not fit the later trunnions on 4a/5/6 without grinding some off the lower inner edge as it fouls the edge of the spring pan.

Stuart.

[ianc]

Sorry - I mistyped the Revington code, it should be 101407, and they are listed in the on-line catalogue at £1.39 + VAT = £1.67.

Best to enquire, I imagine.

Ian Cornish

[Lebro]

I made my own lock stops, as the standard ones were not big / offset enough.

 

Bob.

[Graham Harris]

Iv got the TR Bitz rack conversion and it won't let the wheels turn far enough to reach the lock stops

[tim hunt]

I agree about the Vredestein T-Tracs, being very happy with them on my 4A. However, I am fed up with people saying "Pity about the overspray" while looking at the distinctive ribbing patterns on the sidewalls of these tyres!

 

Tim