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Front End Wiring Loom


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I'm currently tidying up the wiring at the front of my TR4 which was a conglomeration of chocolate block insulating tape and mainly red wire.

I appear to have original wires to the lower centre of the grill which then split to the lights and indicators at each side. All the earths join together and then return to a single point on the o/s inner arch.

What is the standard arrangement? Should the wires run over or under the grill ?Where were the indicators and sidelights originally earthed?

Should the layout be similar to the TR3a?

Any guidance will be most welcome.

Andrew

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On my 4 the wiring is at the bottom the grill, It comes to the centre and then is distributed to either side, connections are by bullet connectors. Earthing is done by single and twin connections from the lights to the inner wings on each side. Most of the wires are in black plastic tubing,Some just loose/occasional tape wraps. I think it is likely that a PO has done a little re-wiring in the past but followed the original routing, Tidying this up is on my one-day... list of things to do, but it all works so I am reluctant to fix it :)

 

Mike

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If its that bad and has been butchered before then I would say its time to replace it, they dont last forever and its a fire risk waiting to happen.

Stuart.

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+1 on Stuart's comment, and I would think bare minimum you would need to get rid of all the rubbish you currently have, and solder in and properly insulate with heat shrink, the correct colour code and lengths of wire which you can get from suppliers by the metre, including properly soldered on bullet, spade and ring connectors.

 

Do not use cheap crimped connectors or those blue snap connectors to repair it, otherwise it will end up an unsightly mess waiting to cause a problem.

 

The only other alternative is to replace with a new loom which aren't that expensive.

 

Kevin

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Definitely Autosparks for a new loom.

 

A well-made crimp is preferable to a soldered connection for the following reasons:

  • It is quickly produced (with the right tools)
  • The crimp should also trap a small section of insulation, making the joint more secure.
  • It is more flexible (no wicking of solder along the wires)
  • Solder and dirty water (normal in an engine bay), set up localised electrolytic action in the soldered joint that will lead to premature failure.

However, I always solder bullet connectors onto wires, because it is easier than trying to crimp them without a suitable crimping tool. (I use a soldering gun for this).

 

TT

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Just ordered a new one from autosparks.

Not cheap so I hope it's worth it. I added the extra cables in for alternator, hazards, radio, auxillary on dash, and electric fan.

Came to around £320... :wacko::wacko:

So the car itself is worth what now? Thats a small fraction and if it saves the inevitable electrical fire and possible incineration of the whole thing then dont you think its worth it?

Stuart.

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Yes I understand the safety and preventative maintenance aspect, which is precisely why I went for a new one.

It just sounded a little expensive when you consider a new standard one from TR shop is £164 and just over £210 from Moss.

As you both suggested and yes you're both quite right it should be worth it.

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