MRG1965 Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 HI all, I need to replace the square engine mounts on my TR4, they look very much passed their sell by date, sagged and cracked and as I also had to remove the radiator over the weekend to have the local radiator repair shop fix the cracked/leaking top hose connection, the two are most likely linked. I've also purchase a new silicon top hose, just in case that was old at stiff, but that seems to be in very good condition when removed, but I'll put the new one on any way and keep the other as a good spare. I had a (quick) look at the engine mounts whilst pulling the radiator out, but can't see how to access the nuts that connect to the chassis side. I've seen reference to hidden nuts in other threads. How do you access the lower nuts to replace the engine mounts or is there a trick to it and do I need to "use the force" and several knuckled jointed socket extensions? Or have I just missed an obvious access point through the suspension in my haste to get the radiator out and me back in the warm? Regards Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 They are accessible and it's a fiddle. In anticipation of the usually poor quality of rubber in TR repro parts I replaced mine with Land Rover circular ones. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Hi Mark, this may help www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Cheers guys, I'm assuming the round mounts better than the square? £2.40 each not a huge cost, and a choice of lightweight and V8. Also just collected the rad from the repairers, fantastic job and only £20 to repair, top job. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Also just collected the rad from the repairers, fantastic job and only £20 to repair, top job. Mark Mark, where did you have that done? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Mark, where did you have that done? Pete Hi Pete, Northampton Radiators, Staint James Mill Road. Near the Cosworth workshops. Easy to find with Google. Had a very interesting conversation with the owner, he even had a very nice example of a TR3 under a cover in his workshop, along with a Sprite and a Bubble car. Very old school set-up, which I see as a good thing. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Thanks Mark. Just wanted to know in case I need them in the future. I'm not far from Northampton. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewMAshton Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Hello, having just ordered two round engine mounts from Racetorations I have an interest in this thread, the pictures of the two mounts are different, Racetorations mount has one rubber block and two plates, the JRS mount has two rubber blocks with three plates, not sure of the dimensions but if they are different will it make a difference, for example I suspect the JRS one will be a lot stiffer and transmit more 'noise' to the chassis, cheers, Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Hi Andrew, the JRS Landy mounts work very well. There is no discernible vibration above the normal racket. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted February 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 HI Andrew, I'll let you know as I've two round mounts in the post on their way to me, so assuming the weekend is going to be as dry and warmish as promised I'll be able to confirm, but they appear to have fitted something virtually identical to earlier TR's so might even be from the same parts bin/supplier back in the day. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 Mark. You might find they need metric nuts. Mine did. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 8mm Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted February 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 (edited) Hi yes I assumed M8, and have some M8 nyloc nuts and flat washers inpreparation from B&Q. Mark Edited February 17, 2016 by MRG1965 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 I would use plain nuts and spring washers. That way you can do them up nearly all the way with your fingers then nip down the last bit with a ratchet. It's tight down there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ray dore Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 replace with land rover engine mounts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 Errrr... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 Okay I have some M8 nuts too somewhere... Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted February 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 HI, Land Rover mounts arrived this morning, look okay and they are metric threads as suspected. Not going to get to fit them this weekend, trip to see the outlaws up north instead. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted February 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 (edited) Hi all, just a final update. Fitted the landrover engine mounts today. The round mounts seem to be exactly the same thickness as the square ones.The old square mounts were absolutly knackered, po have also forgot to tighten up the underside of the ns mount, which was probably adding to the stress on the top hose connetion on the rad.Top tip Pete with the plain nuts and not nyloc much easiet. Also threads was M10, 17mm AF nut size.Had to drop the steering rack mounts to get the os mount out as the knuckle joint was fowling the front plate bracket and lifting the car.Car seems to run much smoother now.Much cheaper than buying TR round mounts, top tip from Roger and Pete to use the landy ones.Mark Edited March 1, 2016 by MRG1965 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 JRS show two round types, which did you use or indeed would it matter? Ref NTC 5890 & NRC 2054 John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted May 2, 2016 Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 Chaps yes/no dosen't matter a jot? John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 2, 2016 Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 Hi John, 2054 is what I used. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted May 2, 2016 Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 John There was a recent thread on this but I can't find it. However, I spoke to JRS and was given the following info - NRC 2054 is 55mm in diameter and 32mm thick - NTC 5890 is 75mm in diameter and 37mm thick - both have the same sized thread which I beleive is metric - the NTC ones came with nuts, but the NRC ones didn't. I want to try the larger ones to see if they fit but won't be in a position just yet to do so. Bearing in mind they are comparatively cheap ( both the same price at £2.00 + VAt ), I bought a pair of both to try Hope this helps cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted May 2, 2016 Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 John - pm sent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Rich, Roger, John. thanks John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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