NDRAC04 Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Just finalising my conversion to RHD and I am about to make a new dashboard that a good mate of mine will veneer for me. I've noticed that the 3 smaller gauges are mounted with their rims proud of the surface, but the speedo and tacho are recessed. Just wondering if this is normal, and if there is a particular reason for this? I would have thought they would look better if they were all the same - i.e. all proud. Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 my 4A has all the rims proud, speedo and tacho included. Can put up piccie if you want. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 They should all be proud as LJ states Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanG Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Three small gauges ??? Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NDRAC04 Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Working from memory = of course it's 4 plus the ashtray - doh! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul J Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 I likewise carried out the conversion of the dash this weekend, following the link cutting in 5 sections really worked well, the original screw holes were still useable with the exception of the speedo tachometer section which needed moving the 20 mm as advised. Only thing that was omitted from the advice was the angle set of the pedestal bracket for the column which attaches to the dash, I cut the mounting out and reset and welded. Interesting to know if you had similar. The fascia is the next procurement. Best of luck Paul J Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Heritage2 Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 I bought an original spare 4a fascia but realisd it differs from the 4, but both have recessed holes for the speedo and tacho but not the 4 smaller dials. Assumed it was to give more clearance from hands on the steering wheel - especially if early doomed glass? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NDRAC04 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Paul - interesting about having to reset the angle of the column mount. I haven't had to do this, it all lined up perfectly for me. You have got the new bracket on the inside of the bulkhead in the right place I suppose? I found there is quite a change in angle (taken up by the rubber UJ's in the steering column). The angle as it comes through the bulkhead inside the car is a lbit shallower than in the engine bay. I have had to enlarge a couple of the top holes where the screws that attach the metal dash to the dash top, but that was probably due to slight misalignment of the 5 pieces. Anyway, it's a good solution, and as it's hidden from view by the wooden dash, the finish on welded joints aren't too critical. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul J Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Still awaiting delivery of the new bulkhead bracket and the new rack so I have continued with the pedal brackets etc, did you use your LHD pedals or replaced, the pedals are handed and need cranking for the RHD fitting, but I'm not sure why at the moment they seem to be in a reasonable position, perhaps the clutch is a little close to the tunnel cover, looking for a pic of a RHD pedal layout. All good fun. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 (edited) I normally bend the pedals to suit my size 11 work boot so that you can use the dipswitch as a foot rest but keep a little clearance off the clutch pedal and get the throttle pedal on a good line with the brake for ease of heel and toe. Stuart. Edited December 1, 2015 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NDRAC04 Posted December 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 Hi Paul, yes I heated both pedals up to red heat and bent them. The brake needed to be virtually straight, then I adjusted the clutch pedal bend to match the original gap - 2.25" from memory. As Stuart says, I found there wasn't enough room to rest your foot off the clutch without bending. Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul J Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 Thanks Stuart and Ray, that answers my question, I looked at another conversion this afternoon and they kept the peddles as was. I think a tweak of the clutch peddle will greatly improve use of the dip switch. Size 11 work boot, less of a tweak for my size 7. Cheers all until the next problem. Paul J Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 While using my 4 in the dark evenings of the last few weeks i have been cursing the lack of room to get to the dip-switch - hadn't even thought of bending the pedals, thank you! ........ Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Superaquarama Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 (edited) Why a floor dip-switch anyway ? You can convert the headlamp flasher to include a dipswitch, which to me is infitely preferable. http://www.jag-lovers.org/lumps/tech/basics/relays2b.htm Edited December 2, 2015 by Superaquarama Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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