Jump to content


Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About NDRAC04

  • Birthday 10/26/1954

Profile Information

  • Location
    Crowborough, East Sussex
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A, imported from Florida in Nov 2015

Recent Profile Visitors

213 profile views
  1. My 2 valves are now sold - thanks Dave. Ray
  2. I have just found 2 of these for sale if anyone is interested (I bought 3 from Rock Auto when I changed my valve last year but mislaid the 2 I had intended to pass on to other members) £35 including postage. Drop me a PM if you are interested. Ray
  3. Nope, definitely not hinges. You can feel it's jammed in the catch, for some reason. Also, I have taken the catch off the door pillar, and it closes fine without it.
  4. My passenger door is very hard to open. The car is a US import converted to RHD, so it was the drivers door in it's past life. The handle/lock mechanism seems to release the cog OK, but the door needs a firm shoulder shove to open. I've eliminated the anti bust catch as the culprit (by removing it), and it seems to be just the spring loaded slidy thing jamming on the sticky-out bit (excuse the technical terms here). I've played around with adjusting both the entire door and the catch, but I cant improve it. Do I just get a replacement catch?
  5. Worth checking the switch wiring. Alan can confirm it is possible to reverse a couple of connections, and although the wipers work correctly, the motor draws current even when switched off.
  6. I find starting from cold takes ages to pump the fuel through,so was planning on fitting an electric pump. Any advice on the best one to chose, and also what collision cut off switch to fit? Ray
  7. Just in the process of fitting the plastic moldings and heater pipes for the windscreen vents after the LHD to RHD conversion. I now find I can't fit the new glove box as it fouls the vent fitting. I was surprised to find both moldings are the same on my car,with the outlets both pointing to the near side of the car - looking at some exploded views it seems I need the pipes to point to the centre of the car. I suppose on the LHD, this didn't present an issue as the passenger side was correct, but now it's RHD, it's incorrect. Anyone else come, across this? Also, it's a long shot I know, but does anyone have a correct molding for the passenger side they can sell me?
  8. I have just completed this process for my TR4a, imported from the USA last November. As has been said above, you don't need a certificate of conformity. I just ignored most of the questions on the form and only filled in the ones I could. You will need a MOT cert., a heritage cert and a letter from the club certifying the original build date, plus copies of passport and a utility bill for the address where you live. My car was placed on the NOVA register when it landed at Southampton, but they missed off the 'L'from the end of the chassis, which caused the application to be rejected first time around, but once I had sent the NOVA letter confirming duty had been paid, the V5 arrived last week. Hope your application goes as smoothly as mine. Ray
  9. Hi Mike,I am just about to apply for my first registration on my US imported TR4a, so I guess I will need this letter as well. Can you advise me on the process here? I have the Heritage cert. Ray
  10. Just thought I'd add a note to this thread. Just had my imported TR4A MOT'ed. No issues at all with the software, we simply created a new vehicle entry on the system. There were a couple of ambiguous boxes on the computer form - country of registration (we put 'unknown') and why there was no registration number entered (we put 'missing'). The MOT guy (who's a good friend of mine) said this info wasn't really important, as it will all be overwritten once the DVLA receive the V55/5 application register a vehicle.Car passed, by the way! Wish me luck - just ordered the V55 and will let you know how smoothly it goes! Ray
  11. Hi Paul, yes I heated both pedals up to red heat and bent them. The brake needed to be virtually straight, then I adjusted the clutch pedal bend to match the original gap - 2.25" from memory. As Stuart says, I found there wasn't enough room to rest your foot off the clutch without bending. Ray
  12. Paul - interesting about having to reset the angle of the column mount. I haven't had to do this, it all lined up perfectly for me. You have got the new bracket on the inside of the bulkhead in the right place I suppose? I found there is quite a change in angle (taken up by the rubber UJ's in the steering column). The angle as it comes through the bulkhead inside the car is a lbit shallower than in the engine bay. I have had to enlarge a couple of the top holes where the screws that attach the metal dash to the dash top, but that was probably due to slight misalignment of the 5 pieces. Anyway, it's a good solution, and as it's hidden from view by the wooden dash, the finish on welded joints aren't too critical.
  13. Working from memory = of course it's 4 plus the ashtray - doh!
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.