mattyb Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 (edited) 6 arrived Friday 23rd Oct at 11:00 - was working locally so was able to get away for an hour for the delivery. I use Mike Pullen who I've used before - Professional, friendly, reliable and very competitive - http://i.imgsafe.org/bde4c8b.jpg His details at bottom. First impressions - Oh dear ! Left hand side sill very rotten with a piece of "repair" metal floating around inside, bonnet askew, right hand side front bumper end unbolted from front wing and a good inch gap between them.Left hand wing damaged at front edge - Keep saying I would never buy blind again ! but to be fair the vendor in the USA, the car had been described as "spares or repairs" and the left hand front wing had been pictured - Its a long way to send it back !. Mike and I managed to push the car into the workshop - very hard work on gravel with stiff brakes - Mike showed me a few pics he'd taken on his mobile of other cars waiting to be collected at the docs - shiny American muscle cars, 50's yanks tanks with gleaming chrome, a superb XJ6 coupé and VW t2 splitty .......which was so rusted and had the front pushed in by at least a foot it must had been involved in a collision with a U boat - made me feel a bit better. Paid Mike and had a quick look around the car and underneath ......... Result !! The chassis is fantastic ! T shirt section top and bottom, suspension mounting points are perfect - looks straight with no repairs from front to rear, but the caveat is that the left hand side bumper bracket is bent - hopefully the force and damage hasn't been transferred into the chassis. I've nearly got this bracket off - I may be able to straighten it out, but have found a replacement if needs be - I'll take some measurements to see if I can determine if the chassis is true. Floors very good and not thin - small rust patch hole on left hand front section where it joins the inner sill. Battery box floor rusted thru - I was expecting this as in the pics there was a piece of ply cut to size !. Bonnet, boot lid, boot compartment and doors completely rust free and straight - door gaps very, very good and shut perfectly. Tiny amount of rust on right hand sill (but may be more once I have a good dig at it !) front plastic spoiler missing - front valance rust free but battered. http://i.imgsafe.org/bcc60f7.jpg http://i.imgsafe.org/d58959f.jpg http://i.imgsafe.org/68b4122.jpg The car has been under sealed - presumably from new - the inner wheel arches have a very thick coating which still appears to be in tacked and not cracked - this has really helped preserve the chassis and tub. Hood usable, seats OK (split in passengers seat), dash complete but veneer peeling off, some warning lights pulled from the gauges (more on this later !) original Leyland ignition key, jack, spare wheel, wheel trims, no broken switches. Tyres perished but Michelin "Red band" spec, rear bumper straight but rusty with US spec over riders. Engine has very clean oil at - the distributor cap looks to be a new Lucas and the HT leads have been numbered - encouraging - However the points and capacitor were missing - the 2 screws had been left on the front wing ledge and remained there all the way from North Carolina to Somerset. http://i.imgsafe.org/e586a6d.jpg http://i.imgsafe.org/347ed5b.jpg The plugs were lose in the head and the vendors statement that the engine turned over by hand were true. Broken lug on alternator. Antifreeze in radiator and overflow bottle. I initially struggled with a compression test due to the spare battery I have going flat very quickly - once fully charged readings range from 100 to 135 psi - not brilliant - using a cheap endoscope I can see that the pistons aren't holed, the valves are opening and the rocker gear looks clean and is undamaged (no idea what the lobes are like ) but this is in no way conclusive that the engine is good. I've had tired engines that have run well for years ! The decision I've made is to get the engine running, so I can check the ancillaries, clutch gearbox and transmission before taking the head off. The fuel tank also looks very clean inside (small amount of very stale petrol) and I have discounted the fuel lines from the carbs, and hand pumped out the reminder using the lever on the fuel pump. The Fuel pump at this point started leaking through the gaskets so I've removed and will replace it with new. Having fitted a new set of points and a condenser, I checked the pistons were lifting in the carbs, sprayed carb cleaner into the mouths and Hey Presto the engine started first turn of the key and ran for a few seconds ! - I didn't want to run it for any longer as the oil warning light bulb is missing plus the fan belt is off, I've removed the thermostat and thermostat cover and the rocker cover is off. Both master cylinders removed plus the clutch slave cylinders - The front brakes look in very good condition - very thick pads which mean that pistons are pushed right back into the callipers - will rebuild them anyway but hoping the pistons are not pitted. Vendor had to remove the rear shoes to get the car rolling - again will rebuild or renew here as well including wheel cylinders and flexible hoses. http://i.imgsafe.org/fe3e3e3.jpg I've removed the left hand front wing and long with the front bumper - this wing is a replacement and is painted in what I think is Royal blue - the front bumper has what looks like Mimosa or Topaz paint on it !. I'm hoping I can panel beat the wing back into shape as its again completely rust free, but the damage isn't that simple - fingers crossed http://i.imgsafe.org/fddb20a.jpg That brought me to Thursday the 29th Oct and I've not had a chance to do any more hands on work. I have been able to Look at the wiring diagrams helpfully provided by Pool Boy plus a Google search It appears that the 3 pin oil pressure switch is part of the EGR system (along with the brake warning switch) I've not confirmed this but I think the EGR valve has been removed/disconnected - the charcoal cannister is still in place with its plumbing, but as mentioned, I've not fully looked at this. Pool Boy has posted with regards to removing the EGR gear and plugging the carbs. I hope that in the future I can replace the oil pressure switch with a single pin type and splice this in to the existing wiring loom and also do this with the brake warning switch. I cannot see that Martin Robey lists sill panels any more - so I will probably go with a Rimmer panel which I think is a Heritage panel ? I've fitted Sri Lanka "hand made" panels on Morris Minors many times so I'm pretty sure I can fit this panel. Tr Bitz don't have any replacement battery panels (The company they use to press them has gone bust but they do still have the pressings ) I might be able to produce the flutings in a flat piece of metal or find a panel that I might be able to use instead (Citroen 2cv boot panel looks a bit similar !) I think I can see why the bonnet wont close properly - again fingers crossed its a easy adjustment. That's it so far Mike Pullen Ringwood Hampshire Tel 07990773283 car transportation Edited November 1, 2015 by mattyb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Sounds fairly promising, I would make the battery panel as the repro one is rubbish anyway as its a "soft" pressing and the flutes arent very distinct. I would be inclined to ditch all the smog gear and plug the carbs first as last. In the boot you will need to make up your mind with the expansion fume tank as to whether to keep it or not, if you do then replace all the hoses to it as they will be perished and then run an exit pipe round the boot area and back out underneath to terminate there rather than run back to the front charcoal canister. If not you need to make another breather for the tank as the US magnetic ones are sealed with a rubber seal under the top. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolboy Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 I skimmed over your discovery post, Matty and slowed down when I saw my name. The oil pressure sensor with the 3 pins is basically an earthing switch. When there is less than 5psi oil pressure, it grounds the low oil pressure warning lamp in the dash tachometer, but when there is greater oil pressure, the switch provides a ground for the Anti Run-on Valve...not the EGR valve... There's more, such as the Anti Run-on Valve circuit is only complete when there is oil pressure with the ignition key in the OFF position. As an aside to all that, the OP warning lamp circuit is connected in series to the PDWA switch which when grounded by the OP sensor causes the BRAKE lamp on the dash and the low oil pressure warning lamp to glow with 6 volts each.....But if the PDWA switch itself is grounded because of a pressure imbalance in the front or rear brake hydraulics only the BRAKE lamp in the dash gets the full 12 volts and glows brightly...or should I say 'brighter' than the other scenario. I can't think of any circumstance where the low oil pressure warning lamp in the tach gets full 12 volts and glows to it's full potential. When this is explained over here, it's not unusual to hear some disparaging remark about "Lucas"...but I think it might be clever. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattyb Posted November 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Thanks Pool Boy and Stuart - Yes Pool Boy I did mean to say Anti run on valve - I've yet to check if its even in place - should be at the bottom of the C C I'm still hoping that I can re wire a single pin OP and PDWA Thanks again chaps Matt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 If your going to convert it to R/hand drive and properly rebuild it then you would be fitting a new UK spec loom so it would have a single wire oil pressure switch and there would be no provision for a PDWA so you can re-plumb the brake lines as per UK spec and delete it Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewP Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Matt, That looks OK-ish. The battery tray can be formed and/or find a donor. If all else fails, cut it out and weld in a flat plate. The battery covers most of it anyway.Perhaps fit a plastic battery tray to catch any leaks, but a modern battery shouldn't do this anyway. Just wanted to ask though..are you going to keep it brown? Call me crazy...but I like it. 'Proper' 70's Good luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattyb Posted November 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 yes staying Russet brown ! (I'm told its a very "in" colour !) Probably going to keep it left hand drive for now - my intention is to get it up to MOT'd standard and then take it from there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Freer Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 It looks more like Sienna Brown than Russet to me but happy to be corrected! My 6 was Sienna - looked really good with a gold coachline. The new owner has turned it red..... Good luck with the rebuild! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattyb Posted November 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Thanks Ben and you got me thinking ... Had a look in the Rimmer Bros Cat - paint section - Russet brown isn't listed as a 1974 colour ! Maple is ! Anyway worked on the car tonight and thought I look to see what was on the commission plate .... but that turned out to be missing ! Oh dear ! Matt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattyb Posted November 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 (edited) My order from Rimmer Bros arrived Friday (they were having a 15% off sale on Triumph parts ) Pleased with the service and everything very well packaged. one of the parts sent was the sill Rimmer bros part no 850281 - turned out to be a Martin Robey panel, so fingers crossed this will be the best fitting sill panel you could hope to get. http://i.imgsafe.org/d4c4738.jpg Also with regards to repairing the battery tray, I may try the chassis breast plate lower repair section - part no RR1321 - the spacing of the fluting is different, however this panel is big enough to cover the battery tray and at £35 I think its worth a try- Stuart if your reading this what are your thoughts ? Was unable to rebuild both the master cylinders - the bore of the clutch had a distinct ridge plus the hole in the fork for the clevis pin was very oval ! On the brake master - despite soaking the screws that attach the reservoir to the cylinder in 3 in 1 and leaving for a few days, I could not get them undone. Moss do the Left hand TRW clutch for £34 and will look to get one of the EU manufactured brake. new clutch slave cylinder also fitted - the old one looked so badly encrusted I didn't even attempt to check the bore. The rear flexi hoses were very stubborn and found the easiest way to get them off was to remove the 3 way brass connector after cutting the flexis. The rigid pipes were also stubborn and will need to make up some new ones as well. Calipers off and will push the pistons out to see what there like - I use an old grease gun filled with old brake fluid and a bleed nipple soldered on to grease gun hoes - good for about 3000 psi and I find this easier than compressed air. Have taken the petrol feed pipe off and will be replacing this. The speedo cable had snapped at the gearbox and left just enough of the end cable in the gearbox drive to get it out with a pair of snub nose pliers ! Not sure how much back lash there should be in the diff - I fear there may be too much in mine ! but hey, had time to admire just how solid the chassis and tub is whilst under the 6 ! Rear US spec bumper removed (all the nut, bolts and set screws came apart with ease !) - very rusty chrome and did have cut outs in the centre section for the US spec overriders (whichare very heavy ! I may weigh them to see if there removal will gain me an extra HP !!) All good fun Matt Edited November 16, 2015 by mattyb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 My order from Rimmer Bros arrived Friday (they were having a 15% off sale on Triumph parts ) Pleased with the service and everything very well packaged. one of the parts sent was the sill Rimmer bros part no 850281 - turned out to be a Martin Robey panel, so fingers crossed this will be the best fitting sill panel you could hope to get. http://i.imgsafe.org/d4c4738.jpg Also with regards to repairing the battery tray, I may try the chassis breast plate lower repair section - part no RR1321 - the spacing of the fluting is different, however this panel is big enough to cover the battery tray and at £35 I think its worth a try- Stuart if your reading this what are your thoughts ? Matt "Falls over laughing at the statement" ....."Best fitting sill panel you could hope to get" No such thing these days unless you can get an unused Stanpart sill or a very early C&B repro one. You will notice that the cut-ins for the wings to fit against the sill are very poorly defined and need cutting and shutting and a bit of lead to get anywhere near. Also they dont have the correct swaged sections on the top for the "A" and "B" posts to sit down on properly but hey ho they are all you can get so we have to go with them. Your idea of using a "T" shirt section to replace the battery tray is OK as TBH if you fit a plastic battery box in (recommended) then you cant see the fluted sections anyway. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattyb Posted November 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 Ha ha ! Cheers Stuart I guess its the best of a bad bunch ! I'm not expecting it to be that easy and thanks for the tips Hoping to make a start soon cheers Matt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 They can be made to fit no problem , and as good as you will get new. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 They can be made to fit no problem , and as good as you will get new. Anything can be made to fit given enough time and patience Like I said thats all there is so we can count ourselves lucky. Try getting a sill for a Panhard! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattyb Posted November 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 Cheers Neil Rear wing unbolted tonight - came off with no problem what so ever and should be able to re use all the set screws ! - small amount of rust to deal with personally, I'm quite pleased with the Robey Panel - much better that some of the Moggy Minor stuff I've used before regards Matt They can be made to fit no problem , and as good as you will get new. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 (edited) Matt Have you thought about using pastparts for your brake master cylinder. Had my original refurbished by them bored out and fitted with a stainless steel sleeve. More expensive than buying a new one but new ones are a bit hit or miss regards quality. According to the forum. Mark Edited April 14, 2020 by Mark69 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattyb Posted November 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 Cheers Mark My friend and neighbour used this process for his 1961 Wolseley 6/99 (think 4 door Austin Healey 3000) mainly because its not possible to find a new replacement. I'll probably go with a new EU manufactured cylinder from Moss or Rimmers rather than one of the cheaper Chinese copies thanks again Matt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 18, 2015 Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 Cheers Neil Rear wing unbolted tonight - came off with no problem what so ever and should be able to re use all the set screws ! - small amount of rust to deal with personally, I'm quite pleased with the Robey Panel - much better that some of the Moggy Minor stuff I've used before regards Matt I would buy new wing fitting kits, they consist of all the nuts/bolts/Spire clips required and arent expensive. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted November 18, 2015 Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 Something I have been thinking about for a while . When fitting both front and back wings is it best to paint with the fixings in place or fit after paint. If they scratch new paint and expose fresh metal is this not an area to rust away unnoticed. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mustangchris Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Matt, looks like we're both going to busy with LHD cars from US ;-) I'll watch your posts with interest. Cheers, chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattyb Posted November 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Cheers Chris Ditto ! hope you find a house and garage soon ! cheers Matt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mustangchris Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Cheers Chris Ditto ! hope you find a house and garage soon ! cheers Matt Cheers Matt, I will likely get very annoyed if I don't get one soon with so much to do and losing valuable car hours during these dark winter nights....... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattyb Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Had a whole day to spend on the 6 so was able to repair the battery tray http://i.imgsafe.org/bcc60f7.jpg Battery recess had a piece of ply to support the battery http://i.imgsafe.org/2ed4a16.jpg cut out corroded section http://i.imgsafe.org/68e45bc.jpg and welded in a section cut from Moss part no CHAS4 which is the lower "T shirt section" chassis plate - nice gauge piece of metal cut to size - £17.88 plus VAT http://i.imgsafe.org/7e1f2d7.jpg Once welded in and cleaned up, I painted the repair panel with thinned down "stone chip" http://i.imgsafe.org/4f44424.jpg I appreciate that its looks a bit messy, but for the cost of the panel its a nice and solid repair and does at least resemble the original and should look better once painted body colour and covered up with a plastic battery tray and battery ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Looks pretty good to me Matt! Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Now looks the best part of the Car. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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