Door locks

[foster461]

I'm looking at the TR3A door handles and I must be especially dense today because I'm not following how these locks work. The lock barrels are both seized, I cant even get the key inserted but assuming that the lock was working is the function to lock the handle to the square shaft so that the shaft turns with the handle when unlocked or is something supposed to pop out of the lock to prevent the handle from rotating ?

 

Stan

[stuart]

When they lock the handle locks to the housing so they cant be turned.

Stuart.

[foster461]

ok, thanks Stuart. I see the end of a rusty square pin about 1/4 inch that looks like it may once have been able to pop out of the handle. I doubt that this lock mechanism has been used in decades.

 

I'll soak it for a while and see if anything improves.

 

 

Stan

Edited August 31, 2015 by foster461

[Don H.]

Seriously, Stan -- what good are the door locks on our sidescreen cars? I can see getting them working for completeness's sake -- mine do -- but if there weren't locks I wouldn't lose a wink of sleep!

[foster461]

Seriously, Stan -- what good are the door locks on our sidescreen cars? I can see getting them working for completeness's sake -- mine do -- but if there weren't locks I wouldn't lose a wink of sleep!

 

I agree Don, I have never in over 30 years locked the doors on the TR6. I'd just like them to work if they can be made to work.

 

Stan

[Rodbr]

Hi Stan,

I new set of keys and barrels is readily available if you can not get the lock freed off. Only real way to be sure is to remove the barrel completely to clean and grease it.

I look at it this way, the pro thief has already worked out how they will steal the car, it might delay the casual one long enough for someone to notice them cutting their way in. With the door locked and sliding the window wont allow the door to be opened. The lock stops the whole assembly from moving. All about delays!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Also much more difficult to sit into drivers seat with original steering wheel and the door not open. Breaking and removing side screen all takes time and perhaps someone will notice.

 

I hate to see the door handle pointing up as they usually have wear to spare. I made a stop pin so the door lock cam rests against it under the spring tension. The door handles sit horizontal and look right.

[Graham Harris]

You can open the door from the outside by reaching in and pushing the opening cord down.

Graham

[e_ingemann]

The door locks do have a purpose, at least in Denmark.

 

If the car is parked with the top fitted and windows as well, then the insurance actually covers theft from the car, if the items were not visible through the window.

 

Silly rule, however, I allways lock the doors, for insurance purposes..

[foster461]

To remove the barrel, it looks like there are two pins, one securing the square shaft to the handle and another pinning the barrel into the handle. Is removing those two pins all it takes to slide out the barrel ?

 

If I cant get barrels that match the original key (FP ignition key) I may as well get new handles with new locks (and keys) and live with having to add another key.

 

Stan

[Don Elliott]

In the Province of Quebec where I live, and if I leave my 1958 TR3A in a public place and the outside doorlocks are not locked, the police will give my a citation (ticket) for not having the doors locked. This applies even if the top and sidecurtains are stowed in the boot. A BMW convertible owner fought this in court and all the judge said was, "The law is the law and this is how it is written".

 

So my doorlocks work fine and I always leave them locked. I just push down on the inside latch cable to let myself into the TR.

[vivdownunder]

That's happening here too Don. What's more, insurers are increasingly denying theft of vehicle claims if the car was found to be unlocked..

 

Stan, TRF used to have full sets of locks (RFK890) including ignition, all keyed alike, so one key does the trick.

 

Viv

[Don H.]

Surely the companies providing classic vehicle coverage understand that some of these old cars are not made more secure by actually locking them? This seems asinine. Don E., I'd tell the cops to take a flying f*** at a rolling donut if they ticketed my TR for "unlocked doors".

 

(I have no theft or collision coverage on my car BTW -- only liability. Livin' dangerously, I guess.)

[Kevo_6]

To remove the barrel, it looks like there are two pins, one securing the square shaft to the handle and another pinning the barrel into the handle. Is removing those two pins all it takes to slide out the barrel ?

 

If I cant get barrels that match the original key (FP ignition key) I may as well get new handles with new locks (and keys) and live with having to add another key.

 

Stan

Hi Stan

 

You only need to remove the pin nearest the barrel, if it's the type that goes all the way through just drift it out, some were made to fit into a blind hole with a loose fit (not loose now I doubt). Generally you would need a key or a pick to bring the wafers into alignment to remove the plug (barrel) but I suspect its full of chrome cleaner so this as you say would need a good soaking. If its the blind pin then you can drill an indentation next to the pin and using a scriber or or something sharp prise the pin up.

I am generalising on this type of locking handle as I am not sure what type TRiumph used but I have taken many of these apart (re keyed) in my distant past.

[foster461]

Hi Stan

 

You only need to remove the pin nearest the barrel, if it's the type that goes all the way through just drift it out, some were made to fit into a blind hole with a loose fit (not loose now I doubt). Generally you would need a key or a pick to bring the wafers into alignment to remove the plug (barrel) but I suspect its full of chrome cleaner so this as you say would need a good soaking. If its the blind pin then you can drill an indentation next to the pin and using a scriber or or something sharp prise the pin up.

I am generalising on this type of locking handle as I am not sure what type TRiumph used but I have taken many of these apart (re keyed) in my distant past.

 

This handle has a pin that is off center, probably fits into an indent in the barrel. The pin (brass) came out easily but the barrel wont budge and the key cannot be fully inserted.

 

i suspect this handle is destined for the bin but thanks for the info.

 

Stan

[Rodbr]

Hi Stan,

I suggest that a dip in an ultrasonic bath might work as it is usually the spring loaded lock blades that stick against the spring. Bath with key in and progressively ease the key in till fully home, dose with WD40 till it slides in and out easyily. Drift the locating pins out, but Don't try to remove the square pin till you have the barrel out.

 

FWIW I have different keys for all locks and ignition other than doors which are the same both sides.