classic225 Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Hi Guys, As the Tr's body is almost reaching the paint face I turned my attention to the fuel tank. It was covered in a black thick paint-fibre something; As soon as I started to remove that black stuff I discovered the first of many holes............yes, fuel tank is garbage! My goal was( and still is ) to keep the costs as low as possible, so far it worked out pretty good, but that new fuel tank is around 500$, so I bought a nice spitfire fuel tank for 20$ .....the filler neck seems to be at the same spot at the top in the center and so is the hole in the bottom were the fuel line starts, it is just a liitle bit smaller and not as high as a 3A tank.As it sits behind he back seat and in the boot nobody will see it anyway. Has anyone out there attempted this fuel tank swap? Any other suggestions?? Thanks, Yves Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 I'm sure it will work, when you consider a few things: the large hose between the filler and the tank needs to be replaced with a similar quality hose: vibrations, fuel resistant etc. Be sure that you come up with properly designed & bespoke brackets for the new tank: do no cut corners on that one: you do not want the tank flying around behind your back. Finally -and I have no idea how...- check the compatibility of the tank sender with the TR's gauge. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 The tank sender is a difficult problem even with all the right parts. They have to be matched for electrical resistance. My sender/gauge is working well now after an overhaul but I still have a dip stick in the boot which is more accurate as you near empty. After running out on a motorway I now always carry a full can in the boot. The police were not happy! Good luck Richard & H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Also put an alloy fire screen panel in behind the rear fibreboard at the rear of the cockpit in front of the fuel tank, the poxy fibreboard cannot keep fuel out of the cockpit if you have an accident. Place the fibreboard onto 1mm alloy sheet and copy around it with fibre tip, cut out the alloy sheet to shape and adjust where it goes over the wings ( sometimes you need to use two smaller panels which rivet to the larger panel) to get as close a fit as possible, and rivet the alloy sheet around the rear of the cockpit ( spacing rivets about 25mm apart) place intumescent sealer or windscreen sealer under the sheet before riveting. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
classic225 Posted April 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Hi, Thanks for the info, and yes, the sender unit could be the biggest problem. Great idea to make the fire screen in Aluminum. I'll take some pics and post them on the forum if it works and once the brackets are fabricated and welded, Thanks, Yves Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 Most senders have the same footprint regarding the mounting in the tank, try fitting your TR one in the Spitfire tank. If the float is in the wrong place it is not difficult to either swap with the Spitfire one, or re-make to fit. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 I dont think the sender unit is interchangable. Its mounted on the Side instead of top.. I would buy a spitfire one, and with a bit of luck, you will be able to use it with the tr gauge. Its based on the Same principle with resistance. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 I would check if the "new" Spit tank isn't porous before anything. Oh fuel won't leak, just evaporate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
classic225 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Hi guys, Just finished fitting the spitfire MK4/ 1500 fuel tank in the TR3 and it fits perfectly! Build a couple of brackets that I welded on the inner fenders and then build another bracket that connects the two welded ones. Just lost about 1/2 inch of space in the boot.If someone needs the dimensions for the brackets, just send me a PM. I'll try to post some pics on the forum as soon as everything is painted in primer, just so it looks a bit cleaner. Overall pretty pleased with the result and the huge saving, 20$ for the spitfire tank versus 500$ for a new TR tank . Figuring out how to make the fuel sender work will be another fun job! Yves Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 I think you will find the SpitWad of the MkIV/1500 era uses a ballast resistor in the gauge wiring like the TR4-6 So you are now looking for a Sptifire gauge and a ballast resistor - Might be worth getting the temp gauge from the Spit too as that will give you an electric gauge for the TR when the capilliary item goes west and we all know the cost of getting them repaired professionally. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtLast Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Hi Yves just from a very recent experience of mine pop a cheap clear in-line fuel filter immediately below the tank just to catch any rubbish that maybe hanging around in a second hand tank before it has a chance to get to to the fuel pump. I can actually see mine from the side of the car without removing the wheels so easy to see when it may need changing. Archie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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