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Found 288 results

  1. I cannot seem to get the Moss replacement front exhaust pipe to clear the OD Housing. Ive just replaced the rear mount on the transmission hoping that would make a difference but no improvement. Your advice will be appreciated. The pipe hits the OD housing at the upper arrow and is too low for the cruciform passage at the bottom one. Tom
  2. Has anyone converted their car to use a cable operated throttle, rather than the linkage rods? Rather than reinventing the wheel, which I could do, it would be helpful to see pictures and descriptions of how your car has been converted. Thanks David
  3. Probably the wrong place for this topic/post. However, I have this one cluttering up the workshop and am open to any sensible offers via eBay. I’d love it to go to a new home. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-ammeter-Range-Rover-classic-Triumph-Morris-Austin-50-0-50/254270361591?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 if it’s of interest, please make an offer, whatever you feel it’s worth to you. David
  4. Hi, Does anyone one know where I can get replacement knurled screws for sidescreen mounting brackets please? I have one missing and one bent (which I hope to carefully straighten). Any help gratefully received Best wishes Ade
  5. Hi all, Can anybody give me some advice please.... When I bought my 1955 UK TR2 it came with an upgraded engine as the original had died way back when. The owner back then, (an employee of Standard Triumph) had obtained a brand new engine from the factory - 2138cc stamped CT10E. This owner has told me that the engine he bought was 1 of 10 bound for the U.S.. This new engine is fitted with: CD175 Strombergs Inlet Manifold - Stanpart 305744 Exhaust Manifold - 304164 Cylinder Head - High Port Struggling to read the number (see photos), two valve spring per valve. So...I would like to convert from Stromberg to SU's. I have a pair of H6 carbs on Inlet Manifold 305547 which need a refurb. Questions... Would these be a straight swap or do i need a different manifold combo to get the best out of them? What air cleaners do I need as they are missing? Will my existing throttle linkage work with the SU's (the long rod)? Any other things I need to consider in the swap? Regards Ade PS I will put some photos up to help http://s463.photobucket.com/user/apj2007/library/TR2%20Cylinder%20Head
  6. Hi, I’m looking for recommendations for companies who can refurbish the Lockheed rear axle on my TR2.....they need to be in the UK. I want to keep the original. Kind regards Ade
  7. Hi I know this subject has been covered a number of times however none seem to cover my issue. A previous owner had replaced the windscreen tenax pegs with snap domes which are riveted in place. I had to replace a couple when I rebuilt the car some years ago. At that stage I had noticed that some of the threads had been drilled out. I would like to now replace the domes with the correct pegs however I suspect that the threads are too damaged to re-tap ( and hole too big). Question - I see that The Roadster Factory has pegs item number 553837 which are designed for the aluminium frame and go right through the windscreen. Has anyone used these on a steel frame. Albert from TRF has heard of people using them but has no experience himself. I am wondering if this would be a good solution to my problem. Regards Brian
  8. Having tried out a number of different offerings to replace the 6 / 21 W bulb used as stop /tail (TR3a,3b) or indicator / tail (TR2,3) None of them actually outshone the original bulbs. The problem being that the position of the LEDS was not in the correct place within the plastic (or glass for early TR2's) covers. There is a Fresnel lens built into both these covers, & the original bulb filaments are placed at the focus of these lenses to give a good intensity when viewed from behind. So, I decided to make my own version. many types of LED chip were tried, mostly white in colour as I could not find any red ones which were bright enough, The basic design places 3 X white LED chips (or 4 X red ones) at the focus of the lens, & they worked well enough, comparison tests between standard bulb & my units showing a definite improvement. The final breakthrough was following a meeting with fellow Forumite Dave Lacey, who was interested in my project, & sent me some high power red led's which his company used for a different purpose. The improvement these offered led me to design & have made a number of printed circuit boards to take these led's & supporting components. These boards are assembled, then mounted, & potted into the standard bulb base. I have now installed my TR, a friends TR, both with the Lucas L549 lamps, & my Hillman Aerominx which has the L741 lamp unit (same as early TR2's). They can be configured for 12V or 6V working, also -ve or +ve earth. I have now made up a total of 8 "bulbs", with another 12 assembled pcb's but not yet configured, or mounted to bases. If anyone would like to convert to these "bulbs" I can supply them ready to go, but as they are hand assembled numbers are limited, & they may take a few days to complete. Cost would be £10 per bulb. Note. if using on a TR2 or TR3 with no separate amber rear indicators then a different flasher unit will be required as with any LED conversion, these are readily available from a number of suppliers, I used one from Gil at "Better car lighting". Imaged attached shown comparison with standard bulbs, LED on left, bulb on right Bob.
  9. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated, trying to get my car complete for this summer. https://www.tr-register.co.uk/classified/2526/TR23-Grille-Mouth-trim-WANTED Cheers Bob
  10. I need to replace the LHS tie rod ends and possibly the tie rod itself. Is there any variation in quality or shall I just call Moss ? Memo to self. " Do not drive over heavy bits of wood on country lanes." It is quite annoying as I have only recently had four wheel alignment at CTM in Hampshire. Is it possible to buy rubbish tie rods? Thanks Richard & B.
  11. As I am installing a low port head that was previously shaved, I am having trouble with the rocker gear geometry (so I am using one shim under the rocker pedestal) and also with the exhaust manifold now interfering with the block head so that it can't be tightened up. Is it ok if I shave the manifold flange so it fits? Does this mean my compression ratio is going to be really high? Dan
  12. I've recently had some leather door pulls made up by John Skinner for my 1955 TR3 - and very good they are too - but so far I've had no luck tracking down the metal finishers that cover the screws on each end. None of the usuals seem to stock them, unsurprisingly I guess. Could anyone advise on any possible suppliers or if there are any other solutions? Thank you in anticipation. JeffR
  13. Hi all, Has anyone seen one of these before? Came in the box of bits I was given with the car. Not sure it was fitted to my 56 TR3 but thought I'd post it out of curiosity. Regards,
  14. Hi, In the process of restoration of my TR2, we have removed the boot floor to replace it with a fresh one (and a later raised type to have a bit more room in the wheel compartment). When i look at the space around the spare wheel pan, I wonder if there's someone who has redesigned the pan or the whole boot ? If you would fit a more square pan, it'll give more that 20 litres of extra space. You could even leave out the boot floor for the most (ok, you have to weld sheet metal from the sides of the pan to the wheelarches) and cover it like a tr4 boot ? Very curious if we are the first with this odd brainfart ?
  15. Gents, on current rebuilt and upgrade, i dropped my block and liners new 89 mm liners at the machine shop for fitting. They found that one of the liners (cyl 1) is quite loose. The dry fitting in the video is made without the Fo8. I told them to do a proper cleanup of the the liner seats and try again. I'm not too worried or should I ? Advice please As always
  16. Not sure how many forumites use the TRR main website BST facility, and having read a few comments about it, both positive and negative, I thought I would direct those who don't normally look to check it out, and if anyone wants an original Lockheed Master Cylinder, I have just listed one for sale. It was so much easier doing it via the forum........... Ian
  17. My engine builder has started sorting out some of my spare blocks, cylinder heads and cranks in order to build a couple of race engines, one for a TR2 and a spare for my TR4. To get straight to the point, if youre in need of a new engine for your TR2, 3 or 4, I may be able to provide a freshly built modified fast road full engine. Not a full spec but, 89mm pistons and liners, balanced crank, cam to be decided (perhaps what you would like), modified cylinder head, lightened flywheel. Therell be all manner of other quality bits included in the build. The reason for this is that I have a new set of quality 89mm pistons and one with a whole host of other parts. This would be perfect for the owner looking to update his engine, without the hassle, or to the person building a car, but who does not have an engine for it. Price is as yet unknown as spec is uncertain. If youre interested, please get in touch and let me know as soon as possible as this will help me make a decision as to whether or not to build this third engine. David
  18. I have for sale a NOS pair of boxed AMCO 5004 wind wings made specifically for TR2/3/3A/3B in their original box. These are not the Chinese repro items and have the AMCO logo embossed on them. Offered here first, before BST gets a dip, then they go on eBay. AMCO as we all know is the US company that made and supplied parts & accessories to Triumph dealers in the USA when the cars were new. The blurb about wind wings reads as follows. Original Wind Wings offered by Triumph dealers during the 1950’s and 1960’s. These wind wings were installed as wind deflectors on the side of the windshield frames and attached to the chrome lip. Constructed of Plexiglass with chrome mounting hardware and secured with allen screws. No drilling required. This is the items:- https://www.sportsandclassics.com/parts/triumph/rare-triumph-tr2-tr3-tr3a-tr3b-amco-wind-wings-5004/ GB £ 200.00 plus carriage. Please PM me if interested. Peter W
  19. Hi. Ive never had the hood up on my car but decided last night to give It a go. What a PITA! Its nearly an inch short of the pins dropping into the header rail. I did manage it in the end by pulling and tugging on the the hinge arms. Result it is drum tight! It looks like a new canvas/mohair type and probably was a good fit prior to the chassis being changed by a P.O. Ill leave it up for a couple of weeks to see if it gives at all, but is there any thing else worth considering doing? Dave
  20. Hi. Im looking for a right hand drive steering box and column (ideally split) to fit into a side screen car which is being built as a race car. It must meet with proper regulations so needs a steering box, rather than a steering rack. If you have a spare one knocking around, or have converted your car to rack and pinion steering, do please let me know. Thanks David
  21. Now that I have the tickover in control, what is the advice on upgrading the drain holes in the boot lid channels. I am planning to upgrade to 15 mm copper so that it will not block up or rust. Has anyone done a repair? Thanks Richard
  22. Hi all, I'm looking for the following as good useable original parts for my 1955 TR2, can you help? 1 x pair of original Bonnet Buffer Stops (Rimmer CD24540) 1 x Metal Nozzle Assembly (Demister Duct) (Rimmer 700849) Any help gratefully received Regards Adrian
  23. Can anyone recommend a source for meter lengths of the proper color coded wire used on the TR3s? The wiring on my 3A, unfortunately, is a patchwork of whatever was avail to make things work. Id like to correct that one day. In my spare time. Thanks, Paul
  24. Hi I am looking for the correct position for wiring loom tags on a '55 TR2. I've had lots of new metal inc floor pans and boot floor etc and need to fit new tags through the car where missing. Has anyone previously documented this and could share? Kind regards Ade
  25. I'm part way through restoring a 61 3a and am about to install the wiring loom; with regards to the panel switch should this be a push/pull switch or a rheostat? Thanks Graeme
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