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AtLast

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  • Location
    Bedfordshire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3A

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  1. Hi all thanks for all the advice. In the end we took our trip in the family car as couldn’t get to the bolts with enough confidence in time. Will try again this week, making use of local garage’s pit. You all answered pretty much all my questions. Just one more.. I thought that the nylock nuts may be single use but am I ok to just tighten them if I can? Bob thanks for offer of those bolts I’ll try to see what these are first. Is it possible to remove them completely (gearbox end) with everything in place should that be necessary? thanks
  2. Cheers Rob... thanks. Yep I checked the other end (rear axle end) and they are fine. Some contortions coming up as it's hard get a spanner on the bolt head side.
  3. Hi all after some advice. Was under the car doing general lubrication and check as got a long trip today (in about two hours!) and noticed that two of the four bolts/nuts that secure the prop to the gearbox seemed loose and I could turn by hand. The nut doesn't turn on the bolt but the bolt and nut turn together. I've not noticed any knocking noises and can't say I've ever checked them before but it this normal as it seems slightly loose when the car is jacked up and thus the prop would be slightly out of alignment. I also can see how I'd get a spanner/socket on the bolt head side if I d
  4. All done thanks for help. Note to self put glasses on before guessing which end of the feeler gauge is imperial! Still I needed the practice so twice through was ok
  5. Thanks Mick that did it. Yep Ian had removed plugs and yes fan is behind the rad so hardly any room at all.
  6. Thanks Mick just gotta take the dog out and then I'll try that. Cheers
  7. I'm trying to turn the engine by hand to check/set tappets etc but is there any special trick. It's 1959 3A with electric fan. I've removed spark plugs but can't turn it by pulling on the fan belt and I can't get a socket in place on the nut; well I can but the ratchet or t-bar won't fit because of the cross member so I can't turn it. Think a large offset ring spanner may do the trick or perhaps try to get some mole grips on the socket but before I no doubt shred my fingers does anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks Archie
  8. Cheers again everyone for comments so yep it looks like mine (with spade connectors) pointing to the side is correct. Thanks. Peter yep it probably does but I haven't unbolted the unit and wasn't sure it it would line up both ways to be honest. There is a chance also when being restored new that the original screw holes and or spire nuts (if that is what is there) where changed. Thanks
  9. Bob and Rob thanks very much for the quick replies and confirmation.
  10. Hi there can anyone tell me which way the control box should be orientated as some pictures seem it with the electrical connections pointing down and others with them pointing to the side as mine are currently. Mine's a late 1959 3A and I wondered if the orientation perhaps changed. Thanks Archie
  11. Hi Richard thanks for the reply. I've just removed it and there is a steel washer and then a rubber ring/grommet underneath and a matching grommet at the top. The grommets look immaculate (only done about 1500 miles since professional rebuild). The steel washer is very slightly bowl shaped. I guess that is by design to aid holding the bottom grommet? The bolt appears to be the earlier AUC 1335 (closest spanner is a 1/4 whitworth). Can you remember what position you put the extra cooper washer? Also when removing I could hear the float rattling about inside the float chamber . I gue
  12. Hamish just want to say thanks for all the detail in this thread. Half way through fitting mine, front lines up lovely but the rear is more of a challenge. If nothing else it will be a great jig for the side screens which have never really fitted too well with the hood. Cheers Archie
  13. Hi all. One of the H4 carbs is leaking fuel from the float chamber retaining bolt. I've read this is quite common and replacement washers are readily available. My question is can I replace the washers by simply unscrewing the bolt from the carb body and withdrawing it complete with washers (and the float chamber assembly). Does it just bolt into the body or is there something likely to fall off inside! I can't make out the diagram but it looks like the bolt screws through the body and fuel throws through the hole in the bolt and then on to the carb. When tightening does the torque of the bolt
  14. Hi here is a pic of mine... I've just offered up so far and about to drill the holes. Also the bit from the workshop manual. I had to resize the images a bit for the upload so let me know if you need larger originals. The arrow marks the lip of the windscreen which is clamped by the bracket and hardtop.
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