Jump to content

AtLast

Registered User
  • Content Count

    105
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bedfordshire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3A

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. All done thanks for help. Note to self put glasses on before guessing which end of the feeler gauge is imperial! Still I needed the practice so twice through was ok
  2. Thanks Mick that did it. Yep Ian had removed plugs and yes fan is behind the rad so hardly any room at all.
  3. Thanks Mick just gotta take the dog out and then I'll try that. Cheers
  4. I'm trying to turn the engine by hand to check/set tappets etc but is there any special trick. It's 1959 3A with electric fan. I've removed spark plugs but can't turn it by pulling on the fan belt and I can't get a socket in place on the nut; well I can but the ratchet or t-bar won't fit because of the cross member so I can't turn it. Think a large offset ring spanner may do the trick or perhaps try to get some mole grips on the socket but before I no doubt shred my fingers does anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks Archie
  5. Cheers again everyone for comments so yep it looks like mine (with spade connectors) pointing to the side is correct. Thanks. Peter yep it probably does but I haven't unbolted the unit and wasn't sure it it would line up both ways to be honest. There is a chance also when being restored new that the original screw holes and or spire nuts (if that is what is there) where changed. Thanks
  6. Bob and Rob thanks very much for the quick replies and confirmation.
  7. Hi there can anyone tell me which way the control box should be orientated as some pictures seem it with the electrical connections pointing down and others with them pointing to the side as mine are currently. Mine's a late 1959 3A and I wondered if the orientation perhaps changed. Thanks Archie
  8. Hi Richard thanks for the reply. I've just removed it and there is a steel washer and then a rubber ring/grommet underneath and a matching grommet at the top. The grommets look immaculate (only done about 1500 miles since professional rebuild). The steel washer is very slightly bowl shaped. I guess that is by design to aid holding the bottom grommet? The bolt appears to be the earlier AUC 1335 (closest spanner is a 1/4 whitworth). Can you remember what position you put the extra cooper washer? Also when removing I could hear the float rattling about inside the float chamber . I guess that is also normal? I haven't had any problems apart from the this leak from the float chamber. Thanks again Archie UPDATE: Just about fixed it with a Halfords fibre/sealing washer between metal dish washer and the rubber grommet. A very small film of fuel was noticile though (on both float chambers in fact) this morning after letting the engine go cold following a 25-30 mile run. So may try to get some suitable cooper crush washers.
  9. Hamish just want to say thanks for all the detail in this thread. Half way through fitting mine, front lines up lovely but the rear is more of a challenge. If nothing else it will be a great jig for the side screens which have never really fitted too well with the hood. Cheers Archie
  10. Hi all. One of the H4 carbs is leaking fuel from the float chamber retaining bolt. I've read this is quite common and replacement washers are readily available. My question is can I replace the washers by simply unscrewing the bolt from the carb body and withdrawing it complete with washers (and the float chamber assembly). Does it just bolt into the body or is there something likely to fall off inside! I can't make out the diagram but it looks like the bolt screws through the body and fuel throws through the hole in the bolt and then on to the carb. When tightening does the torque of the bolt matter? Thanks
  11. Hi here is a pic of mine... I've just offered up so far and about to drill the holes. Also the bit from the workshop manual. I had to resize the images a bit for the upload so let me know if you need larger originals. The arrow marks the lip of the windscreen which is clamped by the bracket and hardtop.
  12. Cheers Stan that's really helpful mate. Yep looks like my "original" has three long brackets then so i suspect at sometime in the past the wrong part has been used. I'll shorten the new two to match your dimensions to start and take it from there - but looks like I'll have to trim three shorter again. Thanks again. Archie
  13. You must be watching over me... I've just bent my first to match up. Those dimensions you sent seem to match the three existing brackets I've got (which I assumed were the shorter ones) so I've left the new ones a tad longer on the part that slides into the hardtop and will see how it all lines up. Is there a noticeable difference with your three short and two longer brackets? I may end up shortening them all to match.
  14. That's great Stan thank you for taking the time. Cheers for the info Roger Thanks Hamish yep I've got all those bits just these two missing brackets to make up.
  15. Hi Stan erm yeah that's what I thought but I've just got an original screw out and the new Moss screws only seem to turn twice in the original bracket before coming very tight... they have the same issue testing in a 1/4 UNF (fine thread) die. I think the screws maybe the courser UNC thread.... I'll try to fine out from Moss. Do you have any dimensions for the longer brackets? Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.