david c Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 Sorry chaps / chapeses Back again. Trying to remove front stub axles, I have read previous posts and tried most of the methods but I am reluctant to give the end too big a thump even with the old well screwed down to try and protect the threads, At the moment the offending article is sitting on the workmate teasing me! I have attached a 3 leg puller the the vertical link, and tightened up against the short end, heated the link tightened up again belted the puller with a hammer tightened up again............and walked away, who knows perhaps it's got the message by now. But just in case it hasn't any fool proof / idiot proof method of getting the little sod out..........without bugg****g it up please? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 That's typically the type of job for which you need a press Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 David, I also think using a press is the proper method. Why are you worried about damaging the threads, presumably you are having to replace them due to accident damage or wear on the bearing surfaces? Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 The recipe for freeing tapers is to apply some tension with a puller and the strike SIDEWAYS with two hammers at once on the part with the tapered hole. I don't know why this works but it does. Big hammers with small blows work better than small hammers with a big swing. Heat is also good but not easy to get enogh on this without oxy-acetylene. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted October 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 Thanks all as always, I'll give the double hammer dodge a shot in the morning, "big hammers small blows" sounds scientific I like that. If that does not work I'll pop down to the local motor engineers and cross their palm with silver. Reason for all the spannering, confession time, the first time around about six months ago when I was perhaps still a little wet behind the ears I stripped the front suspension, to cut a long story sideways I put the old vertical links back on and had doubts about them ever since especially when I think it was Stuart posted a picture of what the big threads should look like! So I bought a nice shiny new pair, and have to remove the stubs and replace them in the new links. The stubs look good no scoring or wear that i can see so I have no worries about them, which is good as this is not a job I enjoy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 AlanT, Temporal malformation of the taper surfaces. The stiction (the same as you get between two ringing surfaces ) bugger (two surfaces which are flat enough to displace air and so cause a suction between the two surfaces) for example with slip gauges, bugger (just look that up ok !). Between the two tapered surfaces is temporarily broken by the sideways impact (it causes a miniscule ripple to travel down the taper) which if the taper is under removal tension (ie it's being pushed out) will then allow the tapers to release and the stub axle or track rod end whatever to be ejected. As you say inertia is the key and a 2 lb club hammer swung gently with another held firmly behind and against the tapered surface will provide enough of a shock to do the job. If it doesn't work first time persevere without beating it to death in desperation. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 The recipe for freeing tapers is to apply some tension with a puller and the strike SIDEWAYS with two hammers at once on the part with the tapered hole. I don't know why this works but it does. I suspect it's the same process as for releasing tapered ball joints: Combination of vibrations and metal distortion. Big hammers and big blows always work better though Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted October 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 See I knew it was scientific, with the addition of what I believe the engineering term is a couple of BFH's. will let you know how I get on tomorrow. Thanks all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 Thanks Mickey, I'd a feeling it was a bit like that. Some old chap showed me how to spit the tapers on a Mini in about 1969. It's counter-intuitive but if you bang the end of the taper they just jump in tighter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Well, I never knew that ! I had always thought that people that used the two hammer method were "bodging" the job cos they had not got the right splitters. Now I see the reasoning behind the method, I will give it a try next time. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 The right splitter helps a lot. Then just a sideways tonk. One hammer probably. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Old trick for track rod ends/ball joints. You do need two hammers though. 1 one side and then hit the other with the 2nd. Works a lot easier with a bit of tension put on the joint. For stub axles Im not sure they would surrender that way due to the depth of the taper, most of the time they do need a press, Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 I can't remember mine putting up a fight. Certainly did not use a press. Pulled them with a tube and a washer I expect. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Hi David, are these the original stubs that you are fitting into the new VL's. If so then I think it would be sensible to replace them with new ones.. The stub axles live an interesting life and when they are 40/50 years old may not really be up to the job. New ones are cheap(ish). Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Good point Roger- there has been a recent thread on the MMM register forum about instances of cracked stub axles and related suspension/steering component failures. Granted the cars are quite a bit older but fatigue life must be a factor for any old vehicle particularly if it has been used 'enthusiastically' during its long life. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 The most significant factor ill be the use of wider tyres. This is greater unsprung weight and bigger cornering loads. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted October 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Thanks fellas for all the suggestions, I tried the two hammer trick but no joy so I wimped out took it to local garage really nice bloke put in in a 20 ton press and "bonk" out she popped....didn't half make me jump! Whole operation including drive to garage less than half a hour. total cost price of a pint and he really didn't want to take that, but I know I still have the other side to do! The half shafts them selves look (to my untrained eye) very good, no scoring or worn grooves, She may be getting on a bit but has not been on the road for 30 years, so they are quite new really? Thanks to all again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.