TR NIALL Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Suspect the PRV. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Denis Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 (edited) Mickeyb you don't mention wether your car is a CP or CR ? Apparently, the early TR5/6 Filter Housing was/is the Swirl Pot!...it looks identical to the later ones, but doesn't have the built in tube inside that goes down to the bottom of the housing...So if yours is the early car and a P/O has changed to a later Filter housing, it won't have the later swirl pot in the tank either! Or just fill up more frequently ! If the gauge is duff...just use a stick as a dipstick! Edited October 24, 2014 by Denis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 My money would be on floating silicon in the tank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyb Posted October 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 It's a '72 (can never remember which came first, CP or CR), but it's the early one! Interesting point about the filter/swirl pot - the car has a Bosch pump and filter conversion, so likely no swirl pot. The PRV, an original type but was pushing out full pump pressure, so I'm now running on a Prestige modified diaphragm type borrow off my 2.5PI saloon! It could possibly be defective as the PI has stood for 3 years since last run, but as the car runs fine and pulls like a train on a full tank, then I suspect not. Slight flaw to the plan to remove tank this weekend - it's now full of fuel - doh! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Forget PRV so, Syphon out some of the Petrol then Disconnect Pipe at Pump and let the rest of the Petrol drain into a Bucket or Basin,Watch the Flow Rate and see if you have a Restriction,if all ok put Petrol back in and Disconnect after Pump,Run Pump and Re Drain Tank and see what happens.Its an elimination process start at Tank and work back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 (edited) This is my custom made bottom of the stock PI fuel filter. It is done on a lathe from a aluminium tablet. As the BOSCH pump takes a lot of fuel one has to feed her that there are no bubbles from cavitation. Attached is a 16mm banyo with a 12mm rubber hose to plug on the BOSCH pump with 12mm inlet If fuel from PRV is guided to the tank also a bigger connection from tank to that filter is helpful. The filter acts as a catchtank. Edited October 27, 2014 by TriumphV8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 No hiss, so I don't think it's the breather. My Bosch conversion is located in the boot, I have been told in conversation that this is not the optimal position for them and they need to be fitted as low as possible - ie. underneath the car. as my tank sender unit is faulty, it needs to come out so will look into bigger outlets/blockages then. thanks Doesn't need to be outside you can fit it in the bottom of the boot in the corner by the spare wheel it should work fine. JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3739 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Doesn't need to be outside you can fit it in the bottom of the boot in the corner by the spare wheel it should work fine. JJC My Bosch conversion sits there & has done for 40,000 miles with serveral european trips no issues. Cheers Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Denis Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 (edited) Mickeyb...the CP is the early car (with 'they say' 150bhp) CR later car (lower profile Camshaft 125bhp 'they say') had the Swirl-pot built into the fuel tank...so you have neither when your fuel levels low...hence fuel starvation!...So address that first, either by fitting a CR Fuel Tank, or better still the obtaining an original CP Fuel Filter Unit (look inside it, it has a aluminium tube that goes down to the bottom of the housing)...No need for all those non Triumph modifications! Edited October 25, 2014 by Denis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyb Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Yep, I conclude that there is no swirl pot in my tank also. I had a free hour to play yesterday, so decided to have a look at the filter. Having taken all the trim and spare wheel etc. I was amazed to find the minuscule tank outlet as others have previously described. Easy to understand this as the root of potential issues! I clamped the outlet pipe, which allowed me to remove the filter for inspection with minimal spillage. It turned out to be a Crossland 6702 (original application Fiat/Alfa/Lancia). Emptying it into a jam jar revealed a fair amount of fine particulate and a not insignificant quantity of 1-2 square mm sized particles that looked like paint flakes. A quick blow though either way showed there to be free flow still though (doesn't petrol taste grim!). Just the tank outlet and rubber hose to go then. With an airline blow gun stuffed up the end, I slowly unclamped, applied air pressure and blew back into the tank. No obvious sign of particulate floating around in the tank as a result, but viewing through the filler hole is of course limited. Upon start up, we had a smooth, quiet pump again, delivering correct pressure. A test drive proved the car running normally again. Hurrah! So plan is as before to procure and fit new filter, and remove tank to sort out bigger outlet and duff level float - but I'll use the car again this week to empty tank again first! So the question I need to ask, having now seen what I need to be dealing with concerns the tank outlet... Is the larger outlet mod a screw in replacement or does a bigger threaded boss have to be brazed into the bottom of the tank to facilitate? Cheers again for all you help so far Mikey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 You can buy the Bigger Outlet from Malcolm@Presteige,you will also need a Larger Bore Pipe from Tank to Pump,are you using a Pre Filter,a Photo of your Set Up might help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyb Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) Hi Niall, I'll have a chat to Malcolm this week, re the larger outlet, thanks for that - I assume then that it's just screw in? My setup is as shown in the thumbnail in my previous post - A Crossland filter straight after the tank outlet, then through a pump, both sitting in te spare wheel well, with no further filtration through into the PRV. According to the receipts that came with the car, this was a bolt on conversion supplied by a London TR specialist back in 2007. Edited October 26, 2014 by mikeyb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) Yes,just a Screw In Replacement. That Set Up your Running is Wrong. I've sent you a PM,Envelope top right of Screen,Click on it. Edited October 26, 2014 by TR NIALL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyb Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Well it's been a while, but I thought I would post and update. A couple of weeks ago I found myself with a bit of spare time on my hands and decided to try and sort out the non functioning fuel gauge. Just to recap it read just over max on a full tank, as the level went down it only ever changed to just under max. Having unbolted the tank and pulled it forwards, it didn't take me long to get the sender out. Well it was a bit of a surprise, I'd never seen one like it before. It was branded "Rekans" with open contact tracks and wipers. When operated manually out of the tank, the fuel gauge followed up and down as it should from full to empty. The float was good and when tested in the water butt was free from stiction so all seemed fine. Looking into the tank through the sender aperture revealed another couple of surprises. Firstly the presence of an integral swirl pot (a later tank must have been fitted sometime in the past) and a filler neck sized white plastic ring/seal sitting in the bottom. A bit of fishing pulled it out, and again I was surprised to find it soft, slimy and floppy. At this stage, no idea's of it's origin, but entirely conceivable that it was getting sucked into the outlet. The next surprise came the following day when I looked at the ring that had sat on the bench overnight, to find that it had considerably shrunk and firmed up. The size now corresponded neatly to the sender float diameter! So mystery solved I think. A non petrol/ethanol compatible component that had dropped off an aftermarket sender unit. A test run with only a couple of gallons in the tank proved the original fault cured, with improved power and no misfires even on corners - yahoo! The only annoyance found subsequently is that the fuel gauge rises when the tank is filled, but sticks as the fuel level drops. A bang every now and again on the back of the tank drops it but it refuses to drop on its own accord. I'm unsure if the float is dragging on the side of the tank or if it requires the additional (minimal?) weight of the plastic ring to help this happen? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 That doesn't look anything like the senders on my old 6 and my current 4A. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 (edited) TBH the plastic ring looks like the pot seal on a small touch in spray gun especially as it has an impression all the way round it of something clamped against it. Definitely an aftermarket type of sender though. Stuart. Edited November 30, 2014 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 (edited) I think that's "Frekans", Turkish for 'frequency', which gets us nowhere, but anyway. Ah! here we are: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?91061-TR3A-fuel-gauge-question/page3 US TR3A running with a Frekans fuel gauge sender. AND, someone with a DB tractor has a Frekans fuel gauge sender fitted: http://www.dbtc.co.uk/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=printview&t=3422&start=0 Finally, Frekans Shipping, an international gauging company: http://www.frekansgemi.com/services.html Still not much help, JOhn Edited November 30, 2014 by john.r.davies Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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