Tim D. Posted August 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 Yes. Thats why I am going go for the ctm chassis rather than further repairs. I know the current chassis is thin as there are signs of corrosion break through in other parts if the chassis. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted August 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 Ok... So have added more stuff on the blog http://72tr6.blogspot.co.uk/ includes details on the lift and pickies of the rusty bits on the chassis! Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted August 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 So now the now the chassis is off the question is what should I do? I am going to rebuild front and back suspension with judicious use of polyurethane. Think I'll keep the springs as they are as the ride was about right. I'll keep the spax dampers at the front and am going to add the ctm telescopic setup on the rear. Wondering about adjustable trailing arm brackets? Brake and fuel pipes are already copper so not much to do there apart from braded hoses. Wondered about a rear antiroll bar? Then thought about replacing the front and rear oil seals on the engine ( got a leak on the front). Already done clutch and gearbox. Thoughts? Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 Tim, Seems you've made your mind up on most things and the oil seal replacement is a no brainer while you have all the access you need. As for adjustable TA brackets you'll get very divided opinions. I have them and they make rear alignment a piece of cake and you can change it to suit yourself. Fancy a bit more camber - just dial it in. Others will tell you they are dangerous. I didn't bother with a rear anti-roll bar either. All the best. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Hi Tim, fitting struts on the back suspension can give an improvement over worn/old armstrong levers but could limit tyre/wheel choice. It all gets a bit tight in there. Have you considered getting your lever dampers overhauled http://www.stevsonmotors.co.uk/Stevson%20Motors%20-%20Homepage.html Rear ARB not really needed unless you are going to go racing etc. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 You could have made life a bit easier when removing the chassis by removing the wheels and dropping the chassis down onto a couple of wheel dollies. It gives a lot more clearance. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 The adjustable Trailing Arm brackets seem like an unnecessary fitting to me. With a brand new CTM chassis the mountings on the box sections should be bang on for line to just be able to bolt on the standard brackets and achieve the correct alignment, i.e. toe in/toe out, without any shimming. Similarly, once you have decided what camber you want and fitted the required combination of the different brackets, unless you are going to enter into serious racing/competition use, why would you want to change it? I have the CTM "towers" for telescopic rear shock absorbers on my race car. I haven't found any restrictions on tyre/wheel combination. The circuit Scrutineers are very picky on ensuring that the wheels are under the wheelarches and no wheelarch extensions permitted. I run 7 inch wide wheels with 205 60 15 tyres without any rubbing on the "towers" and tyres just about covered by the arches. I doubt you will be running that width of wheel on a road car so shouldn't have problems. A rear anti roll bar again seems to be unnecessary on a road car to me. Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted September 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Stuart, Dollies would have helped a lot.. It was only when I was in the middle of it that the lightbulb in my head went on (I used similar on a spitfire rechassis I did 10 years ago Doh!) Interesting comments re:shims on the rear trailing arm brackets. Are they only there to take up variance in old chassis then? Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Hi Tim, I think you will need shims even with a CTM chassis. Welded sheet metal tolerances V precision suspension requirements. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted September 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 This is what I thought. Is there a way of sorting the shims before the body goes on? Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 No Tim. Without the weight of the body the camber will go positive and make setting the tracking impossible with any accuracy. Get it all assembled with two shims behind each bracket, the body on and get it 4 wheel aligned. That's when the adjustable TA brackets come into their own. No f#rting around turning brackets this way and that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Camber/toe in etc should only be done after the car is fully built and has been round the block to settle everything down otherwise its a waste of time. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 Hi chaps, Well moving on at a pace. Chassis stripped and cut in half. Front suspension has been stripped, cleaned up and painted. Now on to the engine. Have cleaned it up. Replaced chain and front rear seals. Have now undone the sump to check the bearings. Big ends are +10 and look fine. Should I replace? Mains are also +10. They look a little worn (copper backing beginning to show through). So will replace. Journals feel fine but will check clearances with the new bearings using plastigauge. As a bit of background engine has about 55 psi pressure above 2000 rpm after long motorway run. idle is above 20 psi. This dropped to 10 psi once after 30 mins hammering it around spa! On another point should I replace the oil pump? Where is the best place to buy bearings? I heard revington have commissioned some original spec bearings. Finally. What do people think about replacing the front sealing block with one of the steel repro? Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 Tim, Dont forget the thrust washers !! I would change all the shells. Stick with oil pump - I am still using an original with 200k miles on it and OP is excellent. Apparenty there are dodgy repros around... Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 OK... Have checked the endfloat and it is within spec, so will leave well alone Where do you get your bearings from? Moss offer Vandervell and glacier at a significant premium cost. Revington's bearings are county brand and about half the cost Robsport are a similar price to Rev. but with no info on the type of bearings. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 Go for Vandervell. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stanpartmanpartwolf Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 PM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted November 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 (edited) Erroneous repost Edited November 9, 2014 by Tim D. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted November 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 Ok so have done the bearings. Then looked a little deeper. Looking at the cam lobes and on has a couple of small pits on the tip. Guessing it's time to replace. What's the current thought on suppliers. Am considering a supercharger so guess don't need anything pokey. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 Am considering a supercharger so guess don't need anything pokey. With a CP engine, you'll need to drop the compresion ratio, I suspect. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 With a CP engine, you'll need to drop the compresion ratio, I suspect. Not for the stadard Moss kit. On 97RON fuel 6psi boost at 5500rpm will be safe. Though the air intake would be better fed with cold air not hot underbonnet. Am interested myself on how to improve the standard cam without increasing overlap. Overlap is a no-no for boosted engines. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted November 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 Yes, gathered that overlap was bad. It's a bit of a tricky decision. Newman do a very basic cam that they say isn't suitable for PI. Not got the specs here but am guessing it has less overlap. However fitting a cp equivalent would be good if I decide to return to PI. Hmmmm quandaries. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted December 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 Ok.. So have updated my blog on the chassis rebuild.. http://72tr6.blogspot.co.uk/ Contains a few more pictures, including closeups of the new chassis and damage to the tappets and camshaft.. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted January 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 Hi chaps, Another couple fo Blog updates for the Chassis replacement.. http://72tr6.blogspot.co.uk/ Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted January 10, 2015 Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) The diff carrier fracture looks to have run identically to mine. Peter Edited January 10, 2015 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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