stuart Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 yes.. know what you mean about the wheel arch mounting.. Although it is not somthing I would like to keep I am sure failure is related to: 1) use (LeJog is pretty nasty in places) 2) shock absorber settings (the SPAX setup is inherently stiff) 3) condition of the wheel arch. (I had a seatbelt mounting on a spitfire rust out. The rust attached around the edge of the re-inforcing plate only.. similar corosion paterns with this setup could be nasty..) Cheers Tim Nope failure is due to the panel not being designed to take it as its only made of 18SWG steel. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted July 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Sure but definitely exacerbated by other factors. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Exacerbating factors are neither here nor there. Mounting IRS TR rear shocks to the wheelarch is design stupidity of the first water, and the kindest thing to have done to the responsible party would have been to upend him in a butt of malmsey before he got a chance to inflict such crassness on the TR world. Bear in mind that when the shock does punch its way through the wheelarch under stress, the car occupants are like as not going to be facing termination with extreme prejudice. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted July 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Sadly the classic car upgrade world rarely sees such justice. It is amazing they are still being sold. An example that I am involved in is front wheel bearings for mg midgets. They are surprisingly complex and ALL the usual suspects are selling the wrong specification which in the US may have led to stub axle failures. Luckily so far they have been at low speeds. No one in the business is admitting there is a problem. Rediculous Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 TR6 rear shock conversions and Midget bearings alike, classic instances of where marque clubs should put their foot down on behalf of the membership. But they don't, fear is a great motivator . . . . and the average committee member of the average car club isn't in the the business of rocking boats, and has a well developed fear of shadows. Goes with the territory. Unhappy customers feeding the odd dubious supplier with a knuckle butty or three might go a long way towards concentrating minds. If someone feels it appropriate to offer me potentially lethal components, that seems more than adequate justification for my taking a robust response. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobIsaacson Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 To add my bit; I had a new chassis from CTM 4 years ago. Last year I was involved in a nasty accident on the way to the International. I'm bl**dy glad I had a new chassis a few years earlier!!! I very much doubt I'd be here otherwise. No brainer! If you go to visit CTM, ask Colin to show you my car ;-) Spring 2015 is my date to be back on the road and I can't wait!!! Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DJF Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 I had my chassis shot blasted and then primed. I knew it would need a few repairs but when it came back I realised how bad it really was, plates everywhere, thin metal etc. Bit the bullet and ordered a new chassis from CTM Received chassis (4A) a couple of months ago and really is the dogs ....cks. Now painted it looks even better. Can't wait to start re-assembling the running gear on a sound chassis, will also make the task of aligning doors etc far easier (i hope) Agreement was that I sent both turrets and hump from the old chassis; Colin then assesses condition and if OK returns the £500 surcharge. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted August 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 Sounds good. Think I may bite the bullet Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted August 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Hi Chaps, So have begun the chassis replacement process.. After looking around loads I couldn't really find a decent online resource that detailed the process.. I thought this was a shame, so i have started a blog. http://72tr6.blogspot.co.uk/ Please take a look and let me know if I have missed anything. All has gone much better than I had expected with only one corroded bolt (Which I had to cut out!) One or two surprises as well. 1) chassis to body bolts in front of footwell missing 2) tubular crossbrace under boot missing! For the record ut has taken about 5 hours to get to a stage where the body can be lifted from the chassis. This weekend I am going to attempt to separate the two :-) cheers tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Hi Tim, do not forget to put a brace between each door 'A & B' post to stop the body folding in half. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted August 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Got the doors locked in place.. Hopefull should be enough Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Makes a big difference to the weight so I removed doors,boot and bonnet. Then easily manhandled by 2 . Even more important when replacing body back onto chassis. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted August 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Sure. But am lifting it myself using jacks. Have removed bonnet and boot lid. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Hi Tim, the doors should hold it in place but I personally wouldn't trust it. However, good luck on your project. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Got the doors locked in place.. Hopefull should be enough Tim Tim It will move and then no going back,take Rogers point above Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted August 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the advice but too late... Monitored the door gaps during the lift and there was V minimal movement (1 mm at most).. In some ways I am not too worried as the gaps we pretty god awful before (not surprising given the state of the chassis).. Interestingly they seemed to be the reverse of what I expected from reading the forum, slightly wider at the bottom than the top.. Cheers Tim Edited August 29, 2014 by Tim D. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 ....that was quick. I hope it all goes well. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted August 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Just over 5 hours work time from start to initial lift. Went well enough to make me think this would be a reasonable approach to any suspension rebuild. Even if your chassis wasn't knackered. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Hi Tim, taking it apart is one thing, putting it back is another. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted August 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 Yes could be fun. Will put it in the blog. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted August 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 Now the chassis is off I have a few interesting observations. First, on both sides the trailing arm attachment section of the chassis are extensively patched. Thre patches are pretty nasty with the exposed outer ends rusted through. And on the inside one is not attached at the top. Also while standing on the centre of the chassis and bouncing up and down (Don't ask why) one front suspension moves while the other doesn't move very much at all. Something is frozen. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matttnz Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 Maybe it will be a good approach to a suspension rebuild :/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 You problem now is that you have no idea what angle the rear tubes should be at. You do know they are most probably wrong. You can get the dimensions and angles from the workshop manual. If you do enough measuring, you can probably recover. OR you can let a bloke with a jig do it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted August 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 Don't worry. Planning on replacing with a ctm chassis. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 Wise move Tim. That amount of historical repair and subsequent corrosion guarantees considerable internal rusting and metal thickness reduction elsewhere. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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