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TR6 Accuspark and non ballast coil fitment & engine not firing


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Chaps,

 

I need some expert advice.

 

I took my TR6 after having an Accuspark elec ignition fitted (with a non ballast coil to keep the voltage at 12v) about a week ago...).. I have a 22D type distributor....

 

I took it out for a spin to see a chap about some bodywork I wanted them to do for me, and on my return journey, everything was fine, then the engine failed to fire on all 6, fell to 5,4,3,2,1 then none in about 200 metres. And has failed to fire since...

 

I have sent away the Accusoark and on their test bed it is perfectly ok, and are sending it back to me. I have tested the coil at a garage today and runs another car perfectly well.....

 

I hear a lot about these rotor arms...I have a black one, well actually I have two!! But they are just a piece of metal spinning round, how can they fail and do any of you think that this is the cause as I bet my butt, when I refit this Accuspark thing, it will not fire, not for one minute.....

 

Can you please tell me though in the related matter of reversion to points and condenser, what connections from the coil go where...? Exactly where..?

 

I can power it with a lead wired from the fuse box, albeit, that is a tiny fusebox.......what about the negative side, what goes on there, What lead goes to the low tension connection on the side of the dizzy, pos or neg?

 

Thank you in advance for any help as I have been so threadbare with this vehicle, I have go on with the bodywork myself and completed it in the last 2 days as I cannot move it!

 

David

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The rotor arm can fail.........Some after market units have a reputation for doing so. The plastic is of poor quality in that it 'breaks down" electrically alowing the spark to pass through it and earth on the distributor spindle. The distributor cap can be damaged and suffer a hairline crack which will allow the spark to earth on the distributor. Changing to electronic ignition provides a "more powerful spark" which can then find a path to earth as through a rotor arm that previousley worked ok with the old system.

Wiring connections .....69 TR6.... power comes from the ignition switch through a white wire to a fuse which has 2 x green wires connected to the opposite side. The same colour white wire leading to the fuse goes on to feed the positive side of the coil. the negative side of the coil connects to the distributor. You can pull wiring diagrams from the net which are easy to follow. Later model will differ.

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Peter,

 

Thank you, so in essence there are only two occupied connections on the coil with wires from it, power, in my case to the fuse box, and negative to the low tension lead going into the distributor....

 

I cannot think of anything else it can possibly be, and it was running perfectly till it broke down and was a gradual loss of firing cylinders....

 

Dont want to touch anything else if its something as simple as a rotor arm! The old black ones, may as well throw them out!!

 

Thank you, I will try and source a good red rotor arm today!!

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Get your rotor atm from the Distributor Doctor to be sure its a good one.

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I am using an accuspark unit in my TR3, & have had no problems. I would suspect the rotor arm firstly, then distributer cap.

I carry a spare Accuspark unit in the car - just in case, on the grounds that it will be much quicker & easier to change to a new unit than it would be to re-fit points & condenser, then set the gap, & adjust timing all on the roadside !

 

Finaly coils can fail after they get hot, (I have had this on a boat engine) so just because it ran on another car (for a short time presumably) does not mean it's OK.

 

Good luck

Bob.

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Dumb question maybe, but are you sure it's not a fuel problem (lack of fuel)?

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'Afternoon !

 

really you want to be systematic about fault finding, your car's symptoms could be electrical or fuel related.

 

the Coil, Dist Cap, Rotor and electronic ignition components do all fail, as do HT leads.

 

But with such a rapid failure as you describe my money is on rotor or dist cap.

 

Unless of course its fuel not electrics!

 

These cars are very basis ignition wise, but the PI system is a little more 'specialised'

 

So, unless you have a friendly 'expert' locally to guide you?, then star with dist cap and rotor, these are worthwhile spares to keep anyway.

 

The accuspark units are well regarded, despite being very cheap.

 

HTH

 

steve

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Chaps,

 

It was the rotor arm.....I am au fait with the PI system and had amny a to-do with the goings on of it. There is immense pressure there, so no issue. I went to Camberley Auto Factors and got a **** rotor arm at £2.60 and changed to points, condenser and this rotor arm and it fired on the first start of the key.....

 

.....I ran into the house and after many hallelujah's I got onto the net, rang the Distributor Doctor chap up and ordered a red one for my car, it will be here in a couple of days....I will use the £2.60 one as a spare.......its black in colour therefore I have to assume it is suspect....made by Intermotor.....

 

Accuspark is in the post on the way back to me.........please allude, the points and condenser push out FAR more power than the electronic unit.....it feels pedestrian compared to the points and condenser.....!!! Why is this? Either way I had a bundle of fun in it this afternoon......anyone near Salisbury seeing a red TR6 with a bloke with glasses on and hair on fire - that was me....sorry for the looning about - almost had the backend out on a couple of roundabouts (?!!), yes the power gains are significant....but there needs to be some retarding....some pinking occurring when O/D engaged...

 

Lesson learnt.........

 

Thank you for all your advice....

 

I need a period radio....there is a gap in my car...anyone know of any going?

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I have not received it back in the post yet so it is running on points and condenser, and I have to say, it is truly performing like it has never performed before....the pick up, acceleration and noise is absolutely fabulous....back end drops, nose up and its off.....like a shot....

 

Thinking I might only keep the accuspark if there is a further issue by keeping it in the glove box....!!!

 

I think the red rotor arm is really helping with the strength of thr spark though...

 

It has NEVER performed like it is today... :-))))))))))))))

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David,

 

I think the point Pete was making above, is that the distributor will need re-timing when the Accuspark is fitted compared with the points.

 

If you have not timed it since fitting the points, it would indicate that it was not timed correctly with the Accuspark.

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

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anyone near Salisbury seeing a red TR6 with a bloke with glasses on and hair on fire - that was me....sorry for the looning about - almost had the backend out on a couple of roundabouts

Although that could have been me, I also did some looning round Salisbury :rolleyes:

 

David, if you live in the Salisbury area, and ever need to borrow something for fault finding, or general extra pair of hands just let me know I live in the centre..

 

Rich

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