MilesA Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 The peg shown in the photo has become loose - it is the one that screws through the top of the roll and into the scuttle - the securing hole has become enlarged (I have tried a new peg without any improvement). It gets quite a lot of use with the tonneau coming on and off. As it is of the self tapping variety I assume I cannot get access below the scuttle to replace it with the version that uses a nut. I have used a couple of different bodges on other occasions but wondered if there is a 'professional' (ie permanent) solution. Thanks Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Hi Miles ~ If you coated the thread with superglue and allow it to set would this do the trick? Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Lay Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 The thing I have used on many occasions like this is a 'Nutsert Tool', look it up on ebay & youtube and all will become obvious. It has got me out of many 'holes' in the past getting fixings on blind panels. It's one of those tools that you don't use for ages and then wonder how you would manage without it. A self tapping fastener should screw in to the right size nutsert with no problem Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Nigels nutsert solution would be one optiion although it would mean drilling quite a big hole to take the insert. There is a closed channel running the width of the scuttle that makes access to those holes impossible without drilling into the channel which would be another option so that you can get a washer and a nut onto a threaded stud. A third option is to weld up the hole and re-drill it but that is also harder when you dont have access to the underside. You might get away with just a quck hit with the MIG at the edge of the hole to add a bit more metal for the screw to bite. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 A long shot, but if your 3A is like my 3 then there is a wooden insert behind the metal, & it's probably the wood which has opened out. You can get self tap versions of the pegs with long threads, or short threads. the long ones have around 20 - 25 mm of screw thread. If your peg is shorter than this, then a long one shoud fix. Otherwise Tom's suggestion of Cyanoacrylate might just be an easy fix. Bob. P.S. When I built up my 3, I drilled out, & plugged with dowls any holes in the various wooden parts which were on the large side, then drilled out to suit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 A hard wool dowel would do the trick put in with some wood glue if yours is a pre 60K with the wood under the scuttle. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Find a longish self-tapper that will fit nicely in the scuttle hole. Drill into the peg so as to fit the self-tapper. Drive it into the peg and take it out. Grind the head off the self-tapper and screw the ground end into the peg. This won't be easy if the peg is hardened. Is it? You can check by trying to file it a little. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Took me several reads to work out the above ! You are suggesting replacing the threaded portion of the Lift the dot peg with a longer one made from a self tapping screw. Sounds tricky. I believe the self tap style pegs come in two sorts, brass treads, or hardened steel (the brass ones were intended for screwing into wood, the steel for literaly self tapping into steel sheet) It is certainly worth considering, but I would check out what is available off the shelf first. Try Woolies for the fixings http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-58-lift-the-dot.aspx Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Well you'd need to be able to centre drill a small round part accurately. This is easy for me, if its not hardened. As I read it, the problem is with the scuttle not the peg. Its an easy fix if its backed by wood - glue, matchsticks etc. But if its blind self-tap in metal, well not so easy. I might make the whole thing from scratch I suppose. I dont know this part exactly, diameter etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR24178 Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 This reminds me of our Brittany trip last year. A tenax fastener came out of the door still attached to the curtain, bugger I was heard to say! The wood would not hold the screw, we visited the super market and came back armed with a small pack of 2 part epoxy glue and also some tiny wall plugs. I tried the wall plug first, it did the job so well I had forgotten about our repair, the epoxy glue remains in the travelling tool kit!! John Worthing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 If it's post 60k, it doesn't have a wood backing so the epoxy solution is probably the best bet - or the dab of weld. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Welding will be fine. Except you will have to ensure that no spatter reaches the windscreen or makes holes in the seats. Also there will be some paint loss. And you will need to grind it flat or course. Then there is drilling weld, which can harden if it cools quick, in the right place without skidding about. Epoxy will work. But maybe not for long. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted February 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 Thanks guys. A learning experience as usual: didn't know about the wooden insert and never heard of the Nutsert tool, which looks really useful. Mine is post is post 60k so unfortunately it (probably) will not have the wooden backing (will check anyway). Welding is not an option (I can just about solder!) and I will save Alan's suggestion for when I have more time. So will probably start with a small plug (used previously) and a dollop of Epoxy (not used previously) before working back up the list. Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 Hi Miles, I would suggest that instead of Epoxy you use JB Weld and mix a small batch, drizzle it into the hole, then dip the screw into the remains of the mix and run the screw into the hole about three threads shy of tight leave it for 15 minutes and then button it up. Keep checking the residue of the mix for the point it starts to "go off" i.e thicken up. Just coating screw thread and then screwing it in may just be enough as well, both these do work and it careful invisible. Pretty certain that you will find that your dash rail is a hollow square tube. Rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted February 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 Thanks Rod - that sounds like experience talking! Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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