RobinTR6 Posted August 3, 2013 Report Share Posted August 3, 2013 Ok had a look at previous posts and cant see the answer. I have a TR6 and am adding an electric fan (the past few hot days have allowed the temp to get 3/4 along gauge without sitting in a jam...). So am planning to use a relay and have an override switch (just in case). There is a thermo switch fitted to the stainless bottom hose. My question is ...whats the best way to wire the fan :- is it best from a permanent live or should it be switched via ignition how to fit the override switch ie how to wire it I had planned to run the fan from a permanent live to the thermo switch then to +ve on the fan:- and the override via the relay direct to the +ve side of the fan:- Not convinced this is best so wondered what others have done. Any ideas appreciated, thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 3, 2013 Report Share Posted August 3, 2013 Robin Excuse my drawing but here you go Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted August 3, 2013 Report Share Posted August 3, 2013 BANG! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted August 3, 2013 Report Share Posted August 3, 2013 (edited) Robin Excuse my drawing but here you go Nought wrong with that drawing Neil Cheers Guy More info See TT comments http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/16924-new-fan-wiring-help/ Edited August 3, 2013 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 3, 2013 Report Share Posted August 3, 2013 (edited) Guy Time flies by no idea what AT is on about Edited August 3, 2013 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted August 3, 2013 Report Share Posted August 3, 2013 Guy Time flies by no idea what AT is on about Neil, Caramba that was in 2008 !! ...JC And its still working without issues Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davidw Posted August 3, 2013 Report Share Posted August 3, 2013 It's normally unlikely to happen but I would avoid a direct battery feed as the fan can then continue running after you have switched or even start spontaneously on a very hot day ( as in those recently experienced) leading to a depleted battery. Go via the ignition fused circuit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 3, 2013 Report Share Posted August 3, 2013 (edited) I have mine permanently live (fused naturally) deliberately so as to avoid heat soak problems when shutting down, at least in theory and it seems to work fine. The weather would have to get pretty hot to trigger the thermoswitch without the engine running. We don't have many 80 degree Centigrade days around here. Edited August 3, 2013 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted August 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Thanks chaps, I'm on the case. Had the Revotec kit before on an earlier car, got it at the NEC for £100, now however price has rocketed I'll buy a 14ins fan (flebay £20) , fabricate some brackets a la Revotec and fit and do wiring as directed here, will be quids in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR Paul Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Hi Robin, My TR6 has a Kenlowe, fitted by a PO; Every electric fan I've fitted to cars(including my current A35) has come from my local scrapyard; most cost effective, enviromentally sound & satisfying!!! All the best, Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Hi Neil, I think what Alan is pointing out is that you have one side of the override switch going to earth. In the non-override position and with the thermoswitch closed you will be shorting your fused supply direct to earth through the override switch. Simply disconnect the earth wire from the switch and use the switch as a simple on/off toggle. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 The earth is so that the switch illumination works, it doesn't short the supply. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Thanks Pete, That explains all. So the switch isn't a changeover switch but a simple on/off. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 I assume so. I have a minor annoyance with my setup in that the override switch switches an earth so I can't use the switch illumination. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 (edited) Years ago the electric fan on my 6 started blowing fuses on cut-in. so I fitted a double feed via 2 independant circuits, one via ignition and one direct feed, both fused and relay equipped. for that I added a 2nd fusebox fed by 2 circuits. It was a rather complex system and I don't remember how I did it, age related. But it works now for about 8 years, hope it stays like that. In the mean time I have replaced the problem fan. The most simple way in fact is to switch the fan by hand and to forget about the thermo switch, as an old practice I do that anyway as soon as a potential overheating situation sticks it's head up Edited August 4, 2013 by jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davidw Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Years ago the electric fan on my 6 started blowing fuses on cut-in. so I fitted a double feed via 2 independant circuits, one via ignition and one direct feed, both fused and relay equipped. for that I added a 2nd fusebox fed by 2 circuits. It was a rather complex system and I don't remember how I did it, age related. But it works now for about 8 years, hope it stays like that.In the mean time I have replaced the problem fan.The most simple way in fact is to switch the fan by hand and to forget about the thermo switch, as an old practice I do that anyway as soon as a potential overheating situation sticks it's head up I agree, Jean. I figure a thermo switch is another place for coolant to leak from! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tthomson Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 (edited) Time passes and new ideas arise. In the end my own system is quite different to that I suggested in the previous thread, but mainly for the same reason as noted - switching earths doesn't allow the LED in the switch to illuminate. TT This stupid editor does not allow me to drag and drop images into the editing space, despite me trying four different image formats, so much for 21st century technology! So much as I'd like to share my suggested solution. it is stuck on my 21st century MAC awaiting a revolution in forum technology! If anyone is interested send me an email and I'll send you a reply with an attached image. TT Edited August 4, 2013 by tthomson Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted August 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Tony, have sent you a pm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ShaunC Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 When I upgraded mine from a standard 13" Kenlowe to a 14" dual speed Kenlowe I reconfigured the supply from the direct to via the ignition switch. The previous fan would sometimes run on for over 10 minutes when the engine was turned off , not good for the health of the battery and providing little benefit in my opinion. I haven't used the additional feature of the override, I want it all automatic like my daily driver. The fan is set to come on just above normal operating temperature to keep the water temperature as consistent as possible (which is a fraction over 1/2 way on the temperature gauge). It generally only comes on for a short while when slow moving traffic or crawling up hill in hot weather. What I will most likely do in the future is fit a relay to disable the fan supply whilst the engine is cranking (just incase the fan should become enabled at the same time) and have the radiator modified to accept a duplex temperature probe and configure one of the outputs as a high temperature alarm.....it's added to the winter wish list Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 (edited) My fan is connected via a temp sensor switch fitted into the radiator to the battery. It cools everything down beautifully after I switch off, I've had no problems with it at all. Cheers Tony Edited August 5, 2013 by Tony Millward Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR674 Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Hi Tony can we (me) have some details? Regards Craig Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Here you go Craig (you could always pop round and take a look). The Temp sensor is fitted to the rad by the top hose...the brass thingy. Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.