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Years ago I did research into broken axles on race cars. We crack tested axles and then ran fatigue tests.

 

The interesting point is that the crack testing used a very simple method.

 

You drop the part in a coloured die and boil it up.

Take it out and wipe off any surplus.

Sprinkle with flour and come back tomorrow.

 

Any cracks that might subsequently start a break will exude die and the flour will show this.

You can do it a few times to make sure.

 

Any high stressed, old parts may have some cracks even if you didn't get a Blacksmith to straighten them.

 

Al.

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Also I have an idea that a TR4 has left-hand thread and right-hand thread on the bit that screws into the brass trunnion.

 

BUT

 

a TR4A has the same thread on both sides.

 

I'd be pleased if someone would confirm this. Its a while since I rebuilt mine.

 

Al.

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Is it safe to get our local smithy to heat and straighten out a front suspension vertical link ? One of ours is slightly bent, about 1/2" out of line at the top. Or just find a straight one at Malvern ?

 

I'd investigate the state of the suspension/chassis in some detail - if its had an impact sufficient to bend a kingpin then I doubt thats the only after-effect. Stub axle most important.

Unless of course a DPO had heated and bent your kingpin to fit the other side, in which case you have been lucky - no crash damage to worry about, and no suspension failure on that dodgy kingpin.

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Years ago I did research into broken axles on race cars. We crack tested axles and then ran fatigue tests.

 

The interesting point is that the crack testing used a very simple method.

 

You drop the part in a coloured die and boil it up.

Take it out and wipe off any surplus.

Sprinkle with flour and come back tomorrow.

 

Any cracks that might subsequently start a break will exude die and the flour will show this.

You can do it a few times to make sure.

 

Any high stressed, old parts may have some cracks even if you didn't get a Blacksmith to straighten them.

 

Al.

 

 

When I used to do this sort of engineering it was called a dye penetrant test.

 

Rgds Ian

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Absolute scrap - throw it away before you get hurt.

 

MOSS sell replacements now which are very good, alternatively you can find good used ones easily- just take a straight edge and a pair of decent trunnions to check when you will buy. Good used will cost the same as the repro's. I would fit the later TR6 type as the geometry is better, but thats my preference.

 

Regards

 

Tony

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Thanks for the responses, everyone. Advice taken and found a very good one at Malvern, complete with caliper mounting plate (which I also needed) & trunnion, for £25.

 

Down to bare chassis at the moment, Peter C, and all ok - just about to start the chassis rebuild now that I have everything needed. The car had taken a light hit on the right front corner at some point but, curiously, it was the left side that had the bent vertical link; could something like a yump or massive pothole cause bending ?

Edited by Superaquarama
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