15eren Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 (edited) I have a Lumenition electronic ignition system on my 6. Today it suddenly failed and I have no spark on the plugs. When the ignition is on, I have 12 v on the +side of the coil. I suspect that the coil is faulty. Can anyone tell me, what the resistance on the coil (primary side and secondary side) shall be? Edited June 4, 2011 by 15eren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 We had a customer have one fail twice. It had blown the bulb, so just check that first. Coils usually don't just stop. Ash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
15eren Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 (edited) We had a customer have one fail twice. It had blown the bulb, so just check that first. Coils usually don't just stop. Ash Thanks for your reply Ash I have now found a guide on Rimmers web-site how to check the Lumenition system. And the check indicates that the power module and the optical switch is OK, but the spark is too weak and that indicates that the coil is suspect. Edited June 5, 2011 by 15eren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 2 litre manual says 3-3.5Ohms for primary winding. TR manual has no figures. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 2 litre manual says 3-3.5Ohms for primary winding. TR manual has no figures. John Which suggests a good general purpose ignition coil, so as you get on Morris Minors and Silver Shadows as well. We're using Commercial Ignition ones at the moment because of the stories about Lucas and because they are black and prettier! Ash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 I have a Lumenition electronic ignition system on my 6. Today it suddenly failed and I have no spark on the plugs. When the ignition is on, I have 12 v on the +side of the coil. I suspect that the coil is faulty. Can anyone tell me, what the resistance on the coil (primary side and secondary side) shall be? 3ohms, unless you have ballast ignition in which case nearer 1ohm. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 I suggest swapping the coil out for a known working one, I have such if you want to borrow it, ah your not exactly local are you!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
15eren Posted June 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 Hi all Thanks for all your replies. I have now changed the coil, and the 6 runs again (like a dream). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
15eren Posted June 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 It didn`t last long. Today I have driven 25 km, and the 6 was suddenly completely dead again. The coil (the new one) was so hot, that I could not touch it with the fingers. After 15-20 minutes cooling down the 6 started again and run perfect. And so it goes on. Driving 15 minutes, and it stops and the coil is extreamly hot. Cooling down and it runs again. Any good adwice would be apriciated. Kind regards Tage Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted June 10, 2011 Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 It didn`t last long. Today I have driven 25 km, and the 6 was suddenly completely dead again. The coil (the new one) was so hot, that I could not touch it with the fingers. After 15-20 minutes cooling down the 6 started again and run perfect. And so it goes on. Driving 15 minutes, and it stops and the coil is extreamly hot. Cooling down and it runs again. Any good adwice would be apriciated. Kind regards Tage Some will suggest moving the coil ? you should not need to,check the earth on the box is sound also the dizzy clamp plate is clean and grounding to the block first.After that suspect the Lumenition pack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted June 10, 2011 Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 It didn`t last long. Today I have driven 25 km, and the 6 was suddenly completely dead again. The coil (the new one) was so hot, that I could not touch it with the fingers. After 15-20 minutes cooling down the 6 started again and run perfect. And so it goes on. Driving 15 minutes, and it stops and the coil is extreamly hot. Cooling down and it runs again. Any good adwice would be apriciated. Kind regards Tage You didn't fit a 6v, ie ballast, coil to a non ballast system did you .? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted June 10, 2011 Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 You didn't fit a 6v, ie ballast, coil to a non ballast system did you .? Good call but I doubt it? you never know and they are not 6 volt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
15eren Posted June 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Hi all. Thanks for Your replies. The new (and the old) coil is a 12 volt-coil so that should not be the problem. And it has always been mounted on the engine-block, so it must be possible to go on with that. So maybe I must suspect the Lumenition-box, even if that is the most expensive of the components. But I have made all the tests and they all indicates that the Lumenition-box is OK. So thats were I am. Regards Tage Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stag powered Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Hi all. Thanks for Your replies. The new (and the old) coil is a 12 volt-coil so that should not be the problem. And it has always been mounted on the engine-block, so it must be possible to go on with that. So maybe I must suspect the Lumenition-box, even if that is the most expensive of the components. But I have made all the tests and they all indicates that the Lumenition-box is OK. So thats were I am. Regards Tage Someone on the stag owners club forum had the same problem recently, and found that the coil although marked 12 volts, needed to be run with a ballast resistor, I don't think it should get that hot Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 (edited) Hi all. Thanks for Your replies. The new (and the old) coil is a 12 volt-coil so that should not be the problem. And it has always been mounted on the engine-block, so it must be possible to go on with that. So maybe I must suspect the Lumenition-box, even if that is the most expensive of the components. But I have made all the tests and they all indicates that the Lumenition-box is OK. So thats were I am. Regards Tage I had a very similar experience with a failing Lumenition system. It would overheat and fail. Then it would cool down and work again. I would not have another. Edited June 11, 2011 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
15eren Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 (edited) Hi again all I have made some new mesurements and have explored, that the earth from the engine to the body is not OK. When the car is cold there is no resistance, but when the car is hot there is 4 ohm resistance. And when I have stops the engine can not start until the resistance have dropped to about 1 ohm (as the engine cools down). So now I have made an extra earth from the battery to the body so that there is always an eart to the body with 0 ohm resistance and my first esperience is that the car runs smoth and until now I have had no stops. I just wonder why there were only an earth from the battery to the engine but no earth connection from the engine to the body. That means that the body have had the earth through the connections from the engine to the body (exhaust, cables and so on) and that has obviosly not been sufficient till now. But I still have to investigate why the ignition coil primary has a resistance of 1,4 ohm as it is bought as a 12 volt coil. But that is another problem and besides I have now got two old spare coils that for sure are 12 volt coils with 3 ohm resistance in the primary coil. Regards Tage Edited June 13, 2011 by 15eren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Hi again all I have made some new mesurements and have explored, that the eart from the engine to the body is not OK. When the car is cold there is no resistance, but when the car is hot there is 4 ohm resistance. And when I have stops the engine can not start until the resistance have dropped to about 1 ohm (as the engine cools down). So now I have made an extra earth from the battery to the body so that there is always an eart to the body with 0 ohm resistance and my first esperience is that the car runs smoth and until now I have had no stops. I just wonder why there were only an earth from the battery to the engine but no earth connection from the engine to the body. That means that the body have had the earth through the connections from the engine to the body (exhaust, cables and so on) and that has obviosly not been sufficient till now. But I still have to investigate why the ignition coil primary has a resistance of 1,4 ohm as it is bought as a 12 volt coil. But that is another problem and besides I have now got two old spare coils that for sure are 12 volt coils with 3 ohm resistance in the primary coil. Regards Tage Tage There should be a flat, braided earth cable - baout 20cm long - bolted to the bulkhead below the battery and to the (IIRC) one of the gearbox/rear engine plate bolts. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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