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GigiTR6

Replacing engine core plugs

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Hello all,

 

I've read some previous treads on how to replace the engine core plugs or frost plugs. My TR6 has a bleeder so I need to replace I'm affraid. Is this possible with the engine in place or do I need to remove it from the car? The engine is running great so I'd like to remove as little as possible. It's a right hand drive, the bleeding plug is the first on the passenger side, closest to the windscreen.

 

Any advice is welcome...

 

Thanks a lot!

 

Best regards,

 

G

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On the back or side? If side you can replace in situ.I turned up some steel to use for tapping in.I used Wellseal as a sealant which you can get from Moss.

The core plugs from Moss as a set.

Regards HarryTR5 Nutterbiggrin.gif

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On the back or side? If side you can replace in situ.I turned up some steel to use for tapping in.I used Wellseal as a sealant which you can get from Moss.

The core plugs from Moss as a set.

Regards HarryTR5 Nutterbiggrin.gif

 

 

Hello,

 

I need to replace the plug on the side... Guess I should remove some parts that are in the way but tht shouldn't be a problem... Just don't want to take the engine out... :-) So it should be possible. Any risk the plug falling in the engine? Wouldt be darft :-)

 

Thanks a lot!

 

Regards,

 

Gerd

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Gerd,

You will be ok.There should be no risk from the seals falling into the engine.

Let us know how you get on.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutterwink.gif

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As an alternative....

This will fix leaking core plugs.

Then you can leave the job until the winter.

 

I had bad leaks in the core plugs of the V8 on my Landrover, I changed one but it was very hard to get at, and there were three more, one of them was behind the flywheel sad.gif

It lost about 1 pint/100 miles.

After this, no leaks.

 

http://www.kalimex.c...=01.04.&pgid=17

 

I also used it for a blowing head gasket on my Peugeot 205.

There are other leak sealers but none that I would recommend.

 

Ivor

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Hi, I have a "bare" engine sat in my 6 at the moment and have just been out to have a look at access to this core plug. With the pedestal out of the way you will have very clear access to this core plug. A bit of brutality is often needed to shift them but you really can't go far wrong. Sometimes they have to be got out by knocking one edge into the engine and spinning the plug so the other edge protrudes. You can then lever out. Just make sure you clean the mating face up well, use Wellseal as others have suggested and knock the new one in nice and square with a suitably sized socket.

 

I've recently replaced all my core plugs and with a bit of brute force they all came out fine.

 

Rob

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is there any chance of damaging the block ?? i was thinking of making up some form of extractor!! bill

 

Very little, and none at all if you don't hit it! The best form of extractor I have found is an old straight ended screwdriver (or for the purists a small cold chisel) , put the blade in the center of the core plug and tap away with a hammer. They are normally much thinner and rusted in the middle and the screwdriver will just go through it, you can they just lever it out!

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I noticed, after recently replacing all my water hoses and flushing the system, that I have a small dribble from one of the core plugs.....it's sited on the block ( not the head), one of the two above the bell housing...i.e. just below the battery.

 

Is this a sign the rest are about to let go or is the bleeder likely to suddenly flood water ?

Can this job be done with the engine in situ, aided by only removing the battery, or is it a nightmare ?

 

Advice welcome please.

 

Peter

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Hi Peter,

if you remove the battery can you put your finger directly on it (ie not below the battery tray). If you can then replacement should be possible.

 

As for the other - you have been given a warning sign.

 

Roger

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Roger

 

My worry is the culprit is below the battery tray and not sure what force is required and whether I will be able to apply that pressure to fit a replacement.

 

Regards

Peter

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Roger

 

My worry is the culprit is below the battery tray and not sure what force is required and whether I will be able to apply that pressure to fit a replacement.

 

Regards

Peter

 

You need sufficient access to the new core plug to give it a couple of whacks to seat it. They are convex and have to be expanded by hitting them to fully seat in the hole. If you dont have that degree of access perhaps some sealant would stop the leak until the engine next comes out. Thread locker is pretty thin and will creep into a slight gap if the old plug is weeping around the edge somewhere. Often they rot though and then you are screwed and it has to be replaced.

 

Stan

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Stan

 

The engine has never been removed from the car, 106k on the clock. It sounds like l need to separate the engine from the g/box, lifted a couple of inches to get good access and whilst I am there replace the other core plugs.

 

Not what I wanted to do, but that's one of the pleasures of owner a 6.

 

Can anyone recommend an engine hoist.

 

Peter

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By the sounds of it I suspect most if not all of them are in a similar condition, flushing the system probably just removed a critical piece of rust on that one. So at some point they will all need doing, and there are a couple behind the front engine plate as well.

 

So its a job that you need to schedule in the non to distant future. However as a temporary fix one method I have found to work is a large blob of milliputty. Get the engine warm, drain so water level is below leaking plug, mix up some milliputty and put a big dollop into the core plug cavity and smooth it well out to the sides. Let it harden for a couple of hours, then refill, and warm the engine up, then turn off and allow to bake some more. I had a Hymac digger with a similar inaccessible core plug, and it was still holding water 2 years afterwards.

 

Alan

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Hi Peter,

if you are simply going to raise the engine to gain access then maybe a jack under the sump may do it.

 

Roger

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Thank you gentlemen. Options that I feel can work forward with. Hopefully there will be someone selling core plugs and the sealant at Stoneleigh.

 

Peter

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Core plugs and sealant available online from the usual suppliers.

If you use a screwdriver, it should be the "strike through" type whose shaft appears at the top of the handle. They're not expensive either, and easier to hold than a cold chisel.

An ordinary screwdriver's handle can explode if it's used wrongly, with a hammer.

 

John

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Guest ntc

No need to raise the engine,just the opposite the only ones that will be ok are those inside the bell housing.IF the antifreeze has been maintained.

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Neil, so lower the engine.

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