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  1. Hello, I need to replace the plug on the side... Guess I should remove some parts that are in the way but tht shouldn't be a problem... Just don't want to take the engine out... :-) So it should be possible. Any risk the plug falling in the engine? Wouldt be darft :-) Thanks a lot! Regards, Gerd
  2. Hello all, I've read some previous treads on how to replace the engine core plugs or frost plugs. My TR6 has a bleeder so I need to replace I'm affraid. Is this possible with the engine in place or do I need to remove it from the car? The engine is running great so I'd like to remove as little as possible. It's a right hand drive, the bleeding plug is the first on the passenger side, closest to the windscreen. Any advice is welcome... Thanks a lot! Best regards, G
  3. Hello, I'm driving a nice, RHD, petrol injection 1972 Triumph TR6. Due to some wear in the inner tie rod and ball pin assembly of the steering rack (MOT remark), I had to replace it by a new one. I ordered MOSS partnumber 306829 (steering rack assembly RHD) an finally found the time to put it in the car this weekend. While I was at it, I replaced both rod ends and I replaced the rubber mountings by alloy mountings. A couple of hours work and then the test drive... * the steering doesn't come back to the center position unless you steer it that way. Normally when you loosen your
  4. All, Thanks for the advise. I sniffle arround the forum to find more about a) the timing and about the throttle butterflies. At least I know know that it's not important wich you do first. note: 1) the metering unit remained unchanged (they didn't adjust anything) 2) the car is an early CR so a bit different than a CP-model. Is there much difference in balancing the butterflies? 3) about setting the timing: what's "TDC" Richard said: "Then set the timing statically using the method in the manual & not at TDC & finally check while running using a strobe at no more than
  5. Hey there, Thanks to the Belgian MOT-requirements, I had to set my 72 PI to a CO2-level of 4.5 (where as everybody keeps on telling me that our oldies would need between 7 & 9 to run smoothly). Although I passed (thank god for another year of MOT-free driving ) the car had the complete wrong set up & timing. I would like to fix this myself, I know the correct timing, etc. but what should I do first: set the timing (static) or set the throttle plates of the inlet manifold ("butterflies")? On the inlet manifold there are 2 screws that set the throttle plates and there is
  6. All, Thanks fot the replies. I can get the Bosch Fuel pump for free (brand new, of the shelf...) but I was wondering what should be adjusted and what not. Can I just fit it in whithout changing anything (filter, return flow (or overflow), ...)? I currently have the standard, Lucas system (pump + filter). Anything I should keep in mind? Thanks a lot!
  7. Hi, I've been running my 1973 PI on the original Lucas Fuel pump for several years now but it's starting to make squeecking noises and the car seems to get not enough fuel at revs above 3500-4000. Think I should replace the pump and I'm going for the Bosch Pump. I've read previous topics and I know I should look for the 0580 254 909 or 0580 254 910. Problem is that some people tell me to replace the filter to a high pressure one (??) and the guys from AngloParts tell me that I should replace the return valve to a higher pressure one?? I'm not buying the pump there (I have my own res
  8. Hi, You might consider changing towards a 2500 Saloon gearbox with overdrive (a friend of mine bought one for 250 euro and another 150 euro for the clutch). Is quite easy to convert on a TR4 and these gearboxes seem to be quite similar... Can it deal with the power though??? 120-130hp shouldn't be a problem. 150 though...
  9. Marvmul, I will replace the followers as well since they are the reason the camshaft needs replacing. When driving my fathers TR4A IRS back from MOT, suddenly all power fell away and bick missfires/backfires occurred. I drove the car to our workshop (about 30km) where they initially tried different carburettors. When nothing happened, they opened up the enginecover and noticed 2 valves didn't respond as they should. The cilinderhead was removed and 2 followers broke down (1 of them broke in 2 pieces, the other one has a whole in it) and 1 guiding tube was bent. The cameshaft is slight
  10. Hello, Can anyone tell me what has to be done to replace the camshaft on a TR4A-engine. Not really detailed but main operations. I would like to have te camshaft replaced but I 'm not sure what I am getting myselve into. Does the engine need to be completely dismanteled? Does the engine need to be pulled out of the car or can the camshaft be replaced with the engine in place? I know the cilinderhead needs to be removed, what else? Thanks a lot!!
  11. I have an opportunity to buy a complete, ready-to-fit gearbox with overdrive. The gearboxnumber is CT 75694. Is this an TR4A gearbox or a TR6-gearbox? If the latter, would it fit? thanks!!
  12. Thanks guys!! Rex, thanks a lot!! I'll have a look at the saloon-conversion. I got info from Moss that they will convert the current (non-overdrive) gearbox to an overdrive-one. The investment is quite massive (1000£) but they garantee the working and we keep the original gearbox (so car stays original). Does anyone have experience with this? Cheers, G
  13. I am thinking of buying a perfectly restored TR4A IRS. The cars is equipped with the standard 4-speed gearbox but I would like to have an overdrive. Could anyone please tell me what the best solution would be (price/quality)? I'v been told that the current gearbox can be rebuilt to an overdrive one, I could probably look for a overdrive-gearbox or there should be a 2.5 P/saloon conversion. Does anyone have a similar experience? Are there specialized companies? What are the do's and don'ts? What cost should I count? Can I built it in myself (I'am, if I may say so, quite handy and have
  14. Can I dismantel & clean these switches whoutout having to remove the complete interior? Are they accessible from below (out of a greaspit for example)? The column switch is a new one and I checked it with an electronic tester. Should work properly. Meanwhile I know for sure that it's a J-type overdrive. I noticed that the gearbox is sweating some oil, the switches show a thin oil-layer. Could this be the cause?
  15. My fathers 1973 TR6 PI "125" has some strange overdrive-problems. Initially, the overdrive worked well. Suddenly, at highway speeds the OD suddenly switches off and immediately on again. A few days later, the OD switches off when using the indicators, the OD switches off. When you fiddle with the swith, suddenly it switches on again. Now it is even worse. When you switch it on at let's say 70km/h there is no problem, if you accelerate up to 100km/h or faster it switches off (whitout thouching the switch) and it is impossible to get it on again. After a while (40minutes) the overdri
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