Chilliman Posted November 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 (edited) A little more progress.....after a simple matter of life getting in the way of restoration again a few more bits and pieces Ive done. One of the big jobs was emptying all the boxes of bits and effectively completing a stock take looking for the obviously missing and possibly difficult to come by spare parts....what a mess! still at least I have an idea of what Im going to need. Anyway I managed to find all the parts for the door locks and handles so cleaned them up and got them working nicely. Id like to get them re-chromed but know they are made of the dreaded Mazak alloy which most chroming companies seem to avoid like the plague. I have however found a company in Kent thats prepared to work with Mazak and I have just sent them the rear light units to assess and quote for chroming. Ironically amongst all the boxes of bits I found two brand new door handles which look the same as the originals but are not, nor are the innards interchangeable so they may be going on fleabay soon. Amongst the body parts I have a complete albeit rough looking drivers door and a passenger door frame only. I also have a pair of new door skins TR6? Which have also got the dreaded wire worm on the surface after such long storage. I have just spent the day working out how to make the new door skin fit the old frame and then moving the holes for the handle to make it all work. Sorry if this has been covered before but Im showing the photos in case its of any use to anyone in the future! Decided that the differences were so great it was probably as well to weld up all the existing holes and start again with a solid panel.. Cleaned up all the areas around the existing holes: Cut new metal (20 gauge - nearest to the skin) to fit the holes Welded up to create solid panel Made a template from the original door Reversed it and marked the new skin cut it out and gave it a flash coat of zinc primer & fitted the original handle to check for fit (with hole in frame) When I've got a bit more time I'll try to post a few more pics of some of the other work. Edited January 16, 2011 by Chilliman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 21, 2010 Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 Hi Chilliman, I have two chrome plater/metal finishers in West London (Wembly & Heathrow) both very good and work with Mazak etc. I had some rear lights done recently and came out beautifully. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 Little helper Hi, Can I have some of the stuff Little Helper is smoking ? Badfrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 (edited) Thanks Roger Ive just heard back from the firm in Kent who have quoted me for the light units & Ive told them to go ahead they will not be ready until the new year so will have to wait and see what the end product is like. Hey Badfrog I think it was a combo of carbon monoxide & cellulose thinners! Should of seen him half hour later! Edited January 16, 2011 by Chilliman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 (edited) Post deleted, didn't read the above properly Edited November 23, 2010 by graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 Hey Badfrog – I think it was a combo of carbon monoxide & cellulose thinners! Should of seen him half hour later! A spitting image of Badfrog in me california days. Woof. Badfrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted December 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 (edited) Is this a common problem.....? The box of bits that came with my TR4 includes two handbrake levers - both have cracks at the base of the lever in identical locations, one of them has been welded up previously. I take it this is a common problem - has anyone had any success reinforcing this section to reduce the stress at the base? Edited January 16, 2011 by Chilliman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 Looks like PO was a bit heavy handed with pulling it on! I would have thought a bit of 2mm plate filleted in would do the trick. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Right...back to the job in hand and hopefully sorted the photo links for the future... I've spent the last month or so sorting out some missing pieces cleaning and putting aside the servicable components and now I'm back to basics - strip the rest of the body get it braced and ready to take the tub off the chassis Part of the problem I've got is the space to get the tub off and store it...but I think that may now be resolved..just need a dry day and some help from my sons! Took the bonnet off ..and wished I hadn't - it's the first time that dusty lump has seen daylight for 20 years! Next stage - tub removal John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
had17462 Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 John looking at the pics it doesn,t look to bad, i bought mine of ebay in 2005/6 and it was in a very bad way but iam getting there ,hopefully i.ll be able to use it this year, i did say the same thing last year! nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Rather nice manifolds - wonder what your engine spec is. Most probably modified with manifolds like those. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Those manifolds are for a set of 45 DCOE Webers that I have. The complete engine was rebuilt for 'fast road' spec a couple of decades ago and didn't get as far as actually starting before life ...(err kids/mortgage/work) got in the way! The sad thing is that given all the holes left open during storage there is probably all manner of dead bugs inside, not to mention the potential corrosion that may have occurred... although I really hope not. It's amazing that although this vehicle has always been in dry storage the studs on those inlet manifolds that have been left exposed have corroded badly and will definitely need replacing. I am sadly resigned to the fact that pretty much all previous work will now be re-done including this time around the hardened valve seats for unleaded fuel which wasn't on the horizon last time she was built! Still - no point in bleating - if I'm ever going to drive this thing I better just crack on! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted January 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2011 Right - a nice dry day, both my boys on hand to help so it's time to take the tub off and get it stored safely The trouble is - my storage solution for the tub involves taking down that alley between the house & garage Anyway it lifted off easily It's new home for the next few months is the patio! Probably not going to win any design prizes but it should be safe and dry - and it's still on site which I like Now to start on the running gear ....... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 22, 2011 Report Share Posted January 22, 2011 Excellent storage idea! Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 (edited) It's new home for the next few months is the patio! That's what patios are for! Tub looks pretty good. No, bloody good! Incidentally, I think I mentioned earlier about modifications, seeing the 4-branch and weber manifolds. You also have a Racetorations pulley on the front of the generator. I fitted one of these some 24 years ago to my first restoration. The idea is that they push air from front to back to cool the generator rather than sucking hot air from the rear (i.e. manifold area) for cooling. Nice idea - but - this means that the generator runs at a much lower speed, possibly less that half. No problem for racing, but the battery will almost inevitable run down in normal use, even with a few longer runs thrown in. It was one of few options at the time but with hindsight, probably not the best option these days. You may well discover that your front suspension top wishbones have been shortened - a typical mod at the time. These days, this mod is frowned on by some (though I still think it's a sound and sensible mod). But - better to check so you know what you have. Looks like there was a rollover bar fitted as well. And are those TR6 replacement sills with the paint drain holes? AlanR Edited January 23, 2011 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted January 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 (edited) Hi Alan, Good observations! - You're right about the pulley - I had rebuilt the engine, and that would have been about the same time you fitted your pulley 24yrs ago. All of the engine spec was based on a 'fast road' build and all the parts came from Darryl at Racestorations. It's amazing how a couple of decades can change the views on what is best but you make a valid point about the pulley & it probably not being the best option nowadays. I haven't been over the old paperwork for the engine but from memory it had all the normal (at the time) - new large pistons & liners, lightened flywheel, new high lift cam & followers, head was polished & new valves, S/steel 4 branch manifold, fuel pump removed & blanked off etc etc. Not sure about the sills - they look like they have been replaced by the PO - they are in good condition. Having just had a quick look at the chassis and suspension I'm fairly happy but do have concerns with the F/O/S suspension turret, the support brace behind it has visible distortion which tends to indicate an impact so the first thing I'm going to do is take a load of pictures for reference, remove the engine/box and strip the running gear. It could end up being one of those jobs thats going to take hours of measurements and head scratching to get the geometry exactly as it should be. I'll post more pics as I go John Edited January 29, 2011 by Chilliman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Anyone got a set of realllllllllllly deep sockets for this particular U bolt on the rear suspension!!!! please tell me this isn't original? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 please tell me this isn't original? OK - it isn't original. Looks like the longer bolts are a hangover from having spacer blocks fitted under the springs. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 nothing a hack saw won't fix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Chassis now stripped - the only real problem was a seized lower outer front suspension joint but the other side came away easily - possibly as it had been lubricated and had grease nipples attached unlike the nearside that was dry. From a distance the chassis looks pretty good It's clear he chassis has been repaired, painted and waxoiled, unfortunately it is also clear it has accident damage remaining that has to be put right It's hard to see in the picture but the inner edge of the cross member below the engine has a 'compression bulge' for want of a better term and the offside suspension turret and surrounding chassis is a complete mess especially the support strut - no rust - just wrong! Another sign of previous problems is a welded head on the offside inner fulcrum And the last thing I've noticed from my initial assesment is a distorted rear crossmember - not too bad but still needs correcting Next stage will be to shot blast and assess how much new metal is going to be needed to correct the front end geometry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 Quick update - after shot blasting the chassis it became clear that the repairs needed to the front offside were beyond my ability and needed a jig to rebuild 'mans got to know his limitations'! -Anyway a quick trip up to CTM and the chassis is now with them for whatever remedial work is needed. Whilst the chassis is away I've stripped the block which is all good and then started on the head. The head had been been skimmed, gas flowed and had new guides & valves fitted about 20yrs ago but although unused it had obviously developed some fairly minor surface rust so I stripped it down and started to polish out the marks, then realised that this was all done in the days of good ole' leaded petrol so I'm wasting my time and it's got to go back to a machine shop! One scary problem I found was a very deep score mark inside the number 3 inlet port - bearing in mind this is the first time the valves have been out since the head was rebuilt and staged by a well know TR dealers I was horrified. It's so deep I'm not even sure if it can be removed & if it is presumably the other ports will have to be done the same? how will this impact on performance? Should I trust this to a local machine shop or take it to Revingtons to have a look? Any advice gratefully received as always.....Thanks John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Thought I better update this thread as Pete is making me feel guilty the way he's storming ahead Rapid update is.....chassis rebuilt and powder coated by CTM, whilst that was away I have rebult the engine, gearbox, overdrive and back axle - none of which had run in about three decades. Also blasted and painted the remaining chassis/suspension parts. On return of the chassis I have now fitted the suspension and running gear...well most of it - I've still got to set the camber and do some welding, fitted new spings and dampers polybushes etc. And the best bit of all I've just started the engine for the first time in about 28 years and am delighted that apart from some spitting back through the Webbers it was a doddle and sounds superb - I've taken a short very dodgy left handed video which really doesn't do justice to the beautiful noise, sorry about the quality.....happy or what?! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Nice one John. I would ditch the small KN filter off the rocker cover breather though and fit a decent breather pipe or catch tank system. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Nice one John. I would ditch the small KN filter off the rocker cover breather though and fit a decent breather pipe or catch tank system. Stuart. No probs Stuart - it's not a permanent feature but serves a purpose until I have a bulkhead to play with! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted February 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Thought I'd resurrect this old thread rather than start a new one.......I'm currently working on the dash & thought you'd like to see what a PO thoughtwas a cheap alternative to a wood veneer ..... Probably circa1970? And the view from the inside.....pretty eh? - and look at all the extra holes! Anyway having stripped, blasted and given a coat of zinc primer to protect about a year ago I thought I'd start welding up the surplus holes and generally getting it fit for purpose (it will be going back to spa white) although contrary to many I do like the look of a wood dash it's hardly in keeping with the type of car this seems to be turning into! Now for question time ....using the WSM, parts manual & pic's of original unmolested early TR4's I'm fairly happy with which holes should or shouldn't be there on the face of the dash and have dealt with them accordingly, - I do however have a question about the holes inside the aperture for the cubby box (on the sides) The parts manual tends to indicate there should be a single hole about half way down the metal return for attaching to the cubby box. I've got two holes as per the photo - is that correct? - also I would be grateful if someone could post a pic of how the cubby box is actually attached. I bought a new one and offered it up but without applying some Yuri Geller type skills to the frame I'm bu**ered if I can see how it can fit nicely! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.