pfenlon Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 I am getting most of the stuff ready for an Engine start, as NASA say. I would love to turn the key and my engine fire up first time, so I have already 1 got oil pressure by running the starter and plugs out. 2 Primed the Lucas fuel pump with fuel, it sounded dreadful until it had some petrol inside it! 3 Filled the injectors and injector pipes with fuel, using a syringe so we dont burn out the starter motor. 4 set pump timing as per Lucas book to do Ignition timing, a few electrical jobs the bullet connectors I have done away with or am doing in favour of soldered connections. headlights I thought I would fit to my freshly painted original bowls, to find that the sidelamp in the 7" headlight fouls the bowl, I have cut away the silver inner but it still fouls on the bowl, I may get away with removing the terminals, and soldering the wires direct dont want to get new bowls or lights Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pogo Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 Well done Pete - looking good. I'll listen out for it starting Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 Looking good mate. Fingers crossed for you. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 The magic moment!!. Don't forget to tie that wire up that's hanging over the alternator fan. Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Looking very nice Pete! Hope it starts 'on the button'! Are you still interested in the fuel pump? I am expecting to be home at the weekend - all being well - after doing an unexpected week extra.. Brgds Quote Link to post Share on other sites
carld Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Good Luck Pete, its a great moment, I hope its smiles all round. Cheers Carl Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Looks good Peter If your tacho cable is long enough move the dizzy round clockwise one plug Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Good luck Pete i am dreading that moment with a new cam as they say the first 30 mins is critical ?????? cheers david Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted March 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Looking very nice Pete! Hope it starts 'on the button'! Are you still interested in the fuel pump? I am expecting to be home at the weekend - all being well - after doing an unexpected week extra.. Brgds Ian thanks for keeping in touch I AM interested as I'm told its a must really, I just want to hear the old girl fire up! regards Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted March 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Good luck Pete i am dreading that moment with a new cam as they say the first 30 mins is critical ?????? cheers david Hello Dave, dont know what you mean about "critical" cam? I was told that my TH5 cam would have to be changed for a CP one, then someone else said that was a load of Tosh and TH5 cams are used often in TR6 engines. What is the consensus of opinion here? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted March 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Launch time is around 10.30am tomorrow, weather permitting, no cloud cover or thunderstorms will stop the rocket! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 dont know what you mean about "critical" cam? He means the first 20 minutes of running at 2,000 rpm no less, and no idling. The cam must have adequate oil mist for bedding in, otherwise the cam and the followers will be shot. To quote this site: http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/cam1.htm 'The most critical part of the rebuild process is starting the engine for the first time and this is where many well meaning mechanics go fatally wrong. You MUST NOT let a newly fitted cam run at idle speed for the first 20 minutes of operation. Always keep the rpms up at about 2000 during this period. At idle speed the loadings on the cam 'nose' (that's where the cam is at full lift) are at their highest and the new cam can suffer permanent damage if it is allowed to idle before it has bedded in and work hardened properly. Sitting on the driveway with your foot on the accelerator for 20 minutes can seem like an eternity. Also if the engine starts to overheat it may be necessary to switch off, let things cool down and split the process into several shorter intervals' Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 I am getting most of the stuff ready for an Engine start, as NASA say. I would love to turn the key and my engine fire up first time, so I have already 1 got oil pressure by running the starter and plugs out. 2 Primed the Lucas fuel pump with fuel, it sounded dreadful until it had some petrol inside it! 3 Filled the injectors and injector pipes with fuel, using a syringe so we dont burn out the starter motor. 4 set pump timing as per Lucas book to do Ignition timing, a few electrical jobs the bullet connectors I have done away with or am doing in favour of soldered connections. headlights I thought I would fit to my freshly painted original bowls, to find that the sidelamp in the 7" headlight fouls the bowl, I have cut away the silver inner but it still fouls on the bowl, I may get away with removing the terminals, and soldering the wires direct dont want to get new bowls or lights Coo, a TR250 starter motor. I trust it will give the umph needed for an engine with the higher compression that PI needs. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lee Sellars Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Hello Chaps Question if you have just had an engine rebuild and everything is new. You cant really get the engine to run a 2000rpm from cold without setting the engine up whist on tick over.Therefor damaging the cam bearings. What is best to do??? Lee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Question if you have just had an engine rebuild and everything is new. You cant really get the engine to run a 2000rpm from cold without setting the engine up whist on tick over.Therefor damaging the cam bearings. What is best to do??? No choice, you have to run it at 2,000. Oddly enough, being a PI car, it's likely to run OK at 2,000. The problems will come in getting it to idle smoothly and pick up well from low revs, but that of course comes later. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 He means the first 20 minutes of running at 2,000 rpm no less, and no idling. The cam must have adequate oil mist for bedding in, otherwise the cam and the followers will be shot. To quote this site: http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/cam1.htm 'The most critical part of the rebuild process is starting the engine for the first time and this is where many well meaning mechanics go fatally wrong. You MUST NOT let a newly fitted cam run at idle speed for the first 20 minutes of operation. Always keep the rpms up at about 2000 during this period. At idle speed the loadings on the cam 'nose' (that's where the cam is at full lift) are at their highest and the new cam can suffer permanent damage if it is allowed to idle before it has bedded in and work hardened properly. Sitting on the driveway with your foot on the accelerator for 20 minutes can seem like an eternity. Also if the engine starts to overheat it may be necessary to switch off, let things cool down and split the process into several shorter intervals' Ivor I used a petrol powered backpack blower trained on the radiator to keep it cool An assistant is useful of course. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted March 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 (edited) Well I had no Idea that you had to batter the engine at 2000 rpm, must get a tacko cable! Back to the launch pad, my PI was unused for a few years I would guess, so condition unknown, my PI knowledge slim to zero, had I got the pump timing right. Launch control had the first firing mid morning when it cuoghed spluttered and died about 4 times, then with my pal opening the throttle a little and me giving it some richer mixture, it fired up a treat on about 4 cyls then 5 came in and when they all fired up we had to run from the garage to escape the smoke and fumes! Butit runs and that has given me a lift so I can do the other little jobs and run it for 20 mins at 2000 rpm. Thanks for the input, starter didnt seem to have a problem but it is rebushed. What about the th5 cam in a PI car my cyl head is from a 2.5s and I have the cast 4 bolt exhaust manifold. DO I need a cp cam, I will follow some advice and phone a pro tomorrow though if info is sparse. thanks again everyone. Especially Johnny 250 who sold it to me for a very fair price! Edited March 18, 2010 by pfenlon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Kirk Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Well Done Pete. It is always a nice feeling when it fires up for the first time Cheers Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 DO I need a cp cam, No you do not Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted March 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 No you do not Neil thats what I really wanted to hear, can you expand a little pplease. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 19, 2010 Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 (edited) Hi Peter The two cams are not to dissimler Malcom should be able to calibrate no probs however run it first and with some small tweaking it might run ok as, for the dizzy no worries ie: Martin Edited March 19, 2010 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted March 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 Thanks for that and I did have to turn the dizzy clockwise to get the ign timing right. I fitted the windscreen wiper motor tonight, I assembled the cable and wormy wheels ages ago, thinking I was doing it right, but putting the screws into the wiper plate near the inner wing looks nigh impossible! one step forward........... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 Thanks for that and I did have to turn the dizzy clockwise to get the ign timing right. I fitted the windscreen wiper motor tonight, I assembled the cable and wormy wheels ages ago, thinking I was doing it right, but putting the screws into the wiper plate near the inner wing looks nigh impossible! one step forward........... When re-fitting that plate dont forget to disconnect the battery. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted March 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 When re-fitting that plate dont forget to disconnect the battery. Stuart. AARGH I hadnt thought of that, so its a good job I couldnt find the circular pot with the contact to park the wipers, its at the platers. Also if I can pick your brains again! I have a lucas wiper switch, I have widened the rear of the dash, but my drawing shows the hooter sw, is the wiring the same as a TR6? if so I can find a drawing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 AARGH I hadnt thought of that, so its a good job I couldnt find the circular pot with the contact to park the wipers, its at the platers. Also if I can pick your brains again! I have a lucas wiper switch, I have widened the rear of the dash, but my drawing shows the hooter sw, is the wiring the same as a TR6? if so I can find a drawing. Not sure about the wiring difference if there is one. Im sure this has come up before in which case someone may chip in later. When you replace the park pot dont forget also to remove the wiper arms and re align them when you get the park position correct as they do have a nasty tendency to try and wipe the scuttle otherwise . Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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