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Yet more advice needed - this time on...


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We've fitted a Moss steering rack to my TR2, but now the fan hub extension fouls the rack.

Is this a common problem with a steering rack conversion? If so, it would appear that the best way forward is to omit the extension and fit the std hub and pulley with a shorter bolt, and fit a kenlowe or similar to replace the fan.

Has anyone had this experience and can shed any light?

Is there a shorter bolt available to make the proposed mod above?

 

Thanks again in anticipation,

 

Rod

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Are your motor mounts old and soggy with oil ? If so, the weight of the engine might be compressing the rubber and if your engine is lower, so would the fan extension be lower.

 

Don,

Thanks for the reply - no it's all new and being assembled as part of a full body off rebuild.

 

Rod

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Don,

Thanks for the reply - no it's all new and being assembled as part of a full body off rebuild.

 

Rod

 

I have in the past had to shim up the engine mounts for one reason or another and some of the rack kits sit higher than others. The shims I use are large washers around 3 mm thick that fit between engine mount and front engine plate, if you cut slots in them then its easier to fit them. check that the throttle linkage isn't being strained by doing this or any other cables don't come under tension and also check clearance on the bonnet lift spring mounting plate.

Stuart

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I have in the past had to shim up the engine mounts for one reason or another and

some of the rack kits sit higher than others.

 

 

I remember seeing shims under the engine mountings in the past - often

one of the bits left over when you have finished the job!

 

Check out TR4tony's item :

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Triumph-TR2-Tr3-TR3a-Engine-Shimming-Plate-OE_W0QQitemZ290391361971QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item439cac89b3

 

I don't know Tony's reference to these being used to align the engine is

correct or not, although he's usually on the ball.

If the factory found a problem with the height of the engine, a few shims

would be a cheaper solution than modifying the chassis or engine front plate.

Or maybe the factory did align the engine? I don't know if the original

chassis tolerances would lead to this being necessary.

 

While you're getting your engine and rack to work together, you may like to

give a thought to replacing the fan belt (not now, later . . .)

 

At least if your fan belt breaks, you'll have the lighter steering as you

push it into the nearest layby! (Sorry, couldn't resist that!)

 

AlanR

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Hi Alan,

 

correct description is packing piece, between engine mounting and frame, quantity 'as required'.

 

Normal original fitment, often enough in multiples . . . .

 

Last time I looked they were off the shelf from Moss at about £3 each - just a piece of thickish steel with a couple of holes drilled, easy enough to make up from 1/8" plate.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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Hi Rod,

 

I am in the process of fitting this conversion to my 3A. I removed my fan extension and installed a fan eliminator kit in its place and have installed a SPAL puller fan mounted to an aluminum rad. No fittment issues although I am a little confused about centering the rack in the brackets and am trying to interpret this line in the instructions "Centralise the rack using the alignment on the rack and fixing bracket"....

 

P1060649.jpg

 

P1060694.jpg

 

P1060697.jpg

 

Cheers,

M. Pied Lourd

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Hi M. Pied,

That looks really neat.

What is the 'fan eliminator kit' - and where did you get it from?

 

Thanks,

Rod

 

 

Talk to Moss about their Revotec fan kit. I am thoroughly satisfied with the one I have.

It works a treat on real TRs but there are issues. You should go to the narrow belt kit and consider an alternator to power the thing.

Peter W

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Hi Rod,

 

I am in the process of fitting this conversion to my 3A. I removed my fan extension and installed a fan eliminator kit in its place and have installed a SPAL puller fan mounted to an aluminum rad. No fittment issues although I am a little confused about centering the rack in the brackets and am trying to interpret this line in the instructions "Centralise the rack using the alignment on the rack and fixing bracket"....

 

P1060649.jpg

 

P1060694.jpg

 

P1060697.jpg

 

Cheers,

M. Pied Lourd

 

 

The photos of your car are excellent.

 

Did you not consider 3 degree castor trunions to help with self centreing of the steering at speed?.

Also a negative camber vertical posts or top wishbone mount set - talk to Moss Europe.

 

Cheers

Peter W

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Hi Peter,

 

I did consider the upgrade to the front suspension but have this car plus a full parts car with perfectly good parts to use. I recently did a frame off restoration of my 73 TR6 that I spared no expense on.....with my TR3A project, I am trying to keep the budget a little more in check.

 

Here is a pic of My 6 on the "Tail of the Dragon"

 

IMG_8562.jpg

 

Cheers,

M. Pied Lourd

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Talk to Moss about their Revotec fan kit. I am thoroughly satisfied with the one I have.

It works a treat on real TRs but there are issues. You should go to the narrow belt kit and consider an alternator to power the thing.

Peter W

 

 

At my request Moss now produce a plate to replace the fan extension and still retain the wide belt - excellent service from them.

 

Also be aware that the Revotec variable controller requires negative earth. I wasn't entirely happy with this controller and now use a fixed temp thermo switch in the lower pipe.

 

The fan itself works well and I have no cooling issues.

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