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Rear Valance assembly...oh no


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You are making great progress Guy, well done.

 

Question.. We know that painting the rear wings off the car is the right thing to do so what is the right procedure for the rear panel so that we get the proper continuity between the rear of the rear wings and the rear valence ?. Do we need to bolt everything up, mask for the satin black then remove wings and paint the satin black before reassembling ?

 

Stan

 

 

Stan,

 

In my case as i am doing the boot area too,and wings currently off, i was planning on spraying everthing body colour.

 

Then fit wings,and seal, mask up for the satin black on rear, and spray that in one hit.

 

That seems to me to be the correct way, of course it could all be sprayed with the wings in final

position.

 

What do you think Chaps.

 

 

Pinky,

Full resto, :blink: may be one day, should have kept the Old Tr7,for more practice.

Actually there is a three overhere which is ripe for resto, but i mean its nearly

all rust, currently in separate parts

 

Thanks for all you kind comments. :rolleyes:

 

Cheers

Guy

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Guy best way is paint body colour with the wings off and then fit them and seal them and then mask out for the black as its easier to get the lines continous from back panel to wings. Dont forget to repaint the little bit of black on the boot lid edge as well then it will match better. Get some 1/4" lining tape as it makes masking for the corners of the black easier.

Looking good!

Stuart.

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Guy best way is paint body colour with the wings off and then fit them and seal them and then mask out for the black as its easier to get the lines continous from back panel to wings. Dont forget to repaint the little bit of black on the boot lid edge as well then it will match better. Get some 1/4" lining tape as it makes masking for the corners of the black easier.

Looking good!

Stuart.

 

 

 

Thanks Stuart

 

Wildo

 

Welding now completed, Hooray :rolleyes:

 

Cheers

Guy

Edited by Jersey Royal
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Thanks Stuart

 

Wildo

 

Welding now completed, Hooray :rolleyes:

 

Cheers

Guy

 

 

Another question Guy.. It looks like you were able to refit the upper inner panel after the outer panel was installed, is that correct ?. Ie refit in this sequence:

 

1. Lower innner

2. Outer

3. Uppper inner

 

Stan

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Another question Guy.. It looks like you were able to refit the upper inner panel after the outer panel was installed, is that correct ?. Ie refit in this sequence:

 

1. Lower innner

2. Outer

3. Uppper inner

 

Stan

 

Stan you can do it in that order yes.

Stuart.

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Another question Guy.. It looks like you were able to refit the upper inner panel after the outer panel was installed, is that correct ?. Ie refit in this sequence:

 

1. Lower innner

2. Outer

3. Uppper inner

 

Stan

 

 

 

Hi Stan,

 

Yes i fitted lower inner first, then outer rear panel, then upper inner.

 

I trial fitted every panel with screws to ensure it all fitted correctly with the wings

and boot.

 

 

I did have to trim a couple of mm of the top edge of the top inner panel, no big deal..

 

Cheers

Guy

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Chaps

 

I am now onto paint. :rolleyes:

 

The car is painted with 2 pack paint, with the exception of the inner boot lid and the inside boot area.

 

I have stripped off all the paint to the inside of the boot, and applied a primer that was appropriate

for my cellulose top coat.

 

 

The inner channels that run around where the boot seal is, has been painted in 2 pack.

 

Now for my question

 

Can cellulose be applied over 2 pack? If not does this mean i will have to bare metal this area? or would i get away with just sanding off a bit?

 

cheers

 

Guy

Edited by Jersey Royal
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Well, second attempt at paint not so good :mellow:

 

As you can see i have a major run, which is because i was to close, and put

toooo much on. :huh:

 

So will wait for it to dry and sand it smooth, and apply another coat with

more care.

 

 

DSC08285.jpg

 

DSC08286.jpg

 

Bummer

 

Cheers

Guy

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Guy dont worry about the run it just shows youve put plenty on :lol: It will block off ok with 600 w/dry. You can happily paint cellulose over 2pack as once that stuff is dry it is inert and shouldnt react.

Stuart.

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Guy dont worry about the run it just shows youve put plenty on :lol: It will block off ok with 600 w/dry. You can happily paint cellulose over 2pack as once that stuff is dry it is inert and shouldnt react.

Stuart.

 

 

 

Stuart,

 

Thanks

 

Blocked it off (technical term :rolleyes: ),panel wiped and had another go.

Much better i think, no runs.

 

Cheers for info on two pack, its been on the car about five years.

 

DSC08287-1.jpg

 

 

Once dry will give it a light block off, and another coat primer, that would be three

coats then. Then onto the top coats.

 

Cheers

Guy

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Thats looking better Guy. When you rub the primer down give it a dust coat (guide coat) of your satin black first as this will help you see 1. where you have been and 2. show up any scratches/ripples that need attention. When all the black has gone you know you havent missed anything.

Stuart.

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Guy dont worry about the run it just shows youve put plenty on :lol: It will block off ok with 600 w/dry. You can happily paint cellulose over 2pack as once that stuff is dry it is inert and shouldnt react.

Stuart.

 

 

Hi Stuart

Thats interesting I tried to put some cellulose over a panel that had been done in 2 pack and it reacted :mellow: so I then used something called Barcoat if I remember correctly

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Hi Stuart

Thats interesting I tried to put some cellulose over a panel that had been done in 2 pack and it reacted :mellow: so I then used something called Barcoat if I remember correctly

 

Was that on an unbroken surface of 2pack or on a repaired area as it may have been what was underneath coming through around repairs. I use 2pack lacquer as an isolator sometimes if the underneath coats are causing problems. 2pack cures by chemical reaction between it and the hardener/activator and once cured it is to all intents "dead" as in thinners doesnt affect it.It can also depend on what hardener was used as I have known oven cure hardener used by mistake instead of an air dry one and that surface never really dried properly right through and could be attacked by thinners.Cheap 2pack can also suffer like that as well. Barcoat is a good medium but needs really to be a full panel coat rather than used for "spot" repairs and care must be taken when flatting otherwise if you go through it anywhere it defeats the object, it is also a brittle surface and can crack in high stress areas.

Stuart.

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Stuart,

 

Thanks

 

Blocked it off (technical term :rolleyes: ),panel wiped and had another go.

Much better i think, no runs.

 

Cheers for info on two pack, its been on the car about five years.

 

 

 

 

Once dry will give it a light block off, and another coat primer, that would be three

coats then. Then onto the top coats.

 

Cheers

Guy

 

 

Guy, just curious to know what your ambient air temp is at the moment and how fast the paint is setting up ?. Its already too cold to paint here.

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Guy, just curious to know what your ambient air temp is at the moment and how fast the paint is setting up ?. Its already too cold to paint here.

 

 

Hi Stan,

 

Its been a nice day here, i didnt heat the garage as the air temp was 19-20 degs c.

The primer is Mobihel Helios Nc Filler

 

http://mobihel.helios.si/eng

 

It has a drying time of between 10--60 mins. By the time i had a cup of tea and a fag

it was dry.

 

Tomorrow looks to be a similar day as today, so will be getting on with the colour

coat.

 

Cheers

Guy

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Hi Stan,

 

Its been a nice day here, i didnt heat the garage as the air temp was 19-20 degs c.

The primer is Mobihel Helios Nc Filler

 

http://mobihel.helios.si/eng

 

It has a drying time of between 10--60 mins. By the time i had a cup of tea and a fag

it was dry.

 

Tomorrow looks to be a similar day as today, so will be getting on with the colour

coat.

 

Cheers

Guy

 

Just goes to show how much of a difference a few miles south makes. Its been chuffing freezing here today!

Stuart.

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Hi Chaps,

 

Thinking forward the Satin Black, i believe there are several shades,

anyone aware of the correct shade (code).?

 

I have a rattle can of Satin Black, but feel i will achieve a better finish with the spray gun

 

At Malvern i seem to recall, seeing Tr6s with just body colour, and those with satin black,

and those with a gloss black. Are there any alternatives that would suit a Sapphire Blue

six with no bumpers. :o<_<

 

Opinions appreciated.

 

Cheers

Guy

Edited by Jersey Royal
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Hi Chaps,

 

Thinking forward the Satin Black, i believe there are several shades,

anyone aware of the correct shade (code).?

 

I have a rattle can of Satin Black, but feel i will achieve a better finish with the spray gun

 

At Malvern i seem to recall, seeing Tr6s with just body colour, and those with satin black,

and those with a gloss black. Are there any alternatives that would suit a Sapphire Blue

six with no bumpers. :o<_<

 

Opinions appreciated.

 

Cheers

Guy

 

 

BLUE :P

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Hi Guy Good job so far

What is what

God you have got me at it now B)

I guess it's me being a cheeky youn bu**er

Edited by Clarkey
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Hi Martin,

 

Thanks.

 

Worry not, but what is a "Blue Fanar Fanar"

 

Cheers

Guy

 

L.M.F.A.O, Blue is blue

Fanar fanar was a laugh used in Viz

:lol:

Edited by Clarkey
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