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Hi

allpicked up the new 4A yesterday-drove most of the way home perfectly ;) very very happy!

 

However as fuel was getting low-decided to stop fill up and then push on-after filling up the car started perfectly and ran for approx 20 secs-then cut out and still will not start.

 

I have a few idea's but would like to solict your thoughts-don't offer any idea's re carbs as the car is fitted with injection.

 

Any idea's/thoughts taken seriously apart from "have you put the correct fuel in" :P

 

Going out for a fiddle.....

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However as fuel was getting low-decided to stop fill up and then push on-after filling up the car started perfectly and ran for approx 20 secs-then cut out and still will not start.

 

I have a few idea's but would like to solict your thoughts-don't offer any idea's re carbs as the car is fitted with injection.

 

Any idea's/thoughts taken seriously apart from "have you put the correct fuel in" :P

You did better than me - got 4 miles on my journey home then 120 miles on a lorry...

 

Start with the obvious I guess, which I am sure you have:

 

Fuel pump running OK?

Pull the injectors out, do they spray a decent cone (point them at some clean cardboard and look at the spray pattern) when you rotate the engine on the starter?

Sparks at points & plugs when you turn engine by hand? And ditto on the starter?

 

If yes, then a lot of things are OK.

 

If there is a fuel lack, trying to make some connection with the filling up, errm, when did car last see the road - has it been laid up - might there be rust flakes in the tank which were stirred by the filling up and have blocked the filter?

 

Is it totally dead, or just not quite catching?

I hate non-starters :angry:

 

Still, at least you know you will enjoy it once you get past this hiccup :P

 

Ivor

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Shez,

 

when I got mine I managed to get about 450 miles, from Melbourne to Yass outside Canberra, before it happened. In my case it still ran but at about 25MPH sounding like a chaffcutter.

At Yass I'd paid top dollar for a tank full of Premium high octane fuel. I'd also paid top dollar for half a gallon of water (non-potable).

 

(I'd also been having a bit of progressive electrical problems all the way up which a new condensor fixed.)

Edited by littlejim
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Having spent a bit of time with the car last night-I have a spark-so electrics all okay.

 

Pulled the main feed to the injectors off no fuel-so suspect:

The fuel pump or as I had just brimmed the tank some kind of fuel blockage (rust flakes-although the car hsa been used?)

 

Dump questions-can I check the fuel pump in situ? Should it "tick" initially switching on the ignition? Could a fuse have blown - one that runs the fuel pump?

 

Appreciate the help :mellow:

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If you have a spark, then as suggested before look at the fuel supply, inlcuding the pump & filter.

I would also contact the vendor and ask if they have experienced before. If you bought from a dealer, then they should help fix.

Edited by 4Mal
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Pulled the main feed to the injectors off no fuel-so suspect:

The fuel pump or as I had just brimmed the tank some kind of fuel blockage (rust flakes-although the car hsa been used?)

 

Dump questions-can I check the fuel pump in situ? Should it "tick" initially switching on the ignition? Could a fuse have blown - one that runs the fuel pump?

Tick? You're thinking of an SU.... the fuel pump makes high-pitched turbiney howly noises, with the pitch dropping when the system is pressurised, but it runs all the time the ignition's on, the surplus fuel bypasses back to the tank.

With the filler cap off you should hear a constant splishsplosh of fuel going back in there.

Yes, check the fuse. Also check continuity through the inertia switch under the bonnet, might be on the bulkhead, don't have a pic of it but it looks like a large grey Smarties tube with a knob on top, and with the knob down it's On.

Its purpose is to switch off the pump if you turn the car over (you didn't did you? :P )

 

Btw if the pump runs with the cap open but stops when it's shut, I'm trying to remember if the cap is vented, I think it is, perhaps the vent got blocked while you were filling up?

Even so, the pump should still run, although it will not be happy trying to pull a vacuum.

 

Ivor

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Hi

allpicked up the new 4A yesterday-drove most of the way home perfectly ;) very very happy!

 

However as fuel was getting low-decided to stop fill up and then push on-after filling up the car started perfectly and ran for approx 20 secs-then cut out and still will not start.

 

I have a few idea's but would like to solict your thoughts-don't offer any idea's re carbs as the car is fitted with injection.

 

Any idea's/thoughts taken seriously apart from "have you put the correct fuel in" :P

 

Going out for a fiddle.....

 

What injection does this TR4 have ?. Is this a modern EFI system or something else ?.

 

Stan

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What injection does this TR4 have ?. Is this a modern EFI system or something else ?.

Stan

Ah. :blink:

Ahem.

Well, mustn't leap to conclusions. It's quite possible that the car has the world's only Lucas 4-cylinder injection system. Complete with howling pump.

Although your hypothesis of 'something else' should also be given passing consideration. :wacko:

 

Ivor

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Ah. :blink:

Ahem.

Well, mustn't leap to conclusions. It's quite possible that the car has the world's only Lucas 4-cylinder injection system. Complete with howling pump.

Although your hypothesis of 'something else' should also be given passing consideration. :wacko:

 

Ivor

 

:rolleyes: I was trying to be kind. But I am curious to know what you can use for a TR4 injection as I have seen several TR6's converted to TBI and EFI but I dont recall ever seeing a 4 cyl converted in this way although I dont see any reason why it could not be done.

 

Stan

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My guess would be rust flakes and debris sucked up the fuel pipe when the tank got low for the first time in a number of years. I would check for the prescence of fuel both before and after the fuel filter which is what normally gets blocked up

 

Cheers

 

Alan

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:rolleyes: I was trying to be kind. But I am curious to know what you can use for a TR4 injection as I have seen several TR6's converted to TBI and EFI but I dont recall ever seeing a 4 cyl converted in this way although I dont see any reason why it could not be done.

 

Stan

The 4 cylinder GM/Vauxhall/Opel is the one most of the "homebrew" systems are taken from. Pretty similar to the one used for the 6. Or it could be the very expensive Revington system which is similar anyway.

Stuart.

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:rolleyes: I was trying to be kind. But I am curious to know what you can use for a TR4 injection as I have seen several TR6's converted to TBI and EFI but I dont recall ever seeing a 4 cyl converted in this way although I dont see any reason why it could not be done.

 

Stan

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:rolleyes: I was trying to be kind. But I am curious to know what you can use for a TR4 injection as I have seen several TR6's converted to TBI and EFI but I dont recall ever seeing a 4 cyl converted in this way although I dont see any reason why it could not be done.

 

Stan

 

OOPS! sorry keyboard bounce :unsure:

 

http://www.extraefi.co.uk/products.htm

4, 5,6 8,10 or 12.. no problem?!

Edited by johnny250
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Rotor arms (especially the modern Lucas version) can fail just like that - I have had two fail that way. Buy decent ones from Distributor Doctor!

Dirt in the filter bowl can cause the engine to die, but, when the muck falls back to the bottom, the engine can be re-started (see my article on Slosh Tank Sealant in the Technicalities CD).

Ian Cornish

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Hi all,

This is where it may get slightly complicated.... :blink:

 

The TR4A I have has Lumention-ELECTRONIC ignition and INJECTION.

 

They are throttle bodies designed to replace exisiting carbs - to be honest they look like Weber carbs i.e are 45mm bore, however I don't want to get bogged down in discussions on the merits-power delivery and BHP output here-now ;)

 

Just for the moment would like some good practical advice-I will try the rust flakes from the tank route-the fuel filter blockage and fuel pump failure...any more general observations? Fuses blown?

 

The car was driving perfectly and I mean perfectly-fill up and 20 secs later its dead-but with a good spark.

 

BTW if you must find out more on the Fuel Injection there is an item on the car in TR action N.o 222 Oct 2007 Page 36-it shows a picture...more later though! :rolleyes:

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Hi all,

This is where it may get slightly complicated.... :blink:

 

The TR4A I have has Lumention-ELECTRONIC ignition and INJECTION.

 

They are throttle bodies designed to replace exisiting carbs - to be honest they look like Weber carbs i.e are 45mm bore, however I don't want to get bogged down in discussions on the merits-power delivery and BHP output here-now ;)

 

Just for the moment would like some good practical advice-I will try the rust flakes from the tank route-the fuel filter blockage and fuel pump failure...any more general observations? Fuses blown?

 

The car was driving perfectly and I mean perfectly-fill up and 20 secs later its dead-but with a good spark.

 

BTW if you must find out more on the Fuel Injection there is an item on the car in TR action N.o 222 Oct 2007 Page 36-it shows a picture...more later though! :rolleyes:

 

Hi Shezbo

They use the weber inlet manifold not the throttle bodies

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The pump should run all the time with this system when the ignition is on. If you have taken the main fuel feed off the fuel rail and nothing is coming out then it must be the pump, or its supply, or a severe case of a pipe blockage. When you switch on the ignition the pump should hum, does yours? I would think that your pump is not within the tank as it is an aftermarket system, so you should be able to see it and feel if it is vibrating and trying to pump. My bet would be on the pump being u/s, or you have disconnected a supply wire, or a fuse has gone.

 

If you do have fuel coming out of the feed pipe to the fuel rail, but nothing from the injectors, it could be a sensor, or the ecu at fault- these aftermarket ecu s are pretty reliable though.The throttle bodies are reliable as they are so simple.

Edited by Rhodri
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