david ferry

Myles, If somehow you can stop that rotation, the job will become significantly easier, as you can simply remove the nut, take the wheel and brake drum off the car and replace the stud with one of these. http://STUD WHEEL REPAIR TR2-4 (revingtontr.com) What type of wheels do you have? Are you prepared to scrap the wheel, and replace it? Just a further thought. I wonder if removing the other wheel nuts and having a friend push/pull on the wheel (car jacked up and very well supported) whilst you try to undo the dodgy stud will help you remove it. I can't remember if the shou

Nick. A quick search on the forum shows that Wyn's car was sold at one point by Mark O'Malley - Classic Marks. He's Marko on here and if you contact him, he may have details of the wheels and/or a photo. It's a well developed/modified car, or at least it was. David

Nick, 16” wheels are possible. Wyn Lewis had some on his TR5. They looked v good. Wyn no longer has that car, and I don’t know who owns it. Perhaps a search may bring some information. What was your reason for the brake ‘upgrade’? Are you too far down the road to not bother with it? Standard brakes in good condition are more than good enough. David

For the sake of a small amount of hassle, the small cost of the replacement filter and the small amount of oil to fill the new filter/top up the sump, I’d replace this. You can quickly damage the crank if there’s a problem, and I’m sure that if this happens, you’d regret not changing the damaged filter. It’s well worth avoiding that potential scenario. David

Neil, Personally, I'd fit the new ones and just use a small grommet in the 'spare' hole. You could even stick a bit of paint on the grommet. I'd have thought this will look acceptable until you decide to get any bodywork done. It also means that Roy could have your old ones so that he can see the cars behind him on the track, and keep scrutineers happy. David

I did/may still have 2 or 3 5 litre containers of unused Forlife in my workshop. If anyone is interested in it, let me know. David

Paul, Yes, but all with the raised hinge plinths from the later TR3a cars. David

I agree about the MOT history not being particularly good. However, don’t confuse the MOT test number with anything to do with where the test was completed. As far as I’m aware, the MOT test number is a randomly generated number. David

I’d think that there’s no chance this will happen because of possible liabilities, which could be enormous. David

Dave, This is the type of thing you need. Reinforcing plate for seat belt David

Unless I'm missing the point here, would a good start point not be the location of the engine mount chassis brackets on either a TR5 or 6? Given the road wheels are in the same place on all chassis, wouldn't that then mean that your engine is in the same/correct location and you can then modify other sections of the chassis around the engine, if needs be. I think that this would be the way that I'd be doing this. Are the required measurements/chassis bracket locations and holes to be found in workshop manuals? David

All very sensible comments. I have available for sale my old but perfect condition race suit. It is no longer usable for circuit racing due to changes in regulations. It is the 1986 standard. It is a very good suit. A Sparco Sprint V. If not called that, it's something similar. It would sill be in use were it not for the regulation changes for circuit racing. It is however still 'legal' for sprints and hill climbs. However, I leave it to you to research that if needs be. The suit is in superb condition, no oily marks, tears, nicks or anything else nasty. It is a size 58 whi