AndyC 4A Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Hi all, I need a bit of advice or guidance on a self inflicted problem please. I have the engine and box out to do a few jobs and in separating the engine from the box the engine tilted and fell to one side, only onto carpet tiles, old ones but better than concrete. As a consequence, the heater valve hit the deck first and sheared off flush with the steel 90 degree elbow in the head, actually just inside it!! As I can't unscrew this elbow to put it in the vice, it hits the nut and stud on the corner of the head, I am going to have the get the remaining threaded portion out in situ. My options are limited but I think they are either drill out the remaining as close to the thread as possible and then using a small "pointy thing" to hook out the residual and run a tap through, or to use a junior hacksaw blade and saw through the thread in a couple of places, and break it out. Either way, I am concious of having swarf dropping into the cooling system. Has anyone experienced this problem, or got any better ideas on removing this threaded portion of the valve. Many thanks in anticipation for any replies Andy C. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Hi Andy, you can do as you say. If you stuff some rag/paper down the hole before you start drill and vacuum afterwards you should get all the swarf out. Or, why not remove the elbow - remove the head nut. I would have thought the stud would be clear. And then fit one of these - http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Everco-Heater-Control-Valve/_/N-91sh0?itemIdentifier=135681&_requestid=7124741 Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyC 4A Posted February 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Thanks Roger, have drilled it out and all is well, sometimes its about having the confidence to do these things, and your reply certainly helped. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeF Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Interesting Roger. The standard valve is annoying as its an all or nothing and in any case is likely not to really shut unless operated directly by hand. So I was thinking that these problems could possibly be alleviated by moving the cable end fixing on the valve further out (away from the centre of the valve) thus giving a better mechanical advantage. Thoughts? Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Hi Mike, if you extend the operating arm then you will need more length on the cable/knob - not sure if the dash board end will allow this. The original valve just simply needs throwing away. The one above is excellent if you can get it (none in the UK). The Revington one has the same body as above but does not connect direct into the head - bit of a bodge to me. I made my own from a plumbing service valve that works perfectly. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 NLG and I have fitted these and can confirm they are very good and push pull, light as a feather. Regards Harry TR5 Nutter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trevor Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 HEATER CONTROL VALVE FOR CLASSIC CAR / LONDON TAXI TX1 KIT CARS BRAND NEW HA4008 ( 330783715353 ) ddmtechnik30931Feedback percentage of99.9% 58 sold Delete item Add note Or try this one recommended by Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Hi All, Does anyone have a nice elegant way of fastening the existing temp control-cable to the pin of the movable arm of these replacement valves? thanks, Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Hi Roger. I was driving around in the sun today, and I couldn't get the heater valve to shut properly, and I thought "I must look up that valve Roger always mentions", and lo and behold this thread was open again. Does that new valve screw directly into the existing opening, or do I need various adaptors? Regards Dave ==== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Hi All, Does anyone have a nice elegant way of fastening the existing temp control-cable to the pin of the movable arm of these replacement valves? thanks, Andy Use a pair of snipe nose pliers to form a loop in the end of the cable. No other fixing necessary once the outer is clamped. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Hi Dave, the Everco valve is a direct fit. Somehow you need to order it from the US. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Andy, hope the attached pics help. I found a piece of aluminium rod in my junk, drilled and tapped one end to take a set screw to lock on to the heater cable and drilled a hole to sit on the pin. The gizmo rotates nicely on the pin when the control is operated and since the cable sheath is securely clamped it can never ride up and off the pin. Works fine. I bought my valve from an Autozone store when last in the US, Feb 2015, it was $24.83 - might be a little more now. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Hi Pete and Tim, thanks for the replies and pictures - the kind of fastening i had in mind was like Tim's one, i thought people may have found a ready-made one rather than something i make up from odds and ends - but that looks a nice solution. I didn't think that the cable would stay wrapped around the pin on its own - however it is only the last 2-3 inches which actually moves so i may try the simple approach first! Prices have gone up a little - mine was $49 from AutoZone last week while i was on holiday in the US, it was delivered to my hotel for free though thanks, Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 I have seen these on eBayUK... same sort of price in $ but an additional $16 for international shipping. Search for "Four Seasons 74648 Heater Valve" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted May 22, 2016 Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 Pete's way is certainly quickest and simplest. The only possible drawback I see is that you have only one chance to get the inner cable length just right. My way you can fine tune it to give full valve movement, just as with the original trunnion arrangement. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted May 22, 2016 Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 If your cable is standard you'll have no problem. It's easy enough to remove a bit of the outer if really necessary. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 I bought one of Roger's recommended valves from the US. Cost about £30, arrived pretty quickly. Fitted it yesterday, took about 5 minutes, using the Pete pliers method. It opens and closes properly with no effort. Excellent. Dave ==== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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